38 SUPER and 9MM bullet lead bullet questions

[earplug]

Many of us have cast and shoot straight case revolver rounds such as 38 spl, 357 MAG. generally there is no issue.
Cast 9MM Luger seems to give a lot of grief compared to other pistol rounds. I'm thinking the tapered case is causing undersized bullets which is made worse with the higher operating pressure.
Is there anyone here who casts and loads both 9MM Luger and 38 Super? I'm curious if the straight case 38 Super is easier to cast and load and shoot with less leading.
I'm not interested in a discussion on alloy, gas checks, powder coating. Just curious if anyone who shoots cast lead in both rounds has noticed much difference.

 

[dgod]

Yes I do, and no I haven't... Mine are just plinking, entertainment only.

 

[cfullgraf]

I've used commercially cast bullets in both 9mm and 38 Super with acceptable results. Like dgod, mine are just for general range shooting. Not competition or putting food on the table.

I have a 38 Super barrel that headspaced on the rim that shot 158 SWC, sized at .358", very well. But those bullets will not work with current barrels that headspace on the case mouth.

Last year I broke the casting gear again and bought new moulds for designed for 9mm (124 RN) and 38 Super (150 SWC). I do not anticipate any problems.

(I've been casting bullets for other cartridges and have not gotten to the 9mm or 38 Super yet)

 

[Hanshi]

The .38sup is easier for me but the 9mm isn't much of a problem or not enough to make a difference.

 

[reddog81]

I cast and load 9mm and 38 ACP (the precurser to 38 Super). The bullets, pressure and velocity are about the same so I'd guess the propensity to have a problems would be the same however there are a lot fewer 38 Super shooters out there. I'm not sure that really makes a difference, but the 9mm is a tapered case however most reloading dies treat it as a straight walled case and size any part that touches the sizer to the same diameter as the mouth. I'd guess that most people reloading 38 Super know more about reloading than the average newbie starting to reload 9mm and therefore have less problems.

I had leading issues in both 9mm and 38 special so I switched to powder coating. PC'ing cleared up the issues it's all I use now.

 

[ReloaderFred]

I cast for both calibers, along with many others, and have no problems with either of them.

Hope this helps.

Fred

 

[noylj]

There is no problem with either cartridge using lead bullets, other than so many try to use lead bullets that are too small in 9x19.
Slug your barrel. If alloy is less than 15 BHN, use a bullet AT LEAST 0.001" larger than actual groove diameter and if the alloy is 15BHN or higher, use a bullet AT LEAST 0.002" larger than actual groove diameter, as it will not compress/expand to obturate/seal the bore.
SAAMI Maximum Average Pressure:
35.0ksi for 9x19
36.5ksi for .38 Super

SAAMI specifications:
9x19
Bullets: 0.3525-0.3555"
Groove diameter: 0.355-0.359"
.38 Super
Bullets: 0.3500-0.3560"
Groove diameter: 0.355-0.359"

 

[GooseGestapo]

The problem is that many 9mm handguns have oversized bores. Berettas and Taurus are particularly notorious. My PT99 has a .3575" bore. Wants .358" bullets. My S&W's (performance center PPC9 limited's) want .357" bullets.
You need to use the largest bullet your gun will reliably chamber.
Also be sure you aren't swaging your bullets smaller by over crimping.
I shot a Springfield M1911 in .38Super for several years. It btw had a .3545" bore.
Colt bores could be as large as .359".
Go figure!

 

[rfwobbly]

My Kimber Target II in 38Sup slugged out at 0.355 so I use the same bullets in both 9mm and 38Sup. But most of my stuff hardly ever gets about 1180 fps.

 

[Paddy]

I've just started into 9mm lead casting and loading and it's been a challenge despite me going in armed with a good deal of specific knowledge that y'all are hinting at. Slugged my bore, reamed out my push through bullet die to make .358 bullets, bought a high quality custom no groove mold, hitek coated my bullets, custom cut my PTX insert to flare deeper and step the mouth ala M die, checked pulled bullets for swaging.

First try and heavy leading/coating deposits in bore. Gah! I thought I knew what I was doing!! Also getting lead slivers during loading, seemed due to seating die removing the flare and shaving bullets, but after hogging out the die a little on the lathe I'm still getting slivers and I can't figure it out! Doesn't make sense.

So, yeah, 9mm is a bitch.

 

[ReloaderFred]

I've just started into 9mm lead casting and loading and it's been a challenge despite me going in armed with a good deal of specific knowledge that y'all are hinting at. Slugged my bore, reamed out my push through bullet die to make .358 bullets, bought a high quality custom no groove mold, hitek coated my bullets, custom cut my PTX insert to flare deeper and step the mouth ala M die, checked pulled bullets for swaging.

First try and heavy leading/coating deposits in bore. Gah! I thought I knew what I was doing!! Also getting lead slivers during loading, seemed due to seating die removing the flare and shaving bullets, but after hogging out the die a little on the lathe I'm still getting slivers and I can't figure it out! Doesn't make sense.

So, yeah, 9mm is a bitch.

Are you seating and crimping at the same time? If so, the crimp is being applied while the bullet is still being seated. I prefer to add the crimp after the bullet is seated, in a separate station on my progressive press.

Another thing you can do is chamfer the inside of the case mouths. Just do a few to see if it stops the shaving, and if that cures it, the brass only has to be chamfered one time.

Hope this helps.

Fred