38spl load in 357 brass

[Katitmail]

I decided to not load 38spl anymore. Couple reasons:
1. Don't like to reset dies (and don't want to buy second set)
2. Don't like to clean carbon rings
3. Don't lose brass. Just ordered 1k of Starline and pretty sure it will be enough for me for a long time.

Question is.. Can I just use my 38spl load in 357 brass? Will this extra 1/6 inch affect anything?

 

[joneb]

Can I just use my 38spl load in 357 brass? Will this extra 1/6 inch affect anything?

Lets just say if your 38spl load is 3.8gr I might go to 4.0gr Extra space= less pressure. As always start low and work up.
This is assuming you are using powders and load data for 38spl.

 

[gamestalker]

I don't know what press you use, but I use a single stage, so making the adjustment from 38 spcl. to .357 takes just a couple minuets for me, no biggies at all.

Carbon rings never cause me any problems. If I were to run several hundred 38's, and then don't bother cleaning the cylinder, then yes, I can feel the .357's dragging on the carbon. But a quick scrub with solvent and bore brush after a range session solves the problem with very minimal effort.

Loading 38 spcl. into a .357 case is gonna produce lower pressures, no doubt about it. But that can be easily solved by bumping the charge up a bit to make up for the additional case volume of the magnum brass. This doesn't mean you positively can't use the 38 charge, but you won't get the same velocities as you would with 38 brass, it will be lower.

But more importantly, the 38 spcl charge could result in bullets getting stuck in the barrel, probably not, but more so a concern if using starting 38 spcl data, and depending on the bullets and powder involved.

GS

 

[Walkalong]

Yes you can, although in some instances you will need to up the powder charge .1 to .2 Grs.

Also, since you are loading .357 brass for use in .357 revolvers, you can always use +P .38 loads, or even hotter, to suit your taste. I guess that was obvious though.

I run lighter than max .38 Spl loads in .357 brass all the time. I have some in the range bag for today actually. 158s running at about 750 FPS from a 4" barrel.

So yes, you can run light .38 Spl loads in .357 brass, just make sure if you get real light the bullets are leaving the barrel at a reasonable speed. just like doing it in .38 Spl.

 

[243winxb]

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=607180 Position sensitive.

 

[tallpaul]

Well if you load on a dillon 550 or 650 a guy sells a toolhead that lets you use one toolhead for 38/357 or 44spl/44mag that uses a shim on top of or below the toolhead... takes 10 seconds to switch between the two... well ya need to swap out or adjust your powder bar also but takes care of most of your issue..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8RV9PSuKTI

 

[WestKentucky]

4.0 gr 231 under a 125 gr .357 cast (9mm bullet) works really well for me out of all 3 357s I have tried it in. My buntline, my buddies sp101 (he is now using that load a lot) and my dad is using that load in 38spl cases. In 38s it has a mild pop, in 357s it is like a 22

 

[Katitmail]

It's Dillon 650, I don't want to adjust anything (call me lazy)
I'm not even particularly after mild load. Just something more economical on powder and not full-house magnum.

I'm planning on using VV N320 for this. Will it be too fast?

Obviously I will chrono loads "up" and "down" to see if it's position-sensitive.
All I want is to have more economical/mild load with about the same POI as my magnum loads so I can shoot it more and damage my gun less.

Did anybody try coated bullets from Missouri Bullet?

 

[ATLDave]

I found that I had to bump up powder charges just a touch when I started making .357 wadcutter target rounds.

 

[Jim Watson]

I don't have that particular combination, but if I did, I would refer to the manual and use a maximum Special load in Magnum brass as a jumping off point. Adjust according to velocity or recoil.

 

[243winxb]

I'm planning on using VV N320 for this. Will it be too fast?

N320

A comparatively fast burning multipurpose handgun powder with burning rate about the same as Winchester 231 or Alliant Red Dot. Currently available reloading data for 9 mm Luger, .38 Super Auto, .38 Special, .357 Magnum, .40 S&W, .44 S&W Special, .44 Remington Magnum, .45 ACP and .45 Colt.

Looking at the data http://www.vihtavuori.com/en/reloading-data/handgun-reloading/-357-magnum-.html and the starting loads, i think you could get into trouble real fast with N320 powder. Note how close the starting power charge is to the maximum. I have never used any VV powders

 

[Katitmail]

Thanks for the link! Actually, it's not bad. 6.2-6.6 and it's for 357

I use this powder for 9, 45acp, 9x18MAK and it's my "standard". Very clean burning and not temperature-sensitive. I wonder how it will do in a big 357 case "up" vs "down"

Recently I got couple lb of H110 for 357mag but I'm happy to see VV320 will work as I got plenty of it. H110 goes fast. I don't like to measure it either..

P.S. So, load for 158gr shows 6.2-6.6 and load for 38spl with 158gr same powder shows 3.9-4.6. Seems like I got BIG range I can play with. Will start at 5gr and see.

 

[243winxb]

yes, start inbetween 38spec maximum and 357 starting load, see what works in 357 mag brass.

 

[Sunray]

Been loading 2.7 of Bullseye with a 148 HBWC for eons. No adjustment to the load is required. Just load 'em.
It's 1/10" not 1/6" too. Still doesn't matter.

 

[buck460XVR]

Question is.. Can I just use my 38spl load in 357 brass? Will this extra 1/6 inch affect anything?

Why not just find published .357 loads that are equal to the performance of your present .38 special loads? The info is out there, either in the reloading manuals you should own or online sources such as powder manufacturer web sites. I have never shot a .38 case in any of my .357 revolvers, but have sent plenty of .357 loads downrange that were similar to .38s.

 

[mdi]

I have used .38 Special loads, right out of the book, in 357 brass. Velocities listed in the .38 load data will be higher than that achieved in .357 brass due to larger case capacity and resulting lower pressure in 357 brass...

Just because it says Magnum on the side of the barrel doesn't mean ya gotta shoot hot loads. I have some very pleasant loads for my .357 that I can soot mebbe twice as many as my "Magnum" loads without tiring my hands...

 

[375supermag]

Hi...

I never shoot .38spl cases in my .357Mag revolvers. It is pretty easy to build a .38Spl load in a .357Mag case.

I reserve all .38Spl loads in .38Spl brass for my .38Spl revolvers.

I don't shoot .44Spl in my .44Mag revolvers, either.

 

[Catpop]

I read somewhere on this forum earlier to just use 357 cases, 38 spa data, and seat the bullet to 38 spa oal. Now you have a 38 spc in a 357 case, no danger of stuck bullets in barrel, and no carbon ring. Sounds good to me BUT I confess I have NOT tried it yet.
I have a Dillon SD. Is there a spacer for that to change back and forth?
TX Cat pop

 

[1911Tuner]

A very good "lite" load in .357 brass is 6.0 grains Unique pushing a 155-160 grain cast or swaged lead bullet. Easy on the gun without a sense of wimpiness and accurate enough for any reasonable field use.

 

[Walkalong]

I wonder how it will do in a big 357 case "up" vs "down"

it's generally a bit more position sensitive than most of the flake and flattened ball powders, but not too bad. Great powder.

 

[MEHavey]

A Saeco mold 158gr L/TC seated at the crimp groove loaded with 3.8gr VV320 and fired from a 5" barrel:
38Special case
857fps/17,000psi (+P territory)


Same bullet seated at same crimp groove loaded w/ same powder & weight in a
357Mag case:
817fps/14,000psi

 

[Jim Watson]

I shouldn't do this, what with New Year's Resolutions to be Nice, but whattheheck...

It's 1/10" not 1/6" too. Still doesn't matter.

Uh, no it isn't.
It isn't 1/8", either; it is .135".
Does it matter yet? About as much as the difference between a "clip" and a "magazine."

 

[mdi]

I read somewhere on this forum earlier to just use 357 cases, 38 spa data, and seat the bullet to 38 spa oal. Now you have a 38 spc in a 357 case, no danger of stuck bullets in barrel, and no carbon ring. Sounds good to me BUT I confess I have NOT tried it yet

.


I surely wouldn't. FWIW I seated all my .38/.357 bullets to the cannalure/crimp groove for mebbe 10 years before I measured OAL (I started reloading "pre-web" so I didn't know I was "sposed ta" have a specific OAL for my revolver ctgs.). I have gone as low as 2.8 gr. Bullseye under a 150 gr. DEWC for shooting in a 4" .357, no stuck bullets. The difference when using .38 Special data in .357 brass is the pressures/velocity will be less than listed in the .38 data due to larger case capacity/lower pressures. No need to bother with "38 Special OAL in .357 Mag. brass"...

 

[IWAC]

You can load .38 Special loads in 357 brass (for use in .357 revolvers only) with complete satisfaction. That's what my brother-in-law calls "hot .38-mild Magnum loads", and they have worked fine in my 357s for 40 years!

From a reputable manual, I take the maximum load from .38 or .38 +P, data, and add 5-10% to compensate for the extra powder space in the larger cartridge.(AND..add a bit more "snap", eh!) I use bulky powders, Unique, Clays, and 2400, because the bulk gives me a good visual check of a low or double charge, with never a position problem, and should would work fine with less-bulky powders.

But, as always, work up carefully! We don't need headlines like: "Irresponsible Handloader Blows Self into 1,000 Smoking, Quivering Pieces...Film at 11!

At the +10% level, some powders approach the old 38-44 loads, and are still below the beginning loads for the .357 Magnum, are more fun to shoot than "full-house "Blue Whistlers", And are adequate for any reasonable purpose. You "need" more "horses"? Pour in a little more "hay"!

BTW...that is what the cannelure or crimping groove is ...a place to crimp the case, so you will be near the suggested OAL. My revolver will take up to 1.62 in. OAL cartridges, and I haven't seen any negative effects from shorter lengths. (We all have set the seater too short, right?) Veral Smith, the inventor(?) of LBT bullets opines the longer length supports the cartridge in the chamber better, giving improved accuracy. Me, I'll stick to the old 1.590 in, whenever there isn't a cannelure or crimp groove. Again; seat...Uhmmm...suit yourself!