45 ACP reloading help

[Judah Ben-Hur]

I just loaded up 50 45 ACP's with a 200 gr. SWC bullet with Bullseye powder. Starting loads with .1 gr increments. I was cleaning up the wax residue from them and noticed that the lead is stacked up on one side on alot of the rounds. It almost blends into the case that it has me wondering if it could effect the headspacing on the mouth. I have only loaded probably 100 of these in the past but never noticed it or had problems with feeding or shooting. I'm using a 3 die RCBS set with bullet seating and crimping in the same step. They are Meister bullets with roughly a .468-.471 crimp. Didn't notice anything abnormal with the seating/crimping die.

I tried taking pictures but they get too fuzzy trying to see that much detail.

Has anybody else had this problem and what were your fixes?

 

[frankt]

If I understand you correctly, you have a smear of lead on the outside of some of the cases. Sometimes they are still connected to the lead bullet?

This is usually caused by not expanding the case mouth quite enough to accept the base of the lead bullet. When you seat the bullet it cuts off and smashes a bit of lead down the side of the case.

I have heard this can cause feeding and headspacing problems but it is not something that I have experience with it.

You can probably take a sharp knife and scrape it clean and then rub the junction of the case and bullet with a piece of scotch brite or coarse steel wool.

 

[Plainmark]

Lead woes

I reload .45 with lubed/lead and HAD the same problem. It did, in fact, mess up my chamber... hours with a dental pic and a bright light and a 5x magnifier..

No More... 1: changed the case flare about .002 larger
2: seat only in one stroke
3: purchased a Lee factory crimp die
4: ended leading just like that.. no sheared lead in the cone!

Plain

 

[Judah Ben-Hur]

The lead is above the case mouth and smoothed out and covers anywhere from 1/8 to 3/8's around the round. It is not loose at all.

I thought about the crimping step being done by itself. I belled the cases just enough to have the bullet sit in there by itself without much fuss. They have a cone on the bottom so it made it easier than other calibers I've loaded for. I forgot to mention that they are loaded to 1.250 and was thinking that maybe they could be seated a little deeper.

I have another 50 ready to go but might try belling the case a little more and see what happens until I find another die. On a side note, the Bullseye doesn't meter to well in my Redding dispenser. It varies .5 with every throw. :banghead: Might try Clays next time.

 

[Jim Watson]

Get a separate taper crimp die and back off the seater so all it does is seat the bullet.

If that does not fix it, flare the case until you quit scraping up lead. If it goes in the seating die it is not flared too much. Actually I once had an RCBS seating die that was so small that you could not start a case with cast bullet and enough flare. You might need a new seating die, too. I have no such trouble out of Lyman or Dillon. Quit worrying about making brass last longer, you will likely lose it before it wears out.

A .5 grain variation in a charge of Bullseye is way too much. I have an old Redding No 3 Master and never could get decent pistol loads out of it, even with the small cylinder. A RCBS Uniflo small cylinder or Redding 10X will do a lot better. Clays is a large flake powder and is unlikely to meter better. You might try a Ball powder like W231.

 

[JackOfAllTradesMasterAtNone]

In a nut shell...

Or in a .45 case...

"Get a separate taper crimp die and back off the seater so all it does is seat the bullet." -This isn't a bad idea, but not neccessary. Setting the seat/crimp die properly will void this.

"flare the case until you quit scraping up lead. If it goes in the seating die it is not flared too much." -I can't disagree.

"seat only in one stroke" YUP, with a seat/taper crimp die, this is one action.

"A RCBS Uniflo" !!!

Or, get a Dillon powder measure with a funnel for .45acp. Mount it in a standard RCBS Powder measure support and keep using the Bullseye.

Sure, I use a Dillon press, 2 RCBS dies on it, (size, seat) and the D' Powder measure with the powder funnel/case mouth expander. My Bullseye throws vary .1gn -if that.

-Steve

 

[Judah Ben-Hur]

I'm ordering a crimp die & RCBS powder dispenser with handgun & rifle drums later today. The Bullseye had every one weighed so I know what is in there but I hate powders that force you to do that.

 

[LAH]

I use Bullseye with my Dillon Measure and the Lyman 55. In a word, it meters very well.

 

[Canuck-IL]

I'd suggest you pull all your dies and start with a fresh setup...properly belled mouths won't tear up the bullet, BE meters very well from every throw I've ever seen (under .1 from a Hornady) and you can seat and crimp in one step but it's more fiddling aorund with the die setup than it's worth...and you get to redo it every time you change bullets...seat only and get a Lee FCD.

Clays will definitely meter more poorly than BE.
/Bryan

 

[Sunray]

Clean your dies. Sounds like you have lube build up in them. Taper crimp only for .45's. Mind you, it's not a measurable thing. I set taper crimp die to seat and crimp in one step with no fuss.
"...It varies..." Clean your thrower too. I've used Bullseye for eons with no fuss either. Mind you, I'm not using a Redding thrower. Plastic?

 

[ball3006]

Soundl like your die....

needs adjusting. It is starting to crimp before the bullet is seated. As stated above. just use your die to seat the bullet then crimp with a Lee taper crimp die. chris3

 

[Khornet]

There is a technique

to using powder measures. You should throw 40-50 charges, dumping the powder back in the hopper, before you start charging cases. Then, the way you throw the lever makes a big difference. There's no one right way, but you should do it the same way with every throw.

 

[robctwo]

I'm using Clays in my Hornady LocknLoad powder dispensor. It meters great and I like the loads. I have a progressive press with auto index, so little chance of double charging. That can be a problem with fast powders and large cases.

My most recent loads have been with the Oregon Laser Cast bullets. They have a green lube. Belling the case mouth a bit more than with plated or jacketed is a must. I use the RCBS die for seating the bullet, and the Lee Factory Crimp die for crimping. Works great, chambers well. 1.24 or a little less has been working for me with the 225 gr TC. The 200 gr SWC I set to give a thumbnail or two (thickness not width) of shoulder abouve the case rim.

 

[Reed1911]

For about 99% of the spherical powders out there and in all of the powder measures I've ever used (hand op. type) I have found that the least tedious and most effective method is #1 make sure you have a baffle, if your measure didn't come with one buy or make one. It will keep the weight of the powder even no matter the amount of powder you have above it. (within reason) #2 after you fill the hopper, tap the top or side of it 20-30 times to settle the powder, you'll see a serious drop in the level as the powder settles down upon itself. #3 when charging the case I've always gone full-open to the powder (tap) against the stop, halfway to the drop point, back to full-open to the powder (tap) against the stop, then full open to the case to be charged. You get into a rythem pretty quick, tap,tap,drop (next case) tap,tap,drop. Works really well for me when I'm loading personel loads or small batches of ammo.

 

[Car Knocker]

Good tips, Ron!

When tapping the powder measure to settle the powder, I'd suggest that the metal body of the measure be tapped rather than the plastic reservoir. Some of that plastic can be a little on the delicate side.

I happen to use the same tap, tap, drop, rythem myself when hand charging cases. My drop is a little authoritative also to ensure that all the powder in the cavity makes it out.

 

[Judah Ben-Hur]

All the powder dispenser has written on it is Redding - Hunter, Cortland, NY. It looks the same as the ones on their website but I know it has been around since the 70's. Always sat in the same spot in the reloading room. I always use the same method when using it. When it is brought to the top of the arc,it is done with authority and same motion. By doing so, the powder is always settled to some degree. It is filled to the top, then I go about throwing charges and making adjustments to get it were I want. I haven't used a baffle with it, don't know if it ever had one. I'm sure one could be made pretty easy. Maybe that is the missing ingredient. It is my Father's equipment and he usually played more with the rifle loads more than than the pistols. I always weigh every load, no matter what powder is being used. I even do it for the Accurate Arms powders, which are usually dead on. I got in the habit when loading 800X for 10MM, it is the worst and all over the map.

Thanks for all the replies, the other stuff should make things right. Might just add a baffle to the order.

 

[Sport45]

Use the advice given for your next loading batch. For the ones you've identified as having lead smeared down the side be sure to remove it before yuo shoot it.

You can probably take a sharp knife and scrape it clean and then rub the junction of the case and bullet with a piece of scotch brite or coarse steel wool.

This will work, but you really don't need to do the steel wool part. Just get the lead off the side of the case. If you don't it will be ironed on to the side of the chamber and will cause a lot of grief in the future.

I reload .45 with lubed/lead and HAD the same problem. It did, in fact, mess up my chamber... hours with a dental pic and a bright light and a 5x magnifier..

Been there, done that. Except mine was a .38 revolver cylinder that had lead ironed on to the side. Had to scrape it out with an empty .357mag case belled to the chamber diameter.

Good luck and have fun!