6.5 CM w/Starline Brass data.

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Blue68f100

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A while back I asked if any were using Starline Rifle brass and how it was working for you. Since I had to return the 200 rounds of Defective Lapua Brass I gave the Starling a go.

I orded 250 6.5 CM Brass with the Small Rifle Primers to test with. Upon arrival I did some quick inspection to see if it meets the standard we have come to love in the pistol brass. The first thing when you open the box it as sheet telling you that you must size the brass. They have put a tarnish inhibitor on the brass after the final cleaning. So you have no idea as to weather these were annealed or not. All the brass was within ±0.001" in length. The shoulder were pushed back to min and maybe just below depending on what your using to measure it. I do not have case gauge for the 6.5 CM, just a simple collar I use for checking position during sizing. Using this gauge all were within a 0.001" of each other. I did a some random checks on 5 pieces for weight, length, volume, wall thickness.

New Starline Brass in 6.5 CM (SRP) Sized with Redding S die w/.288 bushing
Weight was measured by GemPro 250 scales.
OD and ID with my caliper, ID confirmed with pin gauges.

Dry Weight Length H2O Wt OD x ID = Wall
Grains Inches in Grains inches


1 162.24 1.910 51.44 .2885 x .261 = 0.01375
2 163.72 1.912 51.22 .2880 x .260 = 0.014
3 161.82 1.909 51.32 .2885 x .261 = 0.01375
4 163.56 1.911 51.14 .2885 x .261 = 0.014
5 163.20 1.912 51.14 .2885 x .261 = 0.01375
av 162.91 1.9108 51.25

1.16 % Max 0.583 % Max


The bullets I'm using are Sierra's that I got a great buy on last year. I used the Hex Nut Comparator to measure the ogive reference to see what small differences I was going to have between the GK and MK bullets. Normally I find they work well with the same charge. Yet to be determined if this is the case with these bullets.

Sierra 130gr TMK 1.364” L 1.713" = 0.349” distance above
Sierra 130gr HPBT GK 1.195” L 1.737" = 0.542” distance above
0.169” L 0.024” difference in Jump

I did a load workup with RL-17 and Varget. RL-17 I'm still fine tuning on it.

The gun used is a 6.5CM AR that I built. The barrel is from E. Author Brown, 24" Long Range Premium 24" SS Heavy barrel with a 1:8 twist. The barrel extension was nothing but sharp edges every were. If you stuck you finger in and dragged it out it would cut you, it was that bad. I spent 2 hrs dehorned it, still got one place I need to address on brass ejection, snake bite marks. Did not like the way the crown looked but it appears to fine, not the sharp target crown I like. The scope I robbed from my AR-15 heavy barrel Varmint gun that was sporting a Nightforce 8x32 Bench scope. Will be ordering another scope once funds come available for this rifle.
6.5CM AR.jpg

This is the Varget workup, with Sierra recommended OAL of 2.810"
Now the original OAL 2.810" was used per Sierra recommendation. This was a reading of 0.101" on my Redding seating die. I used up 1 box (100) of bullets before getting into a different lot (500). The new lot measured 0.010" longer than the first at the same setting. I did not change my seating die since the ogive was the same as the original. 3 rounds each/ load. I had shot some others to put some heat in the barrel, so it was not cold.

Temp 52F
Wind 10 mph @ 1:00
My home range is fairly protected from a N wind. My range is only 97 yrds long measured by laser range finder. I do have to deal with a heat mirage due to a drop in elevation (~8 deg) to my target. Can be a major pain at times.
Shooting bench with a Lead Sled.

All rounds were hand feed, no magazine. So damage due to feeding is eliminated. Will test that later on. 1 min between 3 shots, 5 min between groups.

CE Crony 15yrds from muzzle. BT to phone
Sierra listed Max at 38.8gr with Varget.

Ladder.jpg

Then I started fine tuning with the OAL. This is where we get a lot of inquires on tuning a load. And is the main reason I'm posting this information. To show OAL does make a difference.

Test Conditions:
62F
5-10 mph wind from the same direction N @ 1:00

1 min between shoot of 5, then a 5 min cool down while I load 5 more rounds.
+ 0.005 only 5 shots
-0.015 only 5 shots

Bullet Jump.jpg
They powder was dispensed using a RCBS ChargeMaster 1500. If a load went over I dumped it back and rerun. Don't know why the ES spread was higher this time, but it does not appear to have hinder the results. Beside I will take a high ES any day as long as whats on paper is consistent. I should add I'm shooting with a wrist splint on my right hand (trigger hand) during this test. So I may have something to do with it.

Sadly I did not record and of the quick checks on the Lapua brass. Mainly because I was not planning on using anything else. And there brass is really consistent.
 
Have an update for this thread on the Starline brass.

Here is the confirmation on the above load with Varget. Had better wind conditions when I shot these. I also had made a break for the barrel and fluted it to lighten it up some. 10 flutes, 7/64" radius. This improved the balance of gun, not near as nose heavy.
Break and Flutted barrel.jpg

Note : Bullseye is 1/2" with the inner ring 1"

5 shots with the one dreaded flier #4

6.5CM 38.4gr Varget 130gr TMK.jpg

I've shot over 200 rounds and started process the brass. What I have found is interesting.

With the new brass all had a length of 1.910 ±0.001" . With the brass cleaned, sized by moving the shoulder back ~0.003" - 0.004" using a Redding Type S sizing die. The brass is now 1.905" -0.001", 0.005" shorter than the recommended trim length. So I started checking new to once fired/sized brass. What I found is the body grew 0.003" at base and just below the shoulder through all that I checked, 20+. It may be 2 firings before the brass needs to be trimmed.

I tested some of the Hornady 140gr ELD-Match bullets with H4350 using some 308w Brass that was resized down to 6.5CM. Necks were turned to give me 0.015" thickness. This was the first loads I tested, What it told me is I need to keep going up

Same target as before 1/2" BE
Load, velocity and ES and SD on target
6.5cm H4350 308w:6.5.jpg
 
I've been working up a load for my Browning X-bolt 6.5 CM for a while. I've been using Hornady brass which came from a mix of 140 gr AMAX and 140 gr ELD-M factory ammo.

I've treated the brass well; cleaned, annealed etc. but I noticed that even when I'm not in test mode, the groups I observed were not all that great considering what I'm hoping for. Let's say MOA. In any event, I planned to use the brass to learn the load, then replace it with something a bit higher up the food chain.

I ordered 100 pieces of Starline with the large rifle primer pockets as I don't really want to mess with small rifle primers right now. On my last range session which was for one "last" load development test, in addition to the ladder test Hornady brass, I neck sized 10 rounds of the Starline brass and loaded them with 41.8 gr of H4350, a load that made itself more or less obvious from previous trials. I seated 5 rounds 0.050 off the lands as that's what the rifle seemed to like up to now, and 5 rounds 0.010 OTL just because I could.

So, the test went well, no groups worth mentioning but, the Magnetospeed was strapped on so, who knows?

Then I launched the Starline rounds; oh my! I'm not easily duped by the occasional nice 5-shot group, but two in a row, that gets my attention. Both groups in the .3 moa range. This is how I expected the rifle to shoot. I still shake my head and ask, can brass really make a significant difference? I'm thinking yes right now.

First target 0.010 OTL, second 0.050 OTL.

10 OTL.jpg 50 OTL.jpg
 
Brass plays a bigger part than most think in rifles. It's all about consistency in Volume and Neck Tension. I prefer Lapua brass for my benchrest BE loads. If you remember I had to send my Lapua brass back due to a bunch of defects that showed up after cleaning them the first time. I also include annealing as part as my brass prep.

I'm limited to the magazine length in my AR-10 unless I want to hand feed them. I do hand feed most of the time while I testing. This gives the barrel a little more cooling time between shots.

Your in the range where most find a node. I'm working my way up to 42gr ball park. My velocities were low too.
 
FYI, I found heavier bolt lift at 42.3 gr H4350, 42.5 gr was heavy bolt lift and ejector pin marks on the brass, velocity was right around 2870 for both charges. I consider 42.1 my maximum load in this rifle.

Your point about consistency and neck tension is a good one. I measure about 0.015 tension with my Lee FL die bumping the shoulder back about 0.002. I have a Redding Type S FL die and .293 bushing inbound which should get me more consistency and about 0.001 neck tension.

What I don't know about this Starline (or any) brass is the difference between new brass and fired brass in terms of "grab" on the bullet; even if they both have the same size-measured neck tension, who knows what the carbon film inside the neck will do to the frictional component of "grab". I plan to find out later this week, I'll load the 10 rounds I already fired and 10 new ones.
 
Neck tension should increase as the brass work hardens. The powder residue works as a lubricant. The big difference is that I found the new brass to be over sized, 0.004" neck tension was high. I used a expander to enlarge the necks, then resized using the proper size bushing. The expander is a die/tool used in preparing the brass for neck turning. My prep is different than yours. I wet clean with SS pins, anneal, size, trim if needed. With annealed necks the brass is soft and you get very little spring back.
 
Neck tension should increase as the brass work hardens. The powder residue works as a lubricant. The big difference is that I found the new brass to be over sized, 0.004" neck tension was high. I used a expander to enlarge the necks, then resized using the proper size bushing. The expander is a die/tool used in preparing the brass for neck turning. My prep is different than yours. I wet clean with SS pins, anneal, size, trim if needed. With annealed necks the brass is soft and you get very little spring back.

You say the brass is over sized, then said you used an expander to enlarge them, I'm puzzled, did you mean to say the brass is under sized?

Sorry for the dumb question, I'm still trying to get a handle on the finer nuances of precision reloading.
 
Oversized as in necked down too much. Necks sized more than needed and the neck tension is very tight.
 
I'm using Rem 7 1/2 BR primers. I bought the SP brass so I could use the same as I do for my 223R. Since mine is as AR I could use the #41 but so far have not tried them. I will at one point to see how it changes the load.

Walkalong is correct. All my brass had 0.004" tension.
 
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