With all respect, that Lyman book will answer your questions. Also look for "ABC's of Reloading" - it's available at most bookstores. The rest of the question regarding loads/primers/brass - not to "cop-out", but that's really up to you and your rifle - it's a big reason we hand load in the first place. What types of which items is either dictated under the "6.5x55 Swedish" loads in your lyman book, or shown for other brands in other books. Also check out the Hodgdon website (also handles IMR and Winchester powders/various bullets), Accurate Arms and Alliant Powders. All their websites have free load information - but remember to NEVER go above their listed Max, and (especially starting out), DON'T mix components around.
Also, with 6.5x55 specifically, there are TWO types of loads - Commercial and Military. If you own a Milsurp Mauser (M96, M94, M38, etc) or a Krag 6.5x55, keep it to Military loads ONLY. Be even more wary if you have a Krag action - they aren't as strong as a Mauser action, so you may be even more limited to your "max" loads. AS always - Your Rifle, not The book, will dictate what the "max load" is. Some rifles show pressure/max signs before the book indicates a max load - go with your rifle's opinion on the matter.
In short, the Lee Loader isn't bad to do the most basic steps of reloading - but there's no way to really be 100% sure of your powder charges (which are a good portion of getting good accuracy) and there's no way to maintain your brass as you go along. The Scale for measuring powder charges should be mandatory, and it would be wise to invest in brass prepping/cleaning items as well. Not to mention, the Lee Loader only sizes the neck - eventually you'll want to resize the whole body, and that needs a press and dies.
So, if you want very limited and simple, go for the Lee Loader. But to do reloading RIGHT, it's quite an investment. YMMV.