642 Club Part Deux

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Dialed in

Zeroed the CT 405's on my new 642-1 today. Put a cylinder full of Federal 158g +P into 1 small ragged hole in the X-ring with a two hand hold @ 5 yds. I found the weapon to be accurate with this ammo with iron sights, but the Lasergrips allow you to realize it's full potential, especially with my old eyes. It may very well be, as Jim Supica states, "the finest pocket revolver ever made". Now it's a matter of honing my SD skills with this weapon. This is my 1st post---I enjoy poking around the clubhouse a lot................widowmaker
 
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Widowmaker

Thanks for poking around. There certainly is a lot to poke!

Let me be the first to welcome you to the fold and that is some pretty durn good shootin.

Thanks for stopping in and we look forward to hearing from you often.
 
Discoloration of front of cylinder near chambers

Hello! New 442-2 owner here.

I've had my 442 for a few weeks and have recently noticed a bit of funny discoloration on the front of the cylinder surrounding each of the chambers. The only cleaners I've used have been Hoppe's No. 9, Break Free CLP, and Remmington Gun Oil. A toothbrush has been used when scrubbing this area.

Does anyone else's 442 have this? Any ideas?
 

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Going to range - finally.

Have had my 642 for 2 months and just now taking a shooting lesson, so am going to the range tomorrow. This is my first handgun shooting ever. Cross your fingers for me. Forgot to ask if they had a k-frame I could try first but will ask that when I get there. Have done so much dry firing (with snap caps) that the trigger is as easy as pie after being VERY stiff. Is that normal?
 
Welcome to the fun house, Brian, both THR and the club.

No idea re the discoloration. I'll let others address that.

Lagniappe, good luck tomorrow. Let us know how things went. Hold on tight!

And yes, dry firing will smooth it out. That's why we recommend doing it so much.
 
I can't tell from the pictures, but it looks like it's just powder residue. All revolvers get it. Some scrub it off others just wipe the gun down and leave the marks. I'm a member of the latter group. It should not be anything to worry about.
 
It is a combination of carbon/powder residue and lead build up. Don't let it accumulate to the point that it interfers with cylinder rotation. Use a nylon or brass brush and solvent; there is also a product called Lead Away (I think it is) that is a cloth impregnated with a lead solvent. Check your cylinder to forcing cone gap if you think the build up is excessive. Your gap should be .002-3; any more and you will get too much gas leakage, any less and you will be susceptible to cylinder binding.
 
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about that BC gap

308win: I don't think you will find any S&W production revolver with a BC gap of .002-.003; typically, I have found them to be a minimum of .005 or more.

That includes the airweight 38 Special frames, the 357 SS frames, and the 357 Scandium frames.

I believe the allowable factory max may even be up to 0.012.

As for the cylinder face leading--yes, Lead-away or equivalent cloths will remove that residue. Be sure to work on the cylinder face only--and that is best done by removing the cylinder.

Jim H.
 
Welcome Brian.

What your are seeing is normal accumulation of:

308 says.
It is a combination of carbon/powder residue and lead build up.

Here is a comment by Kleen-Bore on the use of their product.

Kleen-Bore Lead Away Gun Cloth
- 10 Pack
This chemically treated cloth is ideal for removing tough lead and carbon build-up. Excellent for removing burn rings on cylinders and on stainless steel. Over 100 square inch cloth. Caution: excessive rubbing may remove bluing.

It requires some care and tenacity to elbow it off, and Kleen Bore cloths will help the process, just localize the use to the cylinder face, the is particularly true with blued pistols.
 
a BC gap of .002-.003; typically, I have found them to be a minimum of .005 or more.... I believe the allowable factory max may even be up to 0.012.

.02-3 may be too tight and .05-6 may be the correct clearance; if the gap is .12 you have a problem.

Hmm. Somebody's misplacing a decimal point. :scrutiny:

Let's set this straight for the archives.

Are we talking 100ths or 1000ths?
 
Thanks for the info on the discoloration.

Upon closer inspection, it almost looks as if the dark color is wearing off in those areas, but it may just be lead/powder accumulation as you said.
 
Back from the range

I DID it! Fired my 642. Was just sure I would do some stupid or awful thing. But took a lesson and fired both my 642 and an OLD 22 revolver.

I have never fired a handgun and had so much fear and tension that I got tired pretty fast so I only fired 23 rounds in the 642. (I had instructor fire the first 2 rounds...)

Had a target with a silhouette - this one: http://www.letargets.com/estylez_item.aspx?item=CA-I(06B) so it was VERY big - uh life size.

Now I know that this only means something if I could tell you the distance. I think I recall he said our distance was 10 to 12 feet. I do know the 9 marker on the ceiling was closer than my target by a bit.

All 25 shots were in the light gray except one on the line - think if it had been a real person it would have hit him right under the arm maybe....

I measured it out and 24 of the shots were in an area 8x9inches with 19 of them inside 7"x7". Not marksmanship by any means but I was pleased - partly because I had been so apprehensive. (now I'm sure my instructor's 2 were among the ones in the 7x7.) Generally looks like all above the waist and most below armpit level. Will see if I can take a photo and if so will post later.

Also shot a VERY OLD 22 revolver. Didn't do much with it. Couldn't seem to hold it steady and it wouldn't really eject the casings afterwards. More trouble than it's worth. I think of the 8 rounds fired on a different silhouette target 6 were in score 5 and 2 in score 2 (but close to the line for the 5). My instructor might have fired one or 2 shots from it. It was giving us some trouble.

Anyway, I'm pleased for a first outing! Jubilant in fact!!!! And looking forward to going again and shooting the 642. Also pondering a nice little 22LR as similar as possible to my 642 just for fun stuff.... Recommendations anyone?

Sorry to be so wordy, just SO EXCITED! Now I have to learn to actually place my shots, not merely survive the experience!
 
congratulations, lagniappe!

To shoot a lightweight--even, presumably, with standard pressure loads--in your first time out shooting is adventurous, IMO. Or, perhaps, ignorance is bliss (and I do NOT mean that derogatorily). You apparently had no great preconceptions to bind you up, just pre-event apprehension.

So, shoot some more, and get going on finding the right .22LR revolver. Depending on budget constraints, I think you should look into a S&W 63. In its current configuration, it ships with a 5" barrel. You might be able to find a used one with a 4" barrel, I think. Since the 63 is a j-frame, you'll feel right at home, and since it is SS, you can get a heavier firearm and even start working on marksmanship skills as well as self-defense skills.

Just keep going.

Jim H.
 
Congrats, Lagni. That's great news. Welcome to the world of handguns (officially now).

It'll get easier from here by far. If you aren't going to pocket carry, consider putting a set of Hogue Monogrips on it (I have them on mine), which will significantly improve your control, and therefore, confidence.

[B said:
Jim[/B]]I think you should look into a S&W 63.

Well, darn, now you've got me interested in one of those. I'd never even heard of them until now. Here's SW page on it. Here's Jeff Quinn's review. He's excited to see it back, and writes this: "The new Model 63 is reliable, accurate, durable, beautiful, and is probably the best little double action rimfire trail revolver currently made."

I'm coming into a market for a .22 revolver. That one could work nicely. (Also considering the Ruger Single Six, which are very sweet.)
 
That's Great

I DID it! Fired my 642. Was just sure I would do some stupid or awful thing.

Anyway, I'm pleased for a first outing! Jubilant in fact!!!! And looking forward to going again and shooting the 642.

You are now hooked. :evil: You will want to go multiple times a week for weeks on end, because each time you go, your proficiency will ramp up.

That first time is like a blur. Each time you go henceforth time will become more "normalized" and not fly by. Your enjoyment coefficient will go up to the point you will want to go again and again. :cool: Muwaahhhaa. Hey Pilgrim want to buy some cheap range time and ball ammo..? ;)

If you still have the factory boot grips, get rid of those and get some Hogue Bantams or Monogrips.
Monogrips are great to start with and depending on how you plan to carry you may want to stick with them.
I know jt1 really likes the Bantams for pocket or Smart Carry.
 
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642 aluminum vs steel

I have a aluminum 642 and like it. Just wondering if a steel gun kicks a lot less or is it a waste to get an all steel snubnose?
 
Customtrigger, milspecnsn, marano35, bkmagby, widowmake, Brian, ShootALot523 - Welcome to the 642 Club :)

Barrel/cylinder gap - 0.005" is recommended, S&W says 0.003" to 0.012" is OK :)banghead:), I like to see 0.005" to 0.008" or so...I have fired some with huge looking gap and they work, but I'm sure you get pressure differentials all over the board and accuracy will suffer.

wjh2657 - As you have found, S&W uses a "representative" generic schematic in all related models. I know exactly what you are looking for but I I don't think it exists outside of the production documents we don't have access to. I will PM you the email for a S&W rep that has been very responsive to my info requests in the past.

lagniappe - It just gets better :)...

...Like ol' times...

:D:D:D

I know jt1 really likes the Bantams for pocket or Smart Carry

DA knows me too well...I cannot recommend the Bantams and Monogrips enough...these grips are much superior to the issue grips in all respects...

...wondering if a steel gun kicks a lot less...

ShootALot523 - Any weight added to a gun will mitigate recoil to some degree, and this is true of steel jframes. The reduction in felt recoil can be significant but the trade off is of course having to carry twice as much, or more, weight around especially if you want to pocket carry. Many times the heavier guns get left behind because of this but the Airweights and Sc/Ti guns are much easier to carry. To pocket carry heavier snub's, or the X42's in lightweight clothing I am working on a belt supported pocket holster...

P8030021.jpg

P8030015.jpg

...add a rear sight to a 642...

The trench (gutter) is the rear sight...don't even worry about it, just put the front sight center of mass on your target...hold on tight...squeeze...repeat...:cool:
 
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Ya know, I rarely carry my 442 because it's limited to the 5 rounds and the slower, more cumbersome reloads. How do you guys handle this issue?
 
Nem says
MSAA on deck.
Dang. Like ol' times.
MSAA on this thread is like being the Maytag Repairman; no trolls or whack jobs.:( :scrutiny: Situational Awareness High, Constantly vigilant, threat level is at Orange. ;)

ShootAlot sayeth:
I have a aluminum 642 and like it. Just wondering if a steel gun kicks a lot less or is it a waste to get an all steel snubnose?
The answer is it kicks (somewhat less). Is it a waste? No not at all. You can never have too much hair, money, beer, or snubs.
In fact I would love to have an ILS free K Frame Snub in .357!! Some day I'm going to stumble into something.

P6040032.jpg
Dr_2_B
Ya know, I rarely carry my 442 because it's limited to the 5 rounds and the slower, more cumbersome reloads. How do you guys handle this issue?
Today 04:56 AM
One of two ways, speedloaders or speedstrips.
580.jpg
or Never engage more than five BG at a time. ;)
My favorite, the proverbial NY reload aka BUG.
P9110038-1.jpg
Seven rounds of that whimpy .380. Seriously if I think I am going somewhere high threat, two are better than one.
LWS-J-1.jpg

That said, you may wish to read this:
Michael usually carries a brace of
revolvers in his front pockets (a 2-inch
Colt Cobra on the right and a 2-inch
S&W Model 12 on the left). As a righthander,
his reloads are carried in a
speedloader on the right and a Bianchi
speed strip on the left, because the left
hand reload with the left hand is
assumed to be one-handed, using the
speed strip, due to an injured right
hand. He proffers the most persuasive
and extensive number of reasons for
the revolver as a superior sidearm
http://www.snubtraining.com/reviews.html
Mastering the reload.

jt1 says:
I am working on a belt supported pocket holster...
That's a great idea. Then one would be able to better support a steel snub. The workshop elves have been busy I see, looks good.
PA310006.jpg

...add a rear sight to a 642...

The trench (gutter) is the rear sight...don't even worry about it, just put the front sight center of mass on your target...hold on tight...squeeze...repeat...

Indeed. point and shoot, you don't need no steenking sight. ;) Maybe a Crimson Trace set of grips would be nice though.

Having said that, read this:
http://snubtraining.wordpress.com/category/snub-sights/
Alot of money I would guess to have XS Big Dots and a "unauthorized" gutter machining job.
Better to just buy a M&P 340 ;) and be done with it.
 
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Todays Reading Assignment

http://www.snubtraining.com/pdfs/WhyRevolversBeatAutos.pdf

Interesting Read.

Why Revolver Beats Auto.

Reason Number 16. :D

16. Looks nicer. Revolvers are more
jury-friendly. They look all-American.
They don’t look “mean.” They don’t
have hair triggers. They look conservative.
John Wayne and all the other
Western heroes carried one. Joe
Friday carried one. Bad guys in the
movies carry “Death Blasters
 
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