642 Club Part Deux

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Boatman, Old Sarge - At this point it doesn't bother me enought to consider trading (my locks no longer function, but there is the apperance issue) but if it is an issue for you I see nothing wrong with spending a little more to get what you want. In the long term $80 or $100 or maybe even a little more for a gun you carry for SD of you and yours seems well worth the money. I will say only to carefully inspect any X42 to insure you get a good example, lock or no.

...S&W, a bargin at any price :D...
 
...S&W, a bargain at any price ...:D
So, true.

If th' gun's got S&W on it, it's worth it.
____________

Wow, the night shift is in early today. :scrutiny:

(Must have something to do w/ jet lag ... :p )
Or, in my case, train lag. :D
 
Well, I've taken the plunge. I just bought my first 642 after spending hundreds (that's what my wife thinks) of looking on line. It's so new I haven't even taken it to the range yet. Also first time to the 642 club. Looking forward to learning lots from y'all.
 
hawkfan - Welcome to the 642 Club. Lots of info here for you, teach us what you know in return. Let us know how you like it.
 
Bought a 642-1 today. Traded my Taurus 44c 2.5" for the 642. I mean, I was starting to leave the heavy Taurus in the car and just rely on my NAA, so as I'm driving home I stop off in a new store recently opened and their choice was still very limited. All I knew was I needed something that wouldn't stay in the car. I only once before owned a .38 and that was 20 years ago, a model 60. So here I am with a nice carry piece that I hope to never have to use. I used to scoff at the .38, but it's the right platform and the round is the best choice for the weight and size of the gun. So I admit it, y'all were right and at least I can admit to being stupid and prejudice. Can't wait to shoot her.
BTW, I had a choice of with lock or w/o, I took sans lock!
I also paid too much ($447) but this was an impulse buy so no regrets.
 
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Thanks Jt, and in response to your post I love the 340. I almost bought the 642 instead but the sights on the 340 sealed the deal for me, that big white dot is sweet. It's a night sight but that's not so useful given I cant see the rear sight at all. The trigger is like butter compared to the 637 I shot in my search for which J-frame I wanted, and that 637 was a very seasoned range gun so I'm sure it's got the work out. It's very smooth and very stageable. My sight never deviates from where I aimed it prior to pulling the trigger. I hope to get it too the range later this week or early next week and I'll be posting some pictures in the M&P 340 thread so look for them there.

One question I've had though.....does the 340 have MIM internals? and what does MIM stand for; I've heard that term thrown around a lot lately. I've read all the posts of part 1 and deux but don't remember a very in depth discussion about it.

And yes I'll probably buy a 642 one day; just out of nostalgia, but I've got a 1911 .45 on the list first.
 
george29 - Welcome to the 642 Club, always room for new friends here. IMO with the right ammo the .38+P is just fine for SD. I lean towards the larger weight bullets and carry the Buff Bore 158gr LSWCHP +P, the BB standard pressure is also a good round as is the Speer gold dot +P short barrel. Guess Nem will have to coin a new 642ism...maybe the "nonlockers"...let us know how she works.

XDShooter07 - Glad to hear it works for you, the night sight will be useful for low light aimed fire even if you cannot see the gutter, just put it on the threat and pull...All of the current S&W production uses MIM parts as well as most every other maker today, seem to work ok, here's the details:

Wikipedia said:
Metal injection molding or (MIM) is a manufacturing process which combines the versatility of plastic injection molding with the strength and integrity of machined, pressed or otherwise manufactured small, complex, metal parts. Competing processes include pressed powder sintering, investment casting, turning and machining.

The process involves combining fine metal powders with a plastic binders which allow the metal to be injected into a mold using standard plastic injection molding machines. After the part is molded and before the binders are removed, the part is referred to as a 'green part'. The next step is to remove the binders with solvents and thermal processes. The resultant metal part is sintered at temperatures great enough to bind the particles but not melt the metal. The products of metal injection molding are up to 98% as dense as wrought iron and used in a broad range of applications (including medical, dental, firearms, aerospace, and automotive just to name a few.)

The window of economic advantage in metal injection molded parts lies in the complexity and small size of the part. Tolerances as small as +/-.003" per linear inch can usually be held without secondary processes. The difficulty of fabrication through other means may make it cost inefficient or even impossible to manufacture otherwise. Increasing complexity for traditional manufacturing methods typically does not increase cost in a metal injection molding operation due to the wide range of features possible through injection molding (threads (both internal and external), miniaturization, branding).
 
Thanks for the info. I've heard some statements by some that imply the MIM internals aren't durable......but I'd say 98% as dense as wrought iron is pretty durable.
 
Rookie Question

jt1,

One of your posts on this thread awhile back, that dealt with what one carries in their pocket, you had a speed strip with only four rounds in it. I was wondering why?
 
Thanks jt1. Believe it or not, the only place I found +P was at Walmart, the only problem was that the sales associate never showed up to sell me their 125gr JHP +P. I will try to find BB elsewhere. Meantime I have 158gr LRN, the grandaddy of .38 ammo.
 
One of your posts on this thread awhile back, that dealt with what one carries in their pocket, you had a speed strip with only four rounds in it. I was wondering why?

I'm not him but I'm pretty sure I can answer the question. You can only load 2 rounds at a time with a speed strip so a lot of people feel it is faster/better to load 4 rounds very quickly and get back in the game than to load four fumble with a fifth and then get back in the game. Also it's a little faster to get 2 rounds in when you don't have a 3rd round that you have to bend the strip to get out of the way when loading those two.
 
Would you trade no lock for $50?

I bought a pre-lock after buying one with the lock, then sold the one with the lock. It probably cost me about $80 to make the change. No regrets at all.

The one with the lock was my only S&W with ILS. I've passed on quite a few w/locks since. Currently own about 10 Smiths, all pre-lock.
 
You can only load 2 rounds at a time with a speed strip so a lot of people feel it is faster/better to load 4 rounds very quickly
and get back in the game than to load four fumble with a fifth and then get back in the game.
Yup. :cool:
 
tilden - On the speed strip question XDShooter07 is right on target, I will add only that you can also load only two rounds and get back into action if necessary. Whenever you are loading less than a full cylinder it is important to index the first empty chamber under the firing pin in order to get a live round with the first trigger pull, this can be done fairly consistently with practice, if you miss the index then it is a matter of the standard DAO revolver immediate action drill, pull the trigger till it goes bang. Even though I generally carry a backup X42, reloading is a basic SD skill and about 10 minutes of my daily 90 minute training schedule is dedicated to this. It is also important to be able to execute this skill with your off hand as well as some degraded position and one handed practice.
 
...You might be an X42head if: You can tell how many live rounds you have left by the pitch of the rattle...:D
 
Yipes!

"tilden - On the speed strip question XDShooter07 is right on target, I will add only that you can also load only two rounds and get back into action if necessary. Whenever you are loading less than a full cylinder it is important to index the first empty chamber under the firing pin in order to get a live round with the first trigger pull, this can be done fairly consistently with practice, if you miss the index then it is a matter of the standard DAO revolver immediate action drill, pull the trigger till it goes bang. Even though I generally carry a backup X42, reloading is a basic SD skill and about 10 minutes of my daily 90 minute training schedule is dedicated to this. It is also important to be able to execute this skill with your off hand as well as some degraded position and one handed practice.
__________________
As Always,
jt"

That's a lot of practice. God help the mugger who runs into you in a dark alley. I just have a question since you're obviously the one to answer this, how do you only eject two spent shells without also ejecting the other three live rounds?
 
That's a lot of practice. God help the mugger...
CallMeIshmael - Given the option I would avoid the "dark alley" and stay out of harms way, and hopefully situational awareness will allow me to manage any threat I might encounter before I am forced to reduce it. As far as "a lot" of training...this time also includes my physical fitness and martial training and is not all totally focused on firearms.

On the reload question, I was refering to loading only two rounds to a cleared gun while under fire or attack to get back into action when you have no time, hence the desire to place the first empty chamber before a live round under the firing pin...but the issue you raise is a valid one...a tactical reload, normally praticed as part of CQC for the shotgun, would be risky for a wheelgun, better to have a BU... or a bottomfeeder.:eek:

As for the "...pitch of the rattle..." if you have to ask you haven't been keeping up on you 642 club reading :neener:
 
I called the Smith and Wesson help-line today. The person I talked to said that they have never had a 642 with an internal lock that had malfunctioned. He said that they had seen 642's that had been tampered with to remove the IL and 642's that had not been cleaned to the point they would no longer fire. Never had the problem been the fault of a bad IL.

Say what you want about the IL on the 642 but the facts just don't back up the urban legends.

This where IL failures tell me I'm wrong.
 
642 club: 113,815 views

A large number.

And look at the 2nd ranked thread
(which seems to be coming up fast.)

I'm just sayin', SW rules.
 

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Nematocyst: Insteresting reload technique proposed by that person. I don't find it significantly different from the "standard" methods though. Hopefully, someone will post the videos to youtube.
 
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