642 Club Part Deux

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My only problem has been with the S & B 158 grain (lrn) I wondered whether the fmj would also be a problem.

Originally Posted by thesecond
100 to 200 rounds of S & B 158 grain (fmj) through several airweights (638, 642's), no FTFs, good practice round for the range, trying to support local, within reasonable limit.
 
I've hadn't had experience with the S & B LRN's, no lead allowed at the range I go to now. The S & B do seem to be fat at the rim, I haven't had any experience with the crimps being pulled from recoil, and although I've had no problems whatsoever in my 638/642 combo, no failures to fire or to eject the spent casings, they did have a problem fitting in a model 38 (cylinder wouldn't turn).
 
Yeah!!Finally got my 642 and went to the local range today to celebrate.After 125 rounds,I can see why this gun is so popular.I wish I would've got it years ago.Without a dought...this will be my ALWAYS carry gun.
 
Short answer: a backup plan is being discussed "off line", though this thread isn't the place to discuss it.

And even though it's a perfectly reasonable question, I'd like to counsel us all
not to discuss that issue in this thread lest a padlock be added to the club door. :uhoh:
 
Mick470, welcome to the club and to THR.

Glad your first day with the new 642 was so positive.
Wow, 125 rnds through the mule on the first day.
That's impressive. I'm guessing all of those weren't +p rnds.
 
You're right,Nematocyst.I did not shoot the +P loads the first time out.I just wanted to get a general feel for the gun and how it shoots.It barks pretty good with just the plain loads.I was plenty happy with the way things went.I will ALWAYS love this gun!
On the way home,I stopped at Dick's Sporting Goods to get some more ammo.That was my lucky break,as they were selling Ultramax 38 special (reloads)on sale.I paid $29.99 for 200 rounds.I thought that was too good to turn down.If I would've had more money on me,I would've stocked up with another box.The sale ended yesterday.
 
642 ammo help needed

I wn a 642 and need help deciding what to put in it for carry ammo. I have searched this thread, but could not find info on the following which were recommended by my local gun store. CCI 125gr GD .38sp+p or Hornady .38sp 125gr JHP/XTP. Any help appreciated. Cheryl
 
I picked up my new 642 today!

Wow. I am very impressed with my 642.

There are a lot of online posts about rough trigger action, metal burrs on cylinders, loose tolerances and other problems with new 642s. Well, either these problems were very rare exceptions or S&W has been paying much closer attention to quality lately, because my new gun is just about perfect.

I was a master office machine tech for 20 years and I know close machine tolerances. If my 642 was any tighter it wouldn't work. With the cylinder closed I can just barely feel a front to rear play less than .001 inch. In the right temperature conditions it would truly be no-play-no-binds. Beautiful.

And I have seen many posts criticizing trigger action. It seems to have long been standard practice to dry-fire a 642 more than 1K times to "smooth out" the trigger action. Maybe mine is an exceptional piece, but there is not the slightest drag on this trigger action. It's like all the sliding surfaces are highly polished. I haven't loaded it yet, but with a slow steady trigger pull I can keep the sights steady just fine. The fact that the last bit of pull eases up a bit actually helps sighting a lot; things get really smooth right when you need it most.

There was a range next door to the gun shop but I wasn't in a hurry to fire my new 642. I had read about so many problems with new 642s that I thought it advisable to have a gunsmith look it over first. Unfortunately, this is Sunday and I doubt that any smiths are open.

But after handling this gun and looking it over, I can't wait to run a box of cartridges through it.

The only thing I can't accurately check right now is how perfectly the bore and charge holes line up. I can do an approximate check with a non-flared screwdriver blade but the rifling in the bore makes it a little difficult to compare leading and following sides of the charge holes. I am sure that gunsmiths have much better tools for measuring this, but it appears that my new gun is aligned very, very well.

I selected the 642 based on online research. I had never handled or even seen one before. I had only seen pictures. It was impossible to accurately imagine the size of the gun compared to my hands. But as soon as I held the 642 in my hand I felt it was perfect. I am 6'2 and have proportionately large hands. If this gun was any smaller it would be too small. If it was any larger it would be a less perfect CCW piece.

So far I am super impressed and completely satisfied and I look forward to learning to shoot this gun well and experimenting with different kinds of holsters.

One last thing...

Included in the case with the revolver, keys, lock, manual and NRA solicitation there was a small envelope containing one fired 38 special shell. I thought that by buying a brand new gun I'd be getting a virgin. But apparently S&W fires a single round through their guns as a sort of test. I had never heard of this before so I was a little surprised. I expect I'll get over it in time.
 
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Aejotz,
Like you,I too am new to this gun.I just love it.I'll be out at the range again next week practicing and perfecting my aim.I was pleased so far at acurracy.I knew right away it won't compete with my target .357,but it fits a need I've been looking for.
I had the Keltec.380 for some time and liked the carry advantage it had but,shooting that thing was miserable.I have medium-large hands and looked like I just got done with a fist fight shooting that little .380.Not so with the S&W 642.I am totally comfortable in both the carry and shooting.
A friend of mine and I were talking about the TV show "Cannon",where the large detective shot a guy off a cliff at something like 50 yards with one shot,with his snub nose .38.We both laughed.That's Hollywood.While I'm sure there are some real dead shots like this out there,I'll be happy to make good groupings at maybe 25ft.30ft. will be a total sucsess.I think that's probably not unreasonable with practice.
I did most of my first time out at 20ft.At 15 feet I was knocking back bullseyes,and at 20ft. the pattern spred out.Guess I was mainly trying to get used to the DOA trigger and get a good feeling of what to expect.I must say....it does bark pretty good.The guy next to me,was shooting a Berreta 92f 9mm.He looked on pretty much like he was intrested.His girlfriend looked like she wanted to tell him,"I want one of those".HA!
 
CHERLD,

I think either of those loads would be very deadly.It should pack quite a wallop.
I grew up the son of a police officer(back in the 60's) and my Dad carried a duty .38 back in those days.My father had to respond to call once where he had to fire.The other man died at the scene with only one .38 round in him.I'm glad it was'nt him that fell.

My dad never got over this and retired within a year.It was cleared a good shoot.I never saw my Dad cry until that day.But this is another story I care not to relive.

My point is,a .38 is a real man stopping round.I'm not sure at all what exact .38 round my father was issued,but it was enough to change our lives and someone elses family,too.

My father now lives a good christian life and lives quitely and trys to help others through his experinces.I'm still proud of him.
 
cheryld:

I use the Hornady 125gr JHP/XTPs as my carry ammo in all of my snubs. It is not the greatest performer in expansion, but tests seem to indicate very little if any expansion from 2" .38s anyways. It does have good penetration (anything over 12" is wasted anyway)I have tried all of the "special" rounds that are supposedly made for short barreled guns and the rest all kick like a mule. This messes up any chance of fast follow up shots. the Hornady round is much easier to control in follow up.

All reports I have read from forensic experts seem to indicate that bullet placement and penetration are the key to handgun bullet efficiency. Most self defense pros seem to feel that putting 5 shots into the center of mass (COM) greatly increases your chances of putting your assailant down. All of us have our organs in different positions in our body ( i.e. heart may be 1' more right or left than somebody else's) so the idea of precision shooting with 2" groups may or may not apply to self defense shooting.

What you need is ammo that will let you to effectively get off 5 rounds into COM. I fnd, at least for me, the Hornady 125gr JHP/XTP does that best. Experiment with others, but do definitely put the Hornady in your data base!
You can buy the Hornady through Midway USA or Cheaper Than Dirt (Google for them.) I practice with Walmart Winchester white Box 130 gr FMJs ( cheap and same point of impact/Point of Aim)

It works for me, try several different mixes until you find one that works for you.
 
Mick I think police issue .38 back in the day was lead semi wad cutter. Thats what ive seen in pictures. looks like standard lead bullets with a flat nose.
 
642 Problem

I noticed that on my 642 the cylinder can rotate/wiggle just a smidge on its axis when closed. Does this create any danger in firing it, and will it affect accuracy?
 
MP5 - I don't know how much a smidge is but if you aren't getting shavings from the bullet you are fine; end shake (actually lack of) is more critical. Go to the sticky re: how to evaluate a revolver on the Revolver Forum and you will find all the information you need to form your conclusion.l
 
WJX2657, thanks for the info on the Hornady. It is one of the few ammos available in my local gun shop in .38sp. (I live in MA). Wish I could order ammo online-much cheaper! Cheryl
 
webb0219,

You are probably right on that.I doubt they had all the choices in ammo we have these days.Since I'm usally just shooting paper,I myself,just buy whats on sale at the time.The paper target knows nothing on what we spend.Guess mostly I just get my stuff at the local Wally World.I do remember back in the 80's,I used to get re-loads of .38 special for $5.00 a box.Those days are long gone it seems.
 
Finish care for the Airlite

I just bought one without the lock, here on the Central California Coast.
I am looking forward to finally firing it in 10 days (our waiting period.)
So, what about the finish?
I've only read that some of the 642s had flaking problems; not sure if this includes the new 642-1 lockless :) models like the one I'm getting.
In any case; I understand not to use harsh cleaning products; but should a quality wax be used to protect the finish?
I have really enjoyed reading this endless thread on this great shooting iron; but
I may have missed the "skin-care products" topics during my reading.
How 'bout some advise for a new 642 guy?
 
Great to see new members in da' house. We're glad you're here.
Y'all are running away with it! Great thing; nice to see new folks step up. ;)

Some of the long-standing members are very busy right now (that includes me) or out of town.
But good to see you're getting answers to questions from fine, longstanding members like 308win,
and new folks like Webbj.

Otteray, I'll let others address your finish question. I'm not very knowledgeable in that dept. :uhoh:

Cheryld, I don't think there's anything wrong with those 125's. We can nit pic all day about 125 v 135 v 158 (and when JT gets back, he'll say "Get thee to the Buff Bore 158!" ;) ). But when all is said and shot, I suspect the 125's are a great rnd, too. Don't feel undergunned. And as WJH points out, shot placement is perhaps as important as rnd, anyway.

Aejotz, thanks for a nice review. So interesting to read such a shining review
from a guy who knows his metals and machining. Yet another testament to this fine lil' mule.

Keep it up, folks. The club perseveres. Long live the 642 club, and long live THR. ;)
 
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Welcome

Cheryld
Otteray
Mick470

Otteray-
I contacted S&W a year or so ago about finishes. They indicated that the clearcote over alloy will tolerate about anything but cleaners with ammonia.

I have found Hoppes Elite to be a good product and at one time S&W was recommending it for lubrication and corrosion protection. No ammonia.

You can use Kleen Bore Leadaway cloths to get the really nasty stuff off the front of the cylinder (racoon eyes). Don't use Kleenbore cloths on Blue finishes.

On the barrel interior and cylinder chambers I use Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner. It does not contain ammonia. Follow directions. If you clean within a few hours of shooting I have never found it necessary to use a brush. Lots of patches and a rod until the patch comes out clean. There are those who feel a metal rod rubbing against the barrel crown will damage it, hence there are fans of bore snakes as opposed to rods. Me, I have plastic coated rods and they cost a few dollars more and perhaps that whole phenom is marketing hype.

There are a number of good products out there. Even WalMart has a broad selection of cleaners, preservatives and lubes.

Of course there is the school of thought on Ed's Red.

"Ed's Red"...

The formula is:
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS #64741-49-9,
or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon,
OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
The lanolin is not required if a separate lubricant/rust preventative is used.
The acetone will evaporate readily hence you may wish to add as necessary...
But seriously.......This is probably a last ditch and good if you like that Brake Repair Shop smell environment.

Probably fine when the revolution comes and you run out of the commercial stuff. :D
http://www.richardheinberg.com/endorsements/thepartysover

Finally if you have Crimson Trace laser grips, it is a very good idea to remove prior to cleaning, or at least cover with some tape. The bright tight red beam will become a hazy Crab Nebula galaxy if it is diffused with petrochemicals. :uhoh: Whaaa.

The ammunition debate.

Shot placement is king, everything else is dancing on the head of a pin.

I like BB, SGDFSB and one that is sometimes overlooked is 38 spl +P DPX. It is rated at 1200 fps, at 352 ft/lbs.
http://www.brassfetcher.com/110 grain Cor-Bon DPX.html
Brassfetcher test.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=183794&highlight=dpx

Another COR BON Article by Stephen Camp
http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/Corbon 38 Special Ammo.htm

Not too chablis.

Use this link to find BB, SGD and many caliber tests.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/ammo_by_anonymous.htm
An article written in 2006 alway certain to develop healthy ;) discussion.

http://www.gunsandhunting.com/snubby.html
An article by Wiley Clapp called Snubby Balistics.

The ever popular Snub Article
http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/Short Look at Snubs.htm

Stephen Camps Website with hours of pleasurable reading..
http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/OtherHandguns.htm

At Ease. Smokem If U Gottem.
 
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What a great post, DA.

We were overdue for
a thorough technical
essay on this page. Thnx.

This club alone is worth
the price of admission. :cool:
__________

Off to work with me ...
 
First time shooting

What a blast! (pun intended)

I shot my new 642 for the first time today.
Aims good. Shoots straight. Makes big holes (wadcutters).
Too bad my hands were shaking so much!

This is a much more exciting firearm than any of the rifles I've fired.
My hands started shaking right after that first round punched a hole way too high in the target. Two shots later and I was near the center of the circle at ten yards. Too easy. So I moved the target on back to 20 yards. Still in the circle, usually, but all over it. Like I said, hands were shaking badly. I only put 25 rounds through it because I was in a hurry to get home. My hands were still shaking when I checked out. I haven't had so much fun in a long time.

What a great little gun. I love this thing to pieces.
 
I love mine,too!!!!I'm just thinking...I wish I had laser grips on mine.I bought it used and now I realize how much cheaper it would've been to buy the grips with the gun.Does anyone know where I can get laser grips for under the $300.00 I've seen on the internet?
 
Crimson Trace Grips

There are three versions available for S&W J Frames.

I think you will find that for pocket carry most use the CT405.
If you want something with a slightly longer grip the 305s might be more to your liking.

http://www.shooters-resource.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=SROS&Category_Code=SW

Typically you can find them for under $350 including shipping.

Take a look at Optics Planet too.

If you Google Crimson Trace Grips you will find a half dozen reputable vendors. Check if shipping is free or not before the final analysis.

PA230002.jpg

Here is a 642 with CT 405s and the Bianchi SS loaded jt1 style. :rolleyes: and the ubiquitous Mika Roundcut pocket holster.

Just for the fun of it get a set of Hogue Monogrips (under $20) and try them out. If you think shooting is fun now wait till you try the HMs. You will never want to give them up, but probably will when you put the CTs on. ;)

aejotz:

That was my first experience with a J Frame too.
This is a much more exciting firearm than any of the rifles I've fired.
I had almost forgotten the excitement of that "first date".
 
+1 on the Crimson Trace Grips. There's a FREE DVD promotional offer on the website, www.crimsontrace.com (bottom-left tab), about an hour long, which is more of a "post-purchase practice/primer" than a "pre-purchase promotional video". Great information, and its FREE.

I'll keep the 405 in the lineup, as they are great recoil-reducing grips (air-pocket covers the infamous backstrap), even if you don't use the laser. That'd be an expensive padded grip, though. :)


The best price I found for CT-405's, www.nightvisionsales.com, $232.95, FREE shipping.

This thread has plenty good testimonials; Revolvers are no frills weapons, but the customizable aspects truly make them extensions of your hand(s).
 
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