642's stainless cylinder - big reason to buy 642 over 442?

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Frank1991

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OK - I know I posted a "642 or 442" thread earlier, but I want to be more specific and ask why a stainless steel barrel would be that much better than the one on the 442. As mentioned, I will be carrying 99% of the time in a bullet proof vest holster. I live in Connecticut so it can get hot for a few months in the summer. I really like the look of the 442 over the 642, but the gun will be hidden most of the time. If I go to the detective bureau then I will likely carry in a pocket or ankle. So what do the materials that the 642 is made up of over an advantage over the 442? How much durable is the 642 going to be over the 442? Thanks again
 
I went through something similar before I settled on the 442. I tend to like blued guns as far as looks. Unfortunately, at one point, I didn't care for the 442 properly, and small patches of rust developed on the outside of the barrel, as well as on the edges of the cylinder flutes. At that point, I was thinking I should have gotten the 642, since although I've heard of finish issues, I haven't heard anybody mention that theirs has rusted.

In any case, I'm currently in the market to buy another S&W Centennial Airweight. Mostly because since they are so light, I feel like I could easily carry 2 of them, when allowed. It would be easier than reloading with a speedloader or speedstrip.

I was all ready to buy a 642 until I noticed that the 442 has come down to the same price as the 642 (at least at the moment). Now I'm not sure which one I want to get. I'm leaning towards getting another 442.

Personally, I think if you'll be putting it in a bullet proof vest holster, you don't have to worry about it rusting (with proper care). I would go with the one that you like better, and it sounds like it would be the 442.

I know this post doesn't answer any of your questions, but "I've been there."
 
One small consideration

One minor advantage for the 642 is that it is easier to clean.

I have a 642 that I sometimes shoot at a lead-only indoor range (no jacketed bullets allowed). Unjacketed bullets tend to deposit lots of lead around the forcing cone and front of the cylinder.

There's a thread on here somewhere about cleaning lead, and based on some posts I used the Kleen Bore Lead Away wipes. They worked awesome on the 642's stainless cylinder.

However, check out this warning from Kleen Bore:

"...Caution: excessive rubbing may remove bluing."

Now I'm sure there are products out there that will clean lead from blued or other finishes, but overall, isn't stainless easier to clean?
 
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