Is this OK? I have quite a bit of military 7.62x51, OK to resize and load with .308 dies? I understand the cases are almost identical, except maybe a few internal dimensions. I have ran a few of these through my .308 resizing die, and it took a little effort, I thought one was gonna break off in the die. And I have noticed that I have to swage all the primer pockets too, I guess it's a crimped primer? Seems like the 7.61 is a little beefier brass as compared to the .308. My rifles is chambered in .308
7.62x51 in .308 dies?
- Thread starter Grassman
- Start date
- Status
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Yes.
7.62x51 NATO Is .308 Win.
Nobody makes 7.62x51 reloading dies anyway.
rc
7.62x51 NATO Is .308 Win.
Nobody makes 7.62x51 reloading dies anyway.
rc
If they were fired through a MG then the cases may be a bit more put of spec but use a good lube like Imperial Sizing Wax and you will be fine. Like rc said, 7.62x51 is .308.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
What did you "lube it up well" with?
rc
rc
RCBS case slick
primalmu
Member
I didn't have any problem resizing my Lake City 7.62 NATO brass using my Lee dies and Hornady lube. The only case I had a problem with was fired from a rifle with a fluted chamber. I just chucked that one.
You also need some lubricant on the inside of the necks. A dry case and expander ball is a bear to move.
I lightly lube the inside of about every third to fifth case neck. A little experience will let you knoe how frequently you need to apply the lubricant.
Be careful of getting too much lubricant on the outside of the neck. it builds up inside of the die and will cause hydraulic dents in the shoulder and/or body of the case.
blarby
Member
On nato MG fired brass, I've found that tumbling them REALLY clean before applying lube and sizing cuts down on the force required significantly to resize them.
Its all about friction, and dirty scuffy brass only works against you when you have a lot of shaping to do by sliding metal against metal.
Its all about friction, and dirty scuffy brass only works against you when you have a lot of shaping to do by sliding metal against metal.
oldpapps
Member
Good advise listed above.
Three things.
First, I punch primers (crimped in ones) in a separate operation. I think it is easier, yes it is an additional operation but only the first time.
Second, I put my lub on a pad and ever 4 or 5 (or when I get a lot of resistance) I run the case mouth flat across the pad for lub inside. Don't get excited yet, read the last one.
Third and last, I have found a hard glaze of carbon(?) in some/most military cases. This breaks/cracks during the full length sizing process and some will rattle out. I always clean first time threw military brass after sizing. The thought of a crust of carbon getting flung down my barrel to get ground in with the next shot doesn't set well with me. Note, my first clean is a rattle bucket with grit. The second is steel pins with Dawn soap and water in a rock tumbler. Nice and clean inside and out
Don't forget to check the web and trim to length.
Three things.
First, I punch primers (crimped in ones) in a separate operation. I think it is easier, yes it is an additional operation but only the first time.
Second, I put my lub on a pad and ever 4 or 5 (or when I get a lot of resistance) I run the case mouth flat across the pad for lub inside. Don't get excited yet, read the last one.
Third and last, I have found a hard glaze of carbon(?) in some/most military cases. This breaks/cracks during the full length sizing process and some will rattle out. I always clean first time threw military brass after sizing. The thought of a crust of carbon getting flung down my barrel to get ground in with the next shot doesn't set well with me. Note, my first clean is a rattle bucket with grit. The second is steel pins with Dawn soap and water in a rock tumbler. Nice and clean inside and out
Don't forget to check the web and trim to length.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
It's possible you are thinking that brass is harder to re-size when you are actually encountering resistance from the crimped primers. Some crimped primers are very difficult to punch out and that's what you might be feeling.
Yes, you will have to remove the crimp in the primer pocket before you seat a new primer. That is common with military brass and even some commercial brass now.
Yes, you will have to remove the crimp in the primer pocket before you seat a new primer. That is common with military brass and even some commercial brass now.
blarby
Member
Like speer
:banghead:- Status
