7.62x54r reload

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Thanks Mike. I have a manual on reloading 7.62x54R on the way.Just havent gotten it yet.Thats why I have sooo many questions.
Read the ABCs of Reloading too. You have to learn more than just the mechanics to be safe. You need to understand what causes a rise in pressure: bullet seating depth, headspace, case neck length, crimp, powder burn rate, ect. ect.

You will need calipers and case trimming equipment as well. Mistakes like an overlong neck will blow your gun up. Make sure you get a high quality balance scale like Dillon or RCBS, not a low end digital or a Lee.
 
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Richard Lee's ''Modern Reloading'' in an EXCELLENT reference. EASY to read, and aimed at the beginner, with plenty of easy to understand photographs of all the steps, and written with safety in mind.
 
Where on midayUSA is a hand help priming tool? I know that the sizing die removes the used primer and sizes the neck. But what installs a new primer?
 
If anyone lives near this guy they need to help him, Thor you need a mentor. Theres lots of safety precautions that you need to know, theres just too much for you to soak in over one night. Powder is very dangerous, a little too much powder can cause overpressure and damage most likely to you and your firearm. Too little powder can cause problems as well.

select dies, your die set needs to come with a full length resizing die and a bullet seating die.

make sure you are using 7.62x54 brass for only the 7.62x54 rifle. 7.62x54 is a cartridge and like all cartridges they are not universal in different guns such as 30/30 or 30/06 or 300 winchester magnum, this is imperative, your dies only work with one cartridge.

the first step is to resize your once fired brass, you need to adjust your dies in the press as the die instructions say. Next step is lubricate the brass, you need to put a lubricant on it to keep the brass from getting stuck when you resize it. Now put the brass in the shellholder and with your die adjusted properly, you pull the lever on the press. make sure you go all the way down with your press. The die will remove the old primer and size your brass to fit in your rifle again.

There is a separate tool for priming, but all of them insert the primer where the old primer was before.

now you have a Primed case, your next step is the powder process, this is where a mentor would help you a lot and keep you safe. ill let others chime in about the powder charging process.
 
I have been reading alot about this. I now figured out when you buy surplus ammo the weight that it says like 180 gr 7.62x54r is the weight of the whole loaded ammo. I thought it has 180 gr of powder in it! I would blow my face off! A mentor would be nice. Anyone live in Fort Worth?

I have everything coming except for the press and primers. Cost alot to get started but it will pay for itself in time. Here is the stuff I have ordered:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=988534
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=438260
 
the weight that it says like 180 gr 7.62x54r is the weight of the whole loaded ammo. I thought it has 180 gr of powder in it!

Errr, nope. neither are right. 180 grains would be referring to the weight of the bullet, not the whole cartridge. I won't say you are the 1st person to make that mistake though. I had an entire discussion with my brother about why some ammo didn't really have 140 grains of powder in it....He couldn't get a grip on the fact that things other than powder were measured in grains.
 
Are the steel/ berdan primed cartridges able to take more pressure than newer "brass" used for distance/target shooting? Thanks- the bookmobile will be by soon, then most of my questions will not be necessary.
Also the surplus ammo I am using seems to be very dirty, soap and water works slowly. But I found some TC #13 bore cleaner- it says for black powder/ pyrodex , is this product OK to clean with?
 
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So, How much powder do I put in my loads? Im sure the manual I ordered will say but I have not gotten it yet.
 
Slowhand47 and Thor5624, try this for some answers. It will have a lot of answers for you.

So, How much powder do I put in my loads? Im sure the manual I ordered will say but I have not gotten it yet.

Yes, the manual will say. The amount you start with will vary with they type powder used. Start at the start weight, and work up. Besides, that should be near the bottom of your list of things to know right now, IMO. Get familiar with terminology and the processes used first. There is a whole boatload of info on THR for you to learn from. There are also other forums that you can learn from.

Lastly, while there is a ton of good info on the web, there is also a ton of bad info. Be leery of what you read, especially when it comes to specific load info.
 
One of the easiest ways to learn how to do all this is with a Lee Classic Loader kit...the one where everything is done by hand and with a mallet. It gives a few powder charges that are compatible with the Lee dipper that comes with it. Once ya have learned to load ammo this way then it becomes easier and more clear when you start using a bench mounted press.
No scale or anything else is necessary when using the Classic Loader...just powder, primers, cases and bullets! It's almost foolproof as long as you follow the simple directions and use the powder scoop/dipper that came with it and the powders they say to use!!!!!!

http://leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1285751839.1410=/html/catalog/cleeloader.html
 
I just ordered a good caliper. Does anyone know the proper length of a loaded 7.62x54r round. So I know when the bullet is seated right. Dont want to seat it too shallow or too deep.
 
Does anyone know the proper length of a loaded 7.62x54r round. So I know when the bullet is seated right. Dont want to seat it too shallow or too deep.

Every major reloading book will have that info for you...all ya have to do is read it and understand what you are reading!
 
THOR, I read your other post on reloading for the x54r. A safe COL is 3". I looked through both my Lyman, Hornady, and Hodgdon manuals and can find no reference for IMR 4320 with a .311" diameter bullet. Sounds like you're going to have to do some experimenting, or the feller that told you he uses that load can give you a "safe" starting load and you work your way up from there. I think you ought to have waited to buy a loading manual before taking word of mouth on a powder and actually researched the manual and decided on an established recommended powder with data.

Now then, the next item is the die set. I think you picked the Lee die set. If that's correct, you may have to buy a different "button". This is the part that gets the neck the correct diameter. It's a long rod with the decapping pin to punch out the old primer. The included one with the Lee die set is for .308". Says on Midway's website... supposedly the .308" is more "popular" in the Mosins which sounds like a load of crap. RCBS uses .311" buttons in their x54r die set. So, what you can do is go on Lee's website, and buy the button for the .303 British. It is part # SE2358 - http://leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/parts.cgi?1272266646.5390=90547 You don't necessarily have to, but forcing the .311" bullet and opening the case mouth/neck 0.003" can be a bit of work.

So, you're probably going to want to do that. Anyway, I'm not sure if you finally got your manual in, but definitely take a good look at it. On your brass, if you can't find any, you're just going to have to settle with your Sellier & Bellot stuff. .311" bullets, primers (CCI 200, Winchester WLP, etc.). Case tumblers are nice, not required, but nice. You're going to want some sizing lube. There are a plethora of them out there, but if you want something cheap and simple... mink oil. That's right, the stuff you put on your hunting boots to waterproof them. Otherwise, Imperial Size Wax by Redding is good stuff. No matter what you use, you're going to want to use some sort of lube or you'll get a stuck case up in the die and it can be a pain in the butt to get out. Do not put lube on the shoulder of the case or it'll get deformed... not a big deal, but when you shoot that round, it will fire form to its original correct shape, but you're working the brass and weakening it. For the press, a simple cast O-frame by Lee is good. I bought one of those SmartReloader cast-iron O-frame presses and I think it's worth every bit of the $30 I spent on it. It does have some slop, but would you expect close tolerance fit and finish for $30? IMR 4350 might have been a better pick on powder. You can get the Lee Auto Prime and buy the individual shell holder specifically for it. It's a handheld priming tool. I bought one and used it a bit but any more, I'm using the Lee Ram Prime tool. It utilizes your reloading press and primes them one at a time manually, but I like that it seats the primer better than having to squeeze that darn handle on the Auto Prime tool.

For case trimming, you can buy a hand lathe type and spend a lot on it, the collets to hold the case, and the pilots... however, I spend a couple dollars for the Lee Case-Length gage deals and like them a lot. You can chuck the holder in a drill, lock your case into it, and then with the gage screwed into the trimmer piece, you just put it in the case mouth and it will stop trimming when the pin on the gage hits the shell holder. The cases must be de-primed before doing this operation. Search for the Lee case length gages on youtube and you can find videos of people using them. So simple and cheap.

I think I've included some information of use to you... you'll read it in your loading manual. Read it and re-read it until you know what's going on.

From MidwayUSA's website on the Lee Pacesetter 7.62x54r 3-die set...

Note from the Manufacturer:
•Lee Precision includes the expander appropriate for a .308 diameter bullet. Nearly everyone that reloads the 7.62x54 /7.62x53 uses the .308 diameter bullet. The availability and selection of .308 bullets are far greater than .311. In military issue ammo they used a .309 to .311 diameter bullet. The smaller expander is included as standard issue as it is usable for .308 as well as .310 diameter bullets if the larger expander was installed it would not be usable with smaller .308 diameter bullets. The limited amount of load data that is available usually is worked up using .308 diameter bullets.
 
THOR, that die set in the link you listed is a "bullet sizing die". This is if you cast your own bullets from lead, you would push the bullet itself through that die and it makes it .311" diameter... only if you had cast them at .313 or .312".

You'll need to go to the link I provided in my first reply to you above. It's on Lee's website and you'll have to order it through them.

Bluehawk, I too think it is stupid that Lee doesn't just include both buttons. Shooting that .308" bullet down a .312-.313" barrel isn't going to shoot very good at all. So, I don't know where they got their "mis-information" from.

THOR, what reloading manual did you get? Both Lyman and Hornady manuals cover the .310" - .311" bullets with the .308" bullets also. Let us know which manual you bought.
 
The loadbooks manual has a lot of different sections in it. Some are older and cover .308" bullets, others are newer. In the end it doesn't matter much if any. Start with starting loads as usual and work up. Cross check by comparing multiple charts for similar size bullets with the same powder.

However, it looks like you're new to reloading entirely and if that's the case you should probably set 54R aside for a bit and start with .357 Magnum or another much easier cartridge for reloading. 54R is an old metric with a lot of quirks to it, such as the .308" vs. .311" issue. I'd class it as an intermediate skill level job. Once you have a better understanding of the basics it will get a lot easier.
 
Sorry Fellas, but this guy scares the bejezzus out of me.:eek::what::(

Someone in Texas needs to help him out before he hurts himself!!

Thor, you need to STOP trying to run and learn how to crawl first.
 
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