8 MM Mil ammo

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280shooter

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I want to pull the Bullets and use the powder,
My bullets that i'll be pulling,are 198 gn,
I want to use 150 gr,
how much less powder would I use for the 150 grn?
 
Don't do it. PERIOD.

You can't positively identify the powder in the cartridge that you'll be removing and attempting to reuse. You can't identify what difference(s) the old bullet you're pulling will have on pressure compared to the new bullets you're putting in.

If you want to pull the old bullets and reload the cases with lighter ones, so be it. But you had better make sure you use identifiable powder and an appropriate amount based on what type when you reload with different bullets. To do anything else would be completely unsafe, regardless of what you might have been told or heard.

Anyone that suggests pulling the bullets for lighter ones and arbitrarily reusing some, or all, of "whatever" unknown powder is in the cases has either too many stones or too little brains to be trusted. Just to say it up front, hopefully you won't be told otherwise... people try crazy things.
 
well then I guess i'll pull the bullets and put the powder in a boxer primed case then seat the pulled bullets,I dont want the nasty primers going down my bolt gun barrel.
thanks for seeing me safely through that question
 
not sure why would you replace the bullets with lighter ones. The value of those milsurp rounds lays mostly in the bullets you are thinking about replacing, so why not just sell the ammo you have and get new reloading components...
I have experimented with using original bullets and reducing powder with some excellent results.
I don't want to start an argument, but theoretically having certain charge it would be safer to replace the bullet with a lighter one than the other way around.
 
280 Shooter

I agree you shouldn't pull bullets to play with the powder, particularly if it's milsurp from WWII. The German chemists in WWII did unbelievable things to create ersatz products. For those of you who don't speak German, "ersatz" is what we'd call "fake substitute" things, like coffee made from roasted chicory.

You have no clue what powder is in there, right? :eek:

Do us a favor: Put your Mauser ammo up for sale. If you're going to do this anyway, drop me a note and I'll buy the bullets from you. If you're doing that, please make sure you ship me the bullets before :scrutiny: you go test at the range whatever it is that you plan on concocting. I need those bullets and want them before you have the accident you're planning.

I mean it.
 
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this ammo isnt German, its turkish,I shot it out of my bolt gun,and my FN49
but the primers aren't boxers,and its very corrosive.I have reloading equipment,I do reload for my 8mm bolt gun,I was just not wanting to shoot the cororsive ammo in my bolt gun,My bolt gun is a custom,and i have to much in this to shoot cororsive ammo out of it..thats why I said i'll just pull the bullets and run it in my boxer cases and seat the 198 gr bullets and shoot them in my bolt gun,I did shoot these same cases way back, but thats before I sent this gun to a gun smith,
thanks anyhow for ur help/
 
Turkish ammo comes with 150 - something grain bullets. This is pretty hot ammo, some people like it, but I find 198 grain better for German K98 or Yugo Mausers.
Yugo ammo has 198 grain bullets and German WW2 ammo does as well, I think.
In your first post you said you were going to pull 198 grain bullets and replace them with 150's now you're saying , you'd be pulling 150's and replacing them with 198's ... so what is it that you want to do ?
 
Any Turkish ammo that I ran into had the 154gr bullets not 198. Are you sure it's Turkish? Have you weighed the pulled bullets.
The powder is usable but it is quite dirty. I had the same idea to use the powder, but the carbon build up was excessive when I reloaded using new brass and bullets and the Turk powder. I stopped using it.
I've been using Varget in my 8MM.
Make sure you have the right weight bullets.
And good idea not using the corrosive with your new custom rifle.

NCsmitty
 
8 MM Mil ammo

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I want to pull the Bullets and use the powder,
My bullets that i'll be pulling,are 198 gn,
I want to use 150 gr,
how much less powder would I use for the 150 grn?

I didnt type im going to pull 150 gr bullets. I said as you can read from my first post,,,,,,,,,, my mil cases are 198, pulled and weighed them,,so I do know someting here.
If you need me to i will take a picture of my cases so you can see they arent yugo ammo,maybe you can tell me what they are, if not turk,maybe some other mideasst country,but they surely arent yugo.
 
box of 50

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is this yugo ammo.... I think not//
 
damn u guys are hard to please LOL.. u know how many trys it took to get that box of ammo to download ok let me try that next,, anit much on the bottom,. but i will try,

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Persian, maybe?

Well, now.... let's see....

No, it's not Yugo. The markings look like they're Arabic (to me). Not one of my foreign language strong suits.... There were a lot of Mausers used in the Middle East right after WWII, Turks used them for decades, as did Iran and some countries I don't recall.

Persian characters? Turkish? Beats me. I'd still like to lay my hands on some of the milsurp 8mm with the 196-gr bullets. My M98 does great with those, and poorly with the lighter 154-gr 'light infantry' bullets. :banghead:
 
sell the ammo and start from scratch.
Especially if its bedran primed, why bother.
Also with lighter bullets one normally increases the amount of powder.
 
I got info from other forum on this ammo.
quote :
It IS Egyptian, and (a ) Very Corrosive (b) usually unreliable as to primers.

But if it works, it works well in Hakims and ET FN49s. Berdan primed,
also:
Says MISR (Egypt) at the top, 57 at the bottom.
 
280 Shooter, I purchased Turkish and Romanian 8X57, 80 rounds for $4.80, some were 150 + or -, others were 200 grain - a little, all had flake powder, like you I did not want the primers, I formed 30/06 cases using a RCBS trim/form die #15965, 30/06 case length 2.494, 8X57 case length 2.240, that is 25 inches of trimming for 100 cases, that is not much if you are using a hack saw, aircraft counter sink and or a file to finish, it worked.

The shooting range has changed the rules and will not allow FMJ bullets, the Turkish ammo was fast, the 150 grain bullets were running 2900 fps when using the Turkish ammo, I reduced the powder 3 grains on the 150s and 5 grains on the 200s, all of the formed cases were military, FC, LC DEN, UT, no problems, except a few dents and creases, I was told that was not a problem, I was told the dents and creases would 'blow out' this advice was as bad as the wildcat advice on forming cases.

80 cases had 49 grains of powder each, 143 cases contained 1 pound of powder, plus the bullet and 1,400 military 30/06 cases cost me $14.00 dollars and are reloadable, after forming to 8X57, the cases can be used to form 7X57, 257 Roberts, 6.5X257 Roberts, 308 Winchester etc..

I was told the brass would be brittle if it was not already too brittle, with advice from the reloaders that hang out 'in back' I installed the forming die upside down in the press, inserted a case in the shell holder and raised the handle, the case folded like an accordion, prefect circles, brittle brass would collapse and or split, I built a non acceptable method for annealing, so I can not advise you not to do it, I was informed the 'OLD' Mausers had head space issues, I thought forming cases would be a good way to deal with that issue, when forming 8X57 from 30/06 cases, the shoulder is moved back .115, if the person operating the press is in charge they should be able to control shoulder set back (not bumping, bumping sounds like an accident), feeler gage from $4.00 to $11.00 dollars. I do not have an issue with head space on Mausers becausee all of my presses are adjusable, and my presses are not 'springy'.

http://www.turkmauser.com/serialNumbers.aspx



clidk on link, scroll to bottom of SR# page and click 'AMMO'.

F. Guffey
 
right it shoot well in my FN49,,and i have that up for sale right now in this forum,if it goes fine if not i'll put it back in my safe,these bullets that i did pull were right around 197 -198, and the powder weighed 42 grs.
I was in the other forum where the guy has some of the turk ammo broke down on how to reduse loads.
I must have bought this ammo 20 years ago if not longer. I was buying ammo from sarco. century, and at least 5 ofthe places, ammo deopt was another.I have no clue if any of then still sell ammo.I bought out one police outfit from cali. i bought all there 357 mag..i still have some of that left. its 125gr, and its hot hot..hugh fire ball when you shoot it.I uses to buy 7.62x 39 by the pallets,i'm down to a few 50 cal ammo boxes of that now.

I have two 50 cal. boxes of the 8 mm, And Like i said Im not shooting that in my bolt gun,so if the FN49 doesnt go. i'll keep in the way it is.and use that,
 
i have about 400 rounds of 196gr 8mm ammo i was thinking of removing the bullets and simply replacing them with a similar weight hunting bullet is this a good idea i am using a k98 german mauser
 
I wouldn't mess around with that powder. Just pull the bullets and pirmers and re-use the brass with a published load.

It's even more of an issue since your asking about using a bullet that is significantly heavier. This is especially an issue concerning mil surp as they tend to use powders that were manufacturered and, or, blended for that particular bullet weight. Trying to come up with a working charge for a heavier bullet may be a complete disaster, if the powder application is specific to the lighter bullet, which is very likely to be the case.

And lastly, a really nice rifle like that deserves to be treated with loving care and not used as a test barrel / action.
 
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