870 disassembly?

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dwenslen

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Mar 16, 2003
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Birmingham, AL
Are there any online resources for the complete disassembly of an 870 including changing the stock and fore-end?
looking to add a speedfeed stock and was hoping there is something out there with pictures to follow.
thanks in advance
cheers
Derek
 
There is a special tool that you can use to get the retaining nut off the front of the fore end, but opening up a pair of needle-nose so the points are in the slots works just fine.

If you have a fixed stock, there will be a big flathead screw under the recoil pad. If your 870 came with the folding stock, LMK and i will explain that.
 
Derek, my guess is that a decent local gunsmith might charge about $25 to take off your old stock and replace it with the Speedfeed stock. Unless he's jammed up he could do it while you wait.

It is the kind of job that's within the capabilities of a careful do-it-yourselfer but it's much easier if you have the right tools. And they ensure that you don't muck up the gun.

To do the job properly requires two specialized tools. One is a forend wrench similar to this to remove the nut that secures the forend:

image

It costs about $20. The other tool is a buttstock bolt bit, which fits on an extension that reaches down into the dark recess of the buttstock, and requires a handle. The bit looks like this:

080870201.jpg

The bit costs about $22. You're home free if you already have the extension and handle, but if not you can get decent ones inexpensively at Wal-Mart for about $25-$30, I think. You'll also want a very thin Phillips Head screwdriver to remove and install the recoil pads.

Of course you don't really need the special tools. I've seen suggestions that a pair of needlenose pliers or other makeshift can be used to remove the forend nut and I don't doubt that it can be done. I wouldn't do it because I don't want to risk scratching the gun or stock taking off the nut, and I won't risk not tightening the nut enough when the new forend goes on. You also can use a long flat bladed screwdriver to take out the buttstock bolt. I've done it but it's very careful work: if the screwdriver slips the bolt slot, it can wedge between the bolt and the stock. Twist the screwdriver hard enough then and the stock cracks.

If this replacement will be a one- or two-time job, a gunsmith can do it cheaper, faster, and with less risk. Your call.
 
You'll also want a very thin Phillips Head screwdriver to remove and install the recoil pads.

While I agree with most of what Robert Hairless says, I have to disagree with this one. I just removed a recoil pad that was impossible to remove the screws from with a #1 phillips driver (a very thin one), and almost impossible with a #2 (what most folks would consider "normal"). The #1 can easily cause you to strip the head of the screw, and then you are really screwed, so to speak. If you lubricate the tip of the driver with some silicon lubricant it will slip into the holes, and will not cause them to tear. I say silicon, because rubber really "hates" petroleum based products, it causes rubber to swell and decompose. It is important to use the proper size driver for screws, just as Robert Hairless described in the butt stock bolt bit. It is more so with Phillips drive screws than some other drive designs.

I have a 1/2" drive drag link bit that I ground to fit the slot in the butt stock bolt. The OD of the bit will not allow it to slip off, since it just fits the hole in the stock. This was a solution done for expedience, not savings. You won't save any money on the drag link bit, I just happened to have one.

My nickel's worth.
 
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I couldn't recall the size screwdriver tip. The one I use has a small diameter shank that, lubricated, glides through the pad without damage.

Would you believe that I hadn't been able to find a drag link bit anywhere available to me? Sears sells them through its catalog but not in stores, and when I tried ordering a while back they were on backorder or out of stock. The Brownells bit was available and works.
 
dwenslen,
The correct tool for the job, makes sure there is no damage!
A word of caution on the stock bolt, if you use a long screw driver it is possible for the bit to lodge between the screw head and the stock. It's hard to tell if this happens as it feels as if the screwdriver is in the screw slot, then when you apply enough pressure to loosen the screw you can SPLIT the STOCK at the wrist area! The correct size bit and a guide to center the shaft in the hole is needed to do the job with out the chance of damage.

Go to the local W- Mart and in the Black&Decker display there is a drill bit extension for spade type wood boring drills, it's working end is 1/4" hexed and fitted with 2 allen screws your screwdriver bits will fit this end ,you secure them with the allens. The diameter of the working end is almost the same size as the hole in the stock.You can use plastic electricians tape to increase the size, this will ensure that the bit will be centered. Now the size of the bit you may have to custom grind one which is a simple job. The bit extension is male hexed on the other end, find a socket that fits, use your rachet to turn the bolt. Now you have a cheap and servicable tool for futher use!
 
SnarlingIron:

Drag Link Bit...Grainger.

Thanks for that link. I eventually bought the Brownells bit. It works well.

Two things for 870 owners to keep in mind are that the length of the bolt varies according to the stock and the kind of head does too. Lee Lapin posted a reminder a few weeks ago but it's easy to forget.
 
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