870 Forend Positioning

[556A2]

Got a new (old) 870, and even though this is FAR from my first one, I keep having an issue when replacing forends. This one was loose, and I just tightened up the nut, but now the forend scrapes the left side of the barrel. I'm not one to really care about wear, but its something that has bothered me with my 870s as it always seems to happen.

Is there a way that will help prevent this? I know the action bars has the little witness mark, but even though it looks perfect, the scrapes always come when I adjust/change the forend.


Side Note: This is a dog of a 870. Its an ex-PD 870, and I make out it was in Dothan AL. It started out as a 2 3/4" 18" Wingmaster years ago, and since then it has been through a lot:

* Barrel has been converted to 3" chamber. The 2 3/4" only has been struck through with 3" inscribed on it. (No idea if the ejector was updated)

* Has a good amount of pitting. The PD parkerized it, so its not very noticeable except in a few spots.

* A shell latch popped out when I removed the trigger group (heading to a smith' this weekend to be re-staked)

* Has a older 870E stock set with the sporting forend cut down to LE length, and stock had been drilled for a sling stud.

* Converted to a Flex-Tab. May just be the carrier as the bolt seems to be original as its been parked.

Still $191 shipped wasn't bad for a beater HD & Hog shotgun.

 

[AI&P Tactical]

First consideration is that it does not matter that the barrel is chambered for 3 inch unless the receiver will eject 3" shell. If the serial number ends in the letter V it will not unless the receiver was also modified. Often LE trade ins are parts guns because the Armorer will take off the best parts and install the junk he has around right before the weapons are traded in.

The forend needs to be lined up before you tighten the tube nut. Look at the space between the sides of the forend and the action bars and make that equal. I use an ejected spring as a spacer when I install a forend to even this out but anything will work. Once you have the forend centered you can then tighten the tube nut.

Or, simply get the Speed Feed LE forend as it has a tit that fits in the space between where the action bars are braised on and that centers the forend.

 

[Virginian]

You do not need to re-stake the shell latch. I had one fall out on one of my 1100s and I just Superglued it back in place as a temporary fix. That was 5 years ago and now I don't remember which one it was. Its only staked to hold it when you take it apart anyway.

 

[Black Knight]

Be careful about having the shell latch re-staked. I had my local gunshop re-stake the shell stop on mine and it now has a worse problem. You can load shells into the magazine but they will not transfer from the magazine to the elevator when the pump is activated. You must unload the magazine by carefully removing the magazine cap. I am thinking of sending mine to Remington for a proper fix.

 

[556A2]

You do not need to re-stake the shell latch. I had one fall out on one of my 1100s and I just Superglued it back in place as a temporary fix. That was 5 years ago and now I don't remember which one it was. Its only staked to hold it when you take it apart anyway.

I actually took your suggestion since a local smith was quoting me a 1 week wait time to re-stake it. After 24 hours of curing it seems to work like a charm. Only been able to run some dummy rounds through it, but function is GTG.

Will run a few boxes through it this weekend.

 

[Fred Fuller]

I use a Menck tool to R&R 870 forearms. Since it's a tubular tool, it slips over the magazine tube and allows the forearm nut to be tightened with the forearm back on the receiver, so you can see to line it up easily. See http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=8873/Product/MARK-III-FOREND-WRENCH.

With the correct diameter tubing, someone who was handy could fabricate their own...

A less expensive (but it fits fewer shotguns) option is the Baker tool - http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=17206/Product/SHOTGUN-FOREND-WRENCH