870 Wingmaster Unknown History Inspection Before Restoration

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Freudianfloyd

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To make a long story short, when my Grandfather passed, I was given an old 12g Wingmaster of unknown origin. My grandpa was an avid collector, and this gun was in his shop on the shelf with no stock, barrel, or trigger assembly. It is rusty and pitted, but still looks like it has some potential. Atleast I hope it does.

I will add pictures later.

Anyway, the gun has some substantial rusting on the receiver, and action. The gun may also have been in a fire from what I have found. The mag tube spring did not have alot of temper left, and the ejector spring also seemed soft. However, there doesn't appear to be any warping of the mag tube, and the receiver after doing some media blasting and sanding seems to be cleaning up pretty well.

I know a lot of people are going to say "it's junk", "why risk it", "it will blow up in your face", etc. And those who tend to be a bit more adventurous like me would say "at a minimum, take it to be inspected by a gunsmith".

So that is my question, if taken to a gunsmith, what would they even look for? A hardness test? I have the equipment to do that myself, dye pen testing? Most gunsmiths probably don't have the equipment needed to actually inspect the micrograin structure, so what would they check to say yes or no to this one being safe?

I can measure the receiver and compare it to my other wingmaster, I can do hardness testing and dye pen testing. What else is there would they test?

Again, I don't know if it was actually in a fire or not. The spring may have just been stuck in the compressed state due to the rust for all I know.
 
I 'rescued' a Win. 94 that had been in a fire. It was on the "parts gun" wall at the last shop I smithed at.
It needed a stock set, all springs replaced, and a few odd parts. The finish was 'speckled' but other than soaking it with oil , it didn't need refinishing. It was made sometime between Dec. 8, 1941, and mid '44. Winchester didn't keep the best records on commercial guns during that time period.
My son deer hunts with that gun since I gave it to him a couple years ago, and now mentors young Hunters who use his AR, which is what he hunted with before I gave him the .30WCF.

I say give it a shot, but it might not be a bad idea to have a gunsmith check the receiver out first.
Pics would help.
 
I would just look for structural cracking or severe pits . If that doesn’t exist I would finish it and rebuild it. If it’s bumpy from the rust there are products from Brownells that can be used as a gun Bomdo before recoat and finish. Duracoat makes a similar product. A Mag tube is cheap enough that it may be worth the swap but not really necessary if it is not dented or bent. Synthetic stocks are cheap, wood is pricey. Barrels can be had in their longer versions reasonably. Not so much for a Riot or Slug barrel, they are pricey. Good luck. I have done a few 870’s and one Mossberg that were sentimental and almost beyond what some would try to restore. They are strong actions designed to be used and abused.
 
I'd stop where you are and Cerekote the outside of the receiver, that will minimize the appearance of the pits. It looks structurally sound, assuming the left side of the receiver is about the same, or better.
 
I'd stop where you are and Cerekote the outside of the receiver, that will minimize the appearance of the pits. It looks structurally sound, assuming the left side of the receiver is about the same, or better.
Yes, the other side looks just as good.

I considered cerakoting it, but I have a mint barrel for it, and really don't want a cerakoted receiver and blued barrel, or to cerakote my nice barrel.

Also, I didn't me tion this at the beginning, but I am converting it to a 16 gauge since that is what the barrel is. I've already ordered the parts to make the conversion except I need to figure out how to remove the ejector rivets without spending $45 on the cutting tool.
 
Any tricks for smoothing out the inside of the receiver? It's about as rough as the outside was before I started sanding. There are a lot of nooks and crannies in there.
 
Small squared ceramic stones. Concentrate on getting a level smooth surface that, while obviously will be pitted, should provide smooth action. The rail slots are going to be where you want to concentrate,
 
Made some progress today. I might go work on it a bit more when the babies go to bed. Took a bit of the shine down with some 600 grit sandpaper. I am still debating working it until the pits a re gone, but I really don't want to remove too much material.
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Also did some shining on a few other parts.
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And with the help of a dremel, I was able to polish up the grooves that the rails slide in. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but they are Shiney like an old mirror.
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Looks like your ejector spring is missing off the ejector plate.
Looks like this:
Remington-870-Ejector-replacement-and-installation-staking-in-place.jpg
 

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Looks like your ejector spring is missing off the ejector plate.
Looks like this:
View attachment 1122417
Yes the spring was removed because it had lost its temper. I tried to save it by reheat treating it, and it did seem to be a success, but when I reinstalled it on the new rivet, it wound up breaking at the hole, so I had to order a new one.
 
Well here it is. The wood is from an Express, I just wanted it so I could make sure it functions before I invest in better wood.
Before:
full.jpg
After:
full.jpg
But it functions pretty well. The only issue I have had so far besides being tight when racking it, is the shell doesn't always pop out of the mag tube. I think the reason is the new mag spring is meant to "be fit" to the gun, and I just pushed the entire spring in. So it appears that the spring is pushing the shells against the catches too hard and not allowing them to move out of the way.

Does anybody know the correct process for fitting these springs?
 
Well here it is. The wood is from an Express, I just wanted it so I could make sure it functions before I invest in better wood.
Before:
View attachment 1122717
After:
View attachment 1122718
But it functions pretty well. The only issue I have had so far besides being tight when racking it, is the shell doesn't always pop out of the mag tube. I think the reason is the new mag spring is meant to "be fit" to the gun, and I just pushed the entire spring in. So it appears that the spring is pushing the shells against the catches too hard and not allowing them to move out of the way.

Does anybody know the correct process for fitting these springs?
Are shell stops different between 12 and 16 gauge and if so, did you put the 16 ga ones in?
 
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