9mm Luger Load

[Grumulkin]

I would like some opinions of you loaders of the 9mm Luger cartridge. In a previous post on this forum, there was a photo of similar soot markings down the side of a straight walled pistol cartridge. The prevailing opinion seemed to be that the pressure was too low. That did make sense to me so, having a similar situation, I decided to increase the load. I am now 0.3 grains over the maximum recommended Longshot load for 115 grain jacketed bullets and though recoil has increased, the soot markings show no sign of getting better.

Commercial cartridges, by the way, have only slight soot markings and maybe a tiny bit less recoil with 115 grain bullets.



Here is a photo of the mouths of the cases. You will notice that two of them are fairly dented. This has never happened with factory loads nor with the loads that were 0.2 grains over the published max. I'm thinking I'm probably a little over what should be the maximum load but I'd like the opinion of other knowledgeable reloaders who have loaded for straight walled cartridges to be shot in a semiauto.

The nice part is, the 0.3 grain over published max loads has provided the best accuracy so far.

 

[rg1]

You're using probably the slowest powder in the burn rate chart for 9MM and most likely the pressure is low even for maximum charges. Bet you couldn't stuff enough Longshot into the case to create normal high pressures for 9MM? Not saying Longshot isn't appropriate for 9MM but just that pressure is still probably low?

 

[Wheeljack]

If you have a blow back designed pistol, like the Hi-Points, you will get burned powder on the shells.

 

[Walkalong]

Those cases are not bad at all. I have couple one load that tend to be cleaner, depending on the gun, but many are very similar to that. Yep, the squeaky clean factory cases (Some of them) make us want to achieve that, but it's difficult.

You need a couple of things, high pressure, and no case movement until the pressure decreases a certain amount. How much of a decrease I have no clue.

The same load that leaves brass very, very, clean from my EMP, will leave brass very sooted when fired from my blow back 9MM AR where the brass starts moving immediately, breaking the brass seal against the chamber.

 

[Grumulkin]

The interesting thing is that another load using 115 grain Barnes bullets (no longer available by the way) using Longshot and shot in the same pistol leaves very little soot.

I'm not worried about the dents making them bad for reloading. My only concern is that lower pressure loads and factory ammunition does not leave cases dented. It makes me think, correct or not, that I'm running on the ragged edge of high pressure for that gun if not overpressure a little.

 

[gamestalker]

I use a lot of Longshot in several cartridges, 9mm included and various type actions, including blow backs. I solved the sooty issue by working with OAL and powder charges combined. But proceed with caution when working with the 9mm, as it is very pressure reactive to OAL.

I backed the powder charge down to about mid published, I then began working the charge back up until I was at max.. If the soot didn't go away, I decreased another .010" at mid table again, and worked back up again and kept doing this until it cleaned up. I completely eliminated the soot and was also able to remain within the published data for the most part. Some of my pistols were a bit more demanding of powder charge increases, but not all that much.

Longshot is a great powder, but it does require some adjustments with OAL to get the pressures needed to burn clean, and it will burn clean. I even use it for lighter bullets with very nice results, it just requires a little more work to get it there.

I have a 38 spcl. load that is 1.1 grs. over published, and it shows no high pressure signs what so ever. It's a very easy to manage powder, and once you find the right specs, it will perform awesome in most firearms.

GS

 

[1SOW]

Single based powders will burn cleaner at lower pressures. SR 7625, AA#5, VV340/350, and some others.
Slow burning double based powders won't. They have to have the higher pressures for efficient burning. Other slow double base side affects can include muzzle flash and powder particle build-up, depending on the powder choice. These may perform well but with side affects.

If your bbl dia. is larger than a given bullet likes, pressure will leak. .356 plated or jacketted bullets might help. Some say they even prefer .357

 

[Nordeste]

What about the crimp?. 9 mm requires a slight taper crimp, but if you fail to do so, you will get cars with those signs of poor pressure.

 

[1SOW]

What about the crimp?. 9 mm requires a slight taper crimp, but if you fail to do so, you will get cars with those signs of poor pressure.

The 'neck tension (sizing) holds the bullet in 9mm. The taper crimp should just remove the very slight belling from the powder die so the cartridge will 'feed' smoothly.

If you over-bell the case, then you might lose some case neck tension. The taper crimp should bring it back into contact with the case without damaging/indenting the bullet in any way. Bullet dia. + 2X case thickness = good taper crimp.

 

[Nordeste]

I usually leave mine at .376, with very slight deviations, which is what I was told by my mentor. Didn't know about that "rule" but will keep it in mind. Thanks!.

 

[JamieC]

I'd up the grains or change powder. The dents in the case mouths appear to be from 'stove pipes', generally caused by not enough pressure to cycle the slide properly.

 

[Hondo 60]

If you're already over the max, I would NOT up the charge ^^^

Grumulkin - you do as you wish, but I wouldn't use Longshot for 9mm.
As stated above, it's too slow for this application.

Personally? I use Accurate #5 or Tite Group for 9mm & am very happy with both.
If I HAD to choose? I'd go with Tite Group.
And I was even able to find Tite Group during the worst of the shortages.