A-Bolt triggers?

[fal308]

Who makes an aftermarket A-Bolt trigger? Jewell only has the spring kit. I've only found a company named Moyer that makes an aftermerket trigger but have never heard of them, though Brownells sells them.
Also are there any sites that detail adjusting the factory trigger?

 

[Clint]

I have a Ruger #1V that I installed a Moyer trigger in, they are very good triggers, I have mine set for 3lbs. My #1V is my best shooting rifle.

 

[cdbeaver]

Moyer trigger

I also bought a Moyer trigger (direct) for My Ruger 1V. Had a local gunsmith install and tune it, and it made a tremendous difference in trigger pull. In my estimation, a very worthwhile after-market purchase for the No. 1.

 

[rugerfreak]

The owners manual tells you how to adjust it-----thinking the Browning web site might have info too. No need to buy aftermarket stuff for your Browning.

Both my A-Bolts are down to 3lbs---plenty good for a hunting rifle.

 

[BrianW]

I have to disagree with rugerfreak: i tried, using a properly fitting gunsmith screwdriver, to adjust the trigger on my Abolt and tore the ears of the screw without creating any adjustment at all. Since then, I've read of the same thing happening to others.

I'm looking into aftermarket myself, altho I don't want to spend anything on that rifle.

 

[Robert inOregon]

I have to disagree with rugerfreak: i tried, using a properly fitting gunsmith screwdriver, to adjust the trigger on my Abolt and tore the ears of the screw without creating any adjustment at all. Since then, I've read of the same thing happening to others.

Just comes to show that not everyone is cut out to do smith work.

Here's a tip for those that don't have a problem breaking the factory adjustment screw. The trigger breaks clean and all the A-Bolt trigger needs is adjustment. I've done this two ways. When in a rush (want to shoot it today!) push the trigger pin out and the trigger and adjustment spring will fall out. With a trigger scale and cutting pliers start clipping small amounts of spring till your trigger hit the desired weight. Proper method is to replace the trigger spring with a softer spring till you reach your desired weight. I field my rifles and have found a happy medium at a true two pounds. There is no need to spend extra money on products you don't need.

 

[Nero Steptoe]

" Proper method is to replace the trigger spring with a softer spring till you reach your desired weight..."

Or, you could do as others have suggested and buy a trigger that's ACTUALLY an adjustable trigger, you know, with pull, creep,and overtravel adjustment screws. (Although spring clipping sounds like a pretty easy fix.)

 

[JohnBT]

I was curious, so I surfed. The manual is on the Browning USA site under Manuals. Looks like anything under 3# is going to require some work or money.

The A-Bolt II's trigger is preset at the factory. The trigger pull can be adjusted within a range of approximately 3 to 6 pounds. To adjust the trigger pull, first MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE RIFLE IS UNLOADED. Next lower the floorplate and carefully remove the trigger guard screw (See Figure 11). Lift the trigger guard out of the stock (See Figure 12).

The trigger pull adjustment screw is located at the rear of the trigger assembly (See Figure 13). To decrease the weight of the trigger pull, turn the adjustment screw in a clockwise direction, using a small screw driver. To increase the trigger pull, turn the adjustment screw in a counter clockwise direction. NOTE: If trigger pull is increased too much, the trigger cannot be pulled.

Turn the screw clockwise until the trigger can be pulled.
The trigger pull can be measured, with the bolt closed, using a very accurate spring scale or a commercially available set of trigger pull measuring weights. Most gunsmiths can also measure trigger pull for you.

When finished making the adjustment, place the trigger guard back in the stock and reinstall the trigger guard screw snugly.

John

 

[Mr Bill]

The trigger adjustment screw only adjusts the pull weight, it doesn't adjust for over travel (creep). To have the creep adjusted on the stock trigger have a competent 'smith do it for you. The 'smith fee won't be as much as an after market trigger. I've had my micro medallion set to a crisp 3# pull. After closely studying what the 'smith had done I set my stainless stalker to exactly the same setting. If your not 'skilled' don't try it yourself for it could make for a dangerous (lethal) condition.

 

[Robert inOregon]

Browning triggers have no creep from the word go and is an instant engagement of the sear. Trigger weight is all that needs to be adjusted.

 

[fal308]

Thanks everyone for the information. I'll pass along everything to my friend with the A-Bolt.

 

[larryw]

Robert, when you remove coils (or parts of coils) from springs, the effect is to stiffen the spring. I don't understand how stiffening the spring is used to lighten the A-Bolt's trigger pull. Is the A-Bolt's trigger put together something bass-ackwards?

 

[Nero Steptoe]

Don't know about the configuration of the Browning trigger, but I do know that Glock striker springs aren't as strong with coils clipped off as they are without coils clipped off. The same holds true with Rem. 700 trigger return springs.

 

[Robert inOregon]

larryw, don't know if cutting springs makes them stiff or not, but before designer springs, we cut a ton of trigger springs on S&W revolvers and they sure worked a whole lot better. Like I stated in the beginning of this thread, the proper way is to replace the spring completely with a softer one. All the trigger spring does in this case is set the trigger tension and reset the trigger after firing. Rifle will actually work without any spring at all. It will produce an 11 ounce pull. Don't think we need a discloser statement here, we are all big children and understand that 11 ounces is a no-no. And a trigger without a reset is a huge no-no. I've found comfort in a 2 pound trigger. Started by cutting (the experiment!), showed my gunsmith and he got all pissed off and gave me a pack of different springs. I spent an evening trying the different springs till I found the right one. No need to mess with any of the sears. I've been happy ever since.

 

[dcraig4570]

Well I removed some coils form my A-bolts spring and my triger is at 1.3 lb

 

[castingdonkey]

Hello folks I found this site through this thread and had to join to say thanks to Robert in Oregon. I had to go the cheap route on my trigger job but it feels great. I tried everything I could to set off the gun without touching the trigger and I couldn't get the pin to release so good news. The way Browning builds their safety it is impossible to fire the weapon if the safety is set but I tried that anyway. Thanks to all that contributed to this thread.

 

[Strongbad]

For what it is, the Moyer's trigger is an excellent little unit. It's basically nothing more than the stock trigger with a couple of extra holes drilled in it where it pivots for more adjustment i.e. overtravel, and engagement. The standard screw in the rear of the trigger is retained but you get a different screw and spring to reduce the weight of pull from the stocker. It's also very very easy to install. The one I put in a A-Bolt stainless a couple of years back has been excellent and trouble free.

 

[sourdough44]

The Timney replacement spring(medium or light) is the way to go with the A-Bolt trigger.

 

[bgr2014]

Browning A-Bolt triggers

You can have a very good trigger by modifying the original. Drill and tap the back of the trigger housing in the step where the mounting screw goes, drill all the way through to the trigger and tap for a 6-32x5/8" allen head set screw. Then with the trigger pivot pin out you can back out the spring tension screw and either install a lighter spring or shorten the original 2 coils. Also grind the round end of the tension screw about half off, and polish it. This gives you more adjustment options. If you have a problem getting the safety to work properly, take the screw that goes through the trigger and acts as the safety pin, chuck it in a drill and file it down a little at a time until the safety works. Be sure to put some thread locker in the new screw. I've done a lot of them and they work great.

 

[herb40]

A bolt trigger

Get the Timmey replacement spring before you do anything else, I guarantee you will be happy with the result.

 

[SwampWolf]

I guess I'm just lucky: my A-bolt trigger was fine right out of the box.

 

[castingdonkey]

My rifle is a euro-bolt and it is said in the maual to have a set trigger that allows you to have an 11 ounce trigger. For whatever reason my rifle has the same trigger as an A-bolt. I cut exactly 2 coils off the spring and the trigger feels much better but for some reason I am all over the place at 100. I am going to read as many forums on this as I can before asking questions. But on another note I am shooting the same horrible groups with my handloads that I was with factory rounds when I first bought it. So I belive I just need to relax and I'll get back to 5/8 groups again.

 

[bgr2014]

A-Bolt

Have a chamber cast made, I re-barreled a new one because all of the rifling did not come back to the free bore evenly. It shot just the way you are describing yours does. The lighter the bullet the worse it shot. With a chamber cast you will be able to see if that is the case. If so Browning will change it out for you.

 

[castingdonkey]

I will check that out, Thank you.

 

[castingdonkey]

Turned out my rifle was coming apart at the seams. The screws were nearly all the way out of my rear scope mount and the stock was very loose. I am pretty sure the issue was more so the scope mount. 2-3shot groups at 100 were great, one could be covered with a nickel and the other with a penny. Thanks to a good buddy with a lot more knowledge and a torque wrench I'm back in the game.