A couple of quick 1911 questions

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johndoe1027

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I bought a used SA Mil-Spec here last year sometime. The barrel bushing is different than any I've seen before and I was wondering if it's any good or not. Basically, was it an upgrade or a downgrade? My camera stinks at closeups but I think you'll see what it's deal is before your head starts hurting from the blurriness.

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I would think it's a good thing since it has basically zero clearance but then again, I've been wrong before. A lot.

The reason I'm wondering brings up my second question. When I rack the slide it's not very slick or smooth. I'm a little OCD about that (read: obsessed about that) and I'm thinking that the barrel bushing is part of the culprit. The barrel isn't super smooth on the outside so the bushing is dragging a little causing some of the gritiness.

But when I hand cycle the slide without the barrel or bushing installed, it's still not great. Is there a semi-easy and cheap way to make the slide action smoother? I don't want to just try things without some recommendations from you guys first.

I tried to find an answer by searching and couldn't come up with anything. Maybe I was trying the wrong terms. I also didn't find anything in the mega-sticky either. Maybe I overlooked it. If either of those is the case, please forgive me after you paste a link in here for me. :D

Thanks a million in advance for any help.
 
Looks like a collett bushing from an old series 70 gvt. model colt . Colt tried them because they are some what " self fitting" and thus saved man hours . The down side is occasionally one of the fingers would break off and lock the pistol up tighter than a bank vault . Not a good thing at the range , and a disaster in a defense situation. Gunsmiths made good money for years replacing the durned things with solid bushings .

As to the rough slide .. Unless its really rough i wouldnt worry about it it will shoot in ( polish the bearing surfaces ) on its own . If you simply cant help yourself you can pull the recoil system and barrel , apply a small amount of polishing compound ( such as flitz , ect.. )to the rails and rail channels
and hand cycle the slide on the frame a few hundred times to " lapp inn " the rails . that may or may not help since the rails are not the only thing involved . As i said just shoot it and it will likely get smoother on its own . IMHO someone allready screwed with it since if i am not mistaken springfield never used the collett bushing .
 
Okeedokee. Adding "replace barrel bushing" to the to-do list on this one. I'm glad I asked.

Thanks a lot for the help. This gun has most definitely been "screwed with" since it has a delta hammer. I love it as a starting point though (no front cocking serrations, lowered and flared EP and beveled MW already). I have decided to make it into what I've been trying to buy for almost 2 years now. It doesn't need much really. New thumb safety, better sights, longer trigger and slim grips then I'll be completely happy with it.

I'm going to attempt to fit the new solid bushing myself. I would like to get a "thick" bushing though if possible. I've seen them in pics before (always aftermarket, never OEM) and they look really sexy. I can't seem to find them for sale though. What are they called exactly? I can't even find a pic of one right this second but I will if no one knows what I'm talking about.

This gun only has about 1500 rounds through it but with the cost of ammo these days (even reloading lead) I'm inclined to speed up the polishing process a little. I won't try to make it feel like a accu-rail gun in one night or anything crazy but take a small shortcut if you know what I mean. Just help it along a little.

Thanks again for the help. :)
 
That might be the one I've seen but I bet I'd have to get any of the thicker ones fitted by a smith since I don't have a lathe. I didn't think about that. I should probably just find one that's about the size I need and go with whatever fits. I can take a thousandth or two off by hand but not much more than that.

Thanks a lot.
 
If you want one you don't have to fit yourself, call EGW - they can cut you one to your specific needs. In fact, if memory serves me, one can go to their website, plug in the numbers, and order exactly what he needs without even calling.

Best,
Jon
 
They are definitely who I need to be working with. Thanks for that lil tidbit. I'm gonna get a few things from them. Top quality AND affordable?!? I must be dreaming.

I can order a thick flange bushing to the size I need. Now all I need to figure out is which I need, straight bore or angled bore. What the heck is that?

Sorry for all the uber-newb questions but man, this things is going to be sweet when I'm done with it. :D
 
What's hilarious is that I didn't know that saying, had to google it. LOL! Oh the irony.

I guess they are right huh? ;)

I'm excited about this "build" now. I'm just waiting on some cash to get the parts and get started. I'm making a call to EGW today to see exactly what they need from me on the bushing. I might get the trigger from them as well. I'm going to get my list together with links and all so that once I get the cash I can get everything on the way ASAP. Woohoo!
 
John, you are embarking on one of the most rewarding hobbies going. The keys are to be sure of what you are doing before you cut, and to proceed slowly. Building a drop-in parts gun is not hard, and frankly, building one of better quality is not that much harder, again if you make sure you know what you're doing before you get started. When you're ready to build a truly top-flight 1911, then things get a lot harder, and I'm still on the upward learning curve. Each one I build, though, is the best I could have done at that particular point in my rookie, kitchen-table-builder efforts, and so, even though later guns get even better, I'm still proud of every one I've ever built.

Also, resign yourself before you start to boogering parts - ruining them. Just consider that part of the tuition for your self-education. I see it as sort of a bell curve. As you go up, you're just learning what each part does and how it works with the other parts in the system. Then, when you reach the top, you've gotten the basics of all that down, and then as you start down the other side, you start figuring out how and why one modification affects others in the system.

Have fun!

Best,
Jon
 
I have decided to have some of the work done by a smith (cutting for the sights at least). I'm going to fit the bbl bushing myself but I'm still not sure about the trigger and thumb safety. I'm going to do a lot more research before I decide to do either of those. I'll probably end up doing them myself just to gain the knowledge and make this one "my baby". Dropping a gun off and picking it up is cool and easy but I trust my work even more than a smith. That's his job. It's my safety I'm concerned with. Please don't take that statement as derrogatory to smiths in general, I'm just really picky and OCD. :D

I have only barely begun my research into all of this as I still have a week before ordering the parts. The internets is a great thing when it comes to teaching yourself how to do something. I have also learned to get multiple opinions on everything since there are so many different "methods of attack". The grain of salt and all.

The good news is that I've done a fair amount of precision metal work before and I understand the importance of taking it slow and test fitting often. I'm also overly meticulous which I'm sure will make for long evenings. I'm also an expert reverse-engineer and that always helps when tinkering with firearms.
 
Fitting - REALLY fitting - a trigger and a GS are things that you can certainly do yourself, and if you know what you will be doing before you cut, and then proceed slowly and carefully, there is no reason on earth why you can't do a jamb-up job on both counts.

And that's where it's a great idea to work collaboratively with a 1911 smith as you go along. Be sure you choose one that specializes (or at least has a lot of experience) with 1911s. Some of the really top-flight folks out there will work with you and let you do as much or little of the work yourself as you want. Examples are Messers Don Williams, Chuck Rogers, Bob Rodgers and Dave Erickson. I'm sure there are others, but these are the folks I know first-hand would be great to work with you. I have sent pistols I've built off to Mr. Rogers and to Mr. Williams and asked them (on a paying basis - that's only fair!) to evaluate what I did well and what I did not do well, and that sort of thing is absolutely invaluable to rookie builders like you and me.

If you're really interested in learning from the ground up, you might consider buying a less expensive 1911, for instance a Daly or a Thompson, and then working to upgrade it. You'll likely make LOTS of mistakes along the way, but when you're through, you will have a much better pistol, and you'll have a beater to stick on the floorboard of the truck, AND you'll have a LOT more knowledge with which to tackle work on your more expensive pistol.

One more thing - it may, or may not, be a good idea to buy a bunch of parts from a place like Sacro to start out with. Those are probably the cheapest way to go, BUT, they often present spec problems that you'll have to figure out and resolve. Another option is to start out with a Daly, Thompson, etc., and then fit up high-quality aftermarket parts to get the hang of it. In my opinion, that can be much easier (again, if you know what to buy and how to fit it) than dealing with the Sarco stuff, that you'll likely have to figure out spec problems with as well.

Best,
Jon
 
Well, I do have a Thompson that I was going to sell....

I'm unemployed ATM so building 2 guns isn't feasible but maybe you're right. Maybe I'll start with the Tommy and some more affordable parts (not the Les Baer $55 thumb safety for instance) to make sure the Springer is super extra cool when I get around to it.... Definitely food for thought.

The Tommy needs more work than the SA though. It shoots a little low (sights are not the issue) and the trigger is horrible. It also needed some tinkering from a friend just to pass a safety check... Even still, starting with a tough project could make things easier when I get around to working on a nicer gun.

Dang, now I have a whole other project to consider.
 
Okay, now if you're going to do this, do not make the mistake of choosing parts on price alone. That can cause you headaches, and believe me, I have learned from the saying (wish I knew who originally said it), "Buy cheap, buy twice!" Instead of buying cheap, save your money and buy good quality parts.

Also, here's a photo of an EGW bushing I had them make up special. I wanted one of the monogrammed sets they offer in addition to the plain one. The monogrammed set one can order straight off the site is standard a thick bushing, which lends a flush appearance to the muzzle of the gun. I had already cut the barrel back, so I needed a thinner one. They cut this one to the thickness (front to back) I needed, and also to the specific OD of the barrel and ID of the slide I needed. Here's a photo to show you. It is high-quality stuff!

Best,
Jon

IMG_3954.gif
 
I'm definitely getting all of the parts I can from EGW. Their prices aren't unreasonable in the least. I wasn't meaning that I was going to buy the cheapest parts I could find, but not the most expensive either. I don't want to go so cheap that they are out of spec at least.

As far as thumb safeties go, who's a good one? I've heard that CMC parts are basically cheap. Not affordable, cheap. So I was going to stay away from those. I know that names like Brown and Wilson are always good but who else?

Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you etc.
 
By CMC, do you mean Chip McCormick? Heck, I've never heard, or experienced, anything buy top quality from their parts. In fact, I probably use their fire-control parts more than any others. I have had some trouble reaching them in a timely manner or receiving adequate responses from them when I've ordered directly, but the parts themselves are very good.

One source of good-quality parts at decent prices is Caspian (www.caspianarms.com). Other high-quality parts folks are Brown, Cylinder and Slide, Wilson, Dave Berryhill, and many others. Some folks like some of those and not others. It becomes, I think, a matter of personal preference. For instance, I prefer to use parts other than Wilson parts because I have difficulty installing some of them well, which may well be a product of my own shortcomings to a degree. I have been advised to stay away from John Masen parts, which are very inexpensive but of quality that has been questioned by folks who have advised me.

Best,
Jon
 
Yes I did mean Chip McCormick and it's nice to hear good words about their products. I could've been hearing words from inexperienced folks. I was just shooting the breeze at the range when I heard that. IIRC it was the owner/ smith saying that but I could be wrong about that.

Now I know what to look for. It seems that most of the stuff that Brownell's carry is good quality.
 
BigJon,

I agree wholeheartedly with what you have said. I to am on a 1911 learning curve, sometimes it's great fun, sometimes I get frustrated, I have ruined a few parts along the way as well.

But when it all comes together, it's worth it. I have a Norinco that has been my "test mule" and oddly enough, it has become one of my favorites and an excellent shooter to boot, in spite of my best efforts to ruin it :rolleyes:
 
After a lot of reading I'm not so sure about messing with the Thompson as it's a Auto-Ordnance Thompson. At least one person (1911tuner) has expressed an opinion about them that makes me think it wouldn't be a real good one to start on. :confused:
 
Right you are, schmeky! I have a LARGE box of "scrap metal," but hey, that's just tuition, and it was darned well worth it for the pleasure learnng continues to provide. I have never had the chance to fool with a Norinco, but I've heard lots of folks say they love 'em and that they can be great platforms to build upon.

John - Yes, Brownell's carries a very wide selection, and a lot of it is good stuff. Best of luck on your build!

Best,
Jon
 
Thanks Jon. I'm detail stripping the AO now to see what it looks like on the inside (never been all the way into one before). Tuner offered to look it over for me to determine whether it's worthy of working on or not. All I have to do now is make it over there to see him. That'll be cool. If only there were more people in the world like him, BigJon and so many others here at THR.

It's nice to see first hand all of the parts and interactions I've been reading about. My eyes felt like they were going to pop if they had to look at one more set of hammer spurs earlier. :D

If the AO is deemed worthy I'll tinker with it before hot-rodding the Springer. Sounds like fun to me.
 
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