A few questions from newbie (45acp)

[biggsie]

Well I think I am almost ready to begin reloading. Here is what I purchased so far:

- Lee classic turret press kit with 45acp dies, pro auto disk, and the safety prime (sm&lg)
- Digital caliper
- Digital scale
- Tumbler, media and seperator



I have cleaned and de-primed 350 rounds and now I think I'm ready to get some components.

This is where I need some help:

1. Is there a specific powder that I should start with beeing a newbie? Also where is the best place to but it? My local Gander Mtn. does not carry powder.

2. Same question with primers.... although Gander Mtn. does sell them.

3. I want to get a few different types of bullets, FMJ, SWC, and JHP any suggestions?

4. Do I need anything else that I'm missing to start?

Thanks in advance for the help!!!

 

[lee n. field]

1. Is there a specific powder that I should start with beeing a newbie? Also where is the best place to but it? My local Gander Mtn. does not carry powder

For .45ACP Bullseye works for me.

2. Same question with primers.... although Gander Mtn. does sell them.

As long as it says "Large Pistol Primer" it's OK.

3. I want to get a few different types of bullets, FMJ, SWC, and JHP any suggestions?

Start with a classic. 230 grain RN, either lead or FMJ.

 

[Matt Dillon]

Biggsie: You have entered a fascinating hobby, albeit one that does require a good bit of reading before you start. If you haven't done so already, please purchase 3-4 reloading manuals, which will not only give you a good overview from different perspectives of the loading process, but also will provide you the data you seek regarding choices of powders for different calibers. I don't load 45 acp, but I do load 40, and have used HP38 and W231 with good success for that caliber.
With regard to where to purchase components, you need to find some gun shows to attend, or perhaps there is a local reloading shop, gun range, or other source from which to purchase powder, or be resigned to purchase it on line and pay a hazmat fee.
With regard to other items, do you have a good powder scale? If not, please don't skimp there, (I use an Ohaus 1010), and for your powder scale, please purchase a good set of check weights and develop the habit of checking your scale before every loading session.
Also, you can't have too many loading trays. Vibratory tumblers and media separators are very useful, as well as are digital calipers (these can be purchased inexpensively at Harbor Freight)

Best Wishes, good reading, go slowly and have fun!

 

[RustyFN]

You can buy Bullseye at Walmart and primers. If not look on the web at Powdervalley.com. They have great prices on powder and if you buy enough you will still come out ahead even with the hazmat fee. I have to avoid the local gun shops where I live because they are $6 to $7 higher on everything.
Rusty

Edit: congratulations and nice choice on presses.

 

[SASS#23149]

where to buy powdder depends on whose around you I guess.We have a chain called Bi Mart that has it,and 1 of 4 walmarts has it.....for now anyway.
Do you have Sprotsmans' warehouse?
If you buy online buy a lot to defray the outrageous hazmat fee.

Safety glasses.!! 'stuff' can happen while reloading.

 

[teombe]

Here's a couple of tips for you that I learned the hard way:

1) If your load data for 45 states an OAL of 1.275", find some more load data. This is the max cartridge length for 45, and loading any longer (but within the tolerances on OAL for your press) will make your rounds stick in the magazine.

2) Your rounds will usually vary by about .002" - .005" in length over your entire run on a turret or progressive press. This will only be an issue if you try to load a cartridge to hit your 1.275" maximum.

3) Lee n field has good advice about sticking to 230gr ball for now. Perfect making ball ammo (and buy your bullets in bulk) before moving to anything else. My only other advice is to stick to bullets for which there is specific data (not just generic weight/shape data) - Speer and Hornady comes to mind here

4) You will find that certain brands and ages of cases will give you more trouble than others (length, primer pocket, etc.) I would recommend buying new brass when you're ready to make your first big run (or using fairly new once fired from win, speer, r-p, etc...).

5) Take it slow, and make small (20-30 round) batches until you get the hang of things and figure out that you like your load

 

[CMcDermott]

Lots of good info already posted

1) Buy a manual first before doing anything else

2) stick to 230 RN FMJ to start with, Midway usually has a good price on either Reminton or Winchester bullets.

3) Powder - W231, Unique or Universal are good choices for replicating the standard factory load. Bullseye, Red Dot or Titegroup are best for reduced target loads.

I recommend buying a manual from one of the powder companies, then use one of the the powders listed in the manual for the 230 RNFMJ bullet.

 

[PsychoKnight]

Doesn't your safety primer instructions say to only use CCI ? Or if you use Winchester, only load 20 primers into the tray at a time? Something like that? I don't have a safety prime, but I've used every type of Lee priming system for the past 15 years and there is a common theme... Check it out.

Please reread the instructions that came with the primer system, as priming is the single most hazardous aspect of handloading - at least during the time of handloading. If you create squibs, double charges, confuse powder or primer types, or create bullets setbacks, you will have hazards at the range later on. Which is why friends don't stand next to friends when they fire their first few batches of reloads.

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Biggsie,

Nice looking setup you got there. Congrats on your purchase. I agree with everyone else about buying a couple of reloading manuals. The sticky for new reloadings notes some other stuff you may want to get as well. It's located at the top of the forum. Your other answers in context below:

"1. Is there a specific powder that I should start with beeing a newbie?"

W231 is a real good powder to learn to reload .45ACP on. Not the cleanest, but it shoots good and meters nicely. I would also look at Clays, Unique, Bullseye. Titegroup is good, but with the low grain weight, might be better after you've been reloading a while.

"Also where is the best place to buy it? My local Gander Mtn. does not carry powder."

If you have gunshows in your area or somewhere nearby, they are often a good place to buy powder, as well as local gunshops. Your next option is onlne and you may want to getting up a group buy. Larger orders and the hazmat fees are waived. You might want to list on your profile where you're from, so members on this forum local to your area can get together with you about group buys to save money.

"2. Same question with primers.... although Gander Mtn. does sell them."

The answer to question 1 applies to primers as well.

"3. I want to get a few different types of bullets, FMJ, SWC, and JHP any suggestions?"

Start out learning to load with some 230 grain FMJ. Then when you've got the basics down, save yourself some money and load with 200 gr Lead Semi wadcutters. The most economical, very accurate and easy enough to load. If you have any troubles, ask on the forum.

4. Do I need anything else that I'm missing to start?

Load manuals and a read through of the sticky at the top of the forum for "nice to have" items, such as Akro bins, should do it. If the shelf you're using for a bench isn't rock solid, you may want to beef it up. If it is, disregard this last comment.

 

[P0832177]

Your first step is buying the best reference book or what I call Reloading for Dummies or The ABC's of Reloading from Krause Publications.

There are several great reloading manuals of the real kind not the freebee ones! Paperback manuals are good for cross referencing data, at times. For meaty manuals a person can not go wrong with the Lyman48th and Sierra. One must always look at the loads when you compare data. Especially in larger calibers as some data might be using different brass from yours. Case in point Hodgdon used WW brass to work up loads with, whereas Sierra used Fed cases in their 308 Winchester loading information.

Press - Single Stage or Turret presses are the best way to learn before advancing to any kind of progressive press. You will always have need for a single stage press. Redding and RCBS are good sources of all kinds of presses. RCBS Rockchucker Supreme for a single stage and Redding T7 for a turret press are basically the gold standard for press types.

Dies - I like Redding Dies, and I would get the carbide expander ball upgrade for bottle neck rifle cases. Dillon makes carbide rifle sizer dies, but you still need to use case lube and make sure you lube the inside of the case neck, too. I would just stick with regular dies for rifle cartridges. Dillon makes die sets specifically for their press so to speak, meaning that it does not come with a case mouth belling die; Redding makes a set of dies for progressive presses, too. I like Forster competition seaters, and they can be had as an individual item. Dies are pretty much threaded universally, except for Lyman 310 dies, and Dillon dies for the Square Deal N. Accuracy nuts will use hand dies, and they require an arbor press be used.

Shell holders (if the die set doesn't have them like Lee) or the appropriate shell plate for the progressive press. Remember that many shell holders work for more then one cartridge. I would do some home work, especially if you get a Dillon. Some cartridge conversions might only require you to get powder funnel for the new cartridge.

A tumbler will be a good investment, as clean cases will not harm you dies. There are vibratory and rotary tumblers out there. I like corn cob media treated with some Iosso case polish. You can get walnut in bulk at Petco or Pet Smart. Bulk corn cob grit is a great way to reduce the cost of commercially supplied media, because you pay through the nose for the treated media from other vendors.

MTM makes great loading block tray that handles most cartridges.

Case Lube is great for both conventional dies, and to treat your brass used in a progressive press even with carbide dies. That extra lubricity makes the cycling of the press a tad slicker! Dillon spray lube works well for shake and bake application. I like Imperial Die Wax for rifle cartridges when FL sizing.

Case Neck Brush to clean bottleneck rifle cases

Dial Calipers

Case Trimmer (Lee works, but Possum Hollow is better, Wilson makes the best hand powered Lathe trimmer, and Giraud is the best powered Trimmer)

Deburring/Chamfering Tool

Primer Pocket Cleaner and uniformer

Primer Flip Tray is needed for loading pick up tubes for some primer systems like the Dillon.

Priming Tool (I like the RCBS (now even better with universal shell holder, but Sinclair makes the best)

Powder Scale - remember that is always better to have a mechanical scale as a back up to any electronic scale.

Powder Funnel kit with drop tubes especially if you intend to use powders like Varget.

Powder Trickler (used to tweak powder charges )

Powder Measure (nice for faster powder charges it does require a bit of learning curve to get consistent powder charges sort of rhythm thing) standard with progressive presses, but the RCBS Uniflow is nice! Redding makes a better one, and Harrell is the gold standard!

Hammer Type Bullet Puller (for taking down the boo boo's)

Ammo boxes and labels

A notebook for recording your results! Saves covering the same ground twice!

A chronograph is great when working up loads, but is more a luxury in the beginning.

 

[bigsarg99]

All the Good stuff has been posted .......man, oh well Ill add alittle. You definately need a the Loading Manual(s) cant say that enough! Also as a newbie you will definately want a kinetic bullet puller (it makes the bad bullets go bye bye:banghead: ) you can get it from midway or browells maybe even gander mtn. You will also need a tumbler for vibe cleaning of the brass , good media such as ground corn cob or nutshells and a media bullet seperator. i suggest midway for most of this stuff (they give you a discount on your birthday ).As fars powder for .45 I have have great success with good ole' WIN 231 a good all around powder. Not to say that the loads that others use there is anything wrong with at all but that just my load for 230 gr ball. I have noticed that my 1911's seem to like Federal primers better With CCI noticed some FTF none with Federal primers. I started out 20 years ago with a lee challenger press with this powder, 230gr Jacketed round nose and some cases I scrounged from the range. I feel the .45 is one of the easist calibers to learn on. I now use a Dillion 550 but my lee sits right alongside it for the precision stuff. I think your set up will serve you fine. Oh if you dont have the bullet blocks and all that just keep all the ones from loaded ammo you use or find in the trash at the local range. Lastley If you get into to this like most of us you gonna need a bigger work bench and more shelves . Goodluck!

 

[Blakenzy]

All has been said, but one thing can't be stressed enough: Don't skimp out on the reading part. It will save you from a lot of screwups

 

[The Bushmaster]

Load manuals, Load manuals, Load manuals. It just can't be stressed enough. There is so much information in them that they should be the first item you buy. And one isn't enough. At a minimum two. I have around 6 manuals. The three that are used most are Lyman 48th Edition, Sierra 5th Edition and Winchester.

 

[Jim Watson]

Books and manuals are essential. Read them, don't just jump to the load tables. But you have to use the old noodle, too. There are a lot of posts on the shooting boards where recipe reloaders are in paralysis because they cannot find load data for the exact components they have. Well, duh, Speer isn't going to publish load data for Winchester primers and Sierra bullets, but you can make a start from that book by reading the fine print about starting loads and working up.

 

[biggsie]

Thanks everyone! Alot of great info, I'll be sure to get and read a few manuals before I begin.

What is the difference between FMJ, LRN, and SWC as far as loading? Why are some reccomending I start with FMJ?

 

[The Bushmaster]

FMJ=Full Metal Jacket...LRN=Lead Round Nose...SWC=Semi Wad Cutter...I bet the manuals will answer all your questions. Including that one too.

 

[biggsie]

I know what the letters stand for I just wondered what the difference in the actuall loading process is different that some reccomend starting with FMJ. Besides feeding thru the gun properly I can see no reason to not start with lead bullets.

 

[teombe]

Start with one type of bullet.

Start with the bullet with the most load data, bar none, for your caliber.

Start with the type of bullet you can buy 1000 of right now.

230FMJ is pretty much it in 45ACP.

 

[GCW5]

One thing to watch with Bullseye, the charges are small enough to hold a double charge pretty easy. I like powers that fill the case fuller to help avoir this potential problem. Universal is a good one, as is Unique. They also allow quite a bit of room from light to maximun loads.

 

[TEDDY]

BULLETS

I FIND THAT LEAD BULLETS ARE THE BEST IF PLINKING AND TARGET.SELF DEFENSE BUY FACTORY.ROUND NOSE FEEDS BEST.SOME GUNS WILL NOT FEED HOLLOW POINTS.SEMI-WADCUTTERS ARE TO CUT CLEAN HOLES IN PAPER.3.5 GR OF BULLSEYE IS A NICE MILD LOAD. AND ECONOMICLE.UNIQUE
FOR HEAVEY LOADS.
AND THE OTHER POSTS HAVE STATED MANUALS A MUST.READ READ READ.
ALSO I WOULD SEND FOR CATOLOGS MIDSOUTH/GRAF BROS/AND OLSO LEE/LYMAN/RCBS/REDDING.THERE ARE OTHERS. AND BE GENTLE NO BANGS
GOOD LUCK
WILDCATT