Starting out - my list. What did I miss?

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JonB

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With factory ammo prices going up, I wanted to start reloading for 223 and 10mm.

Here's what I think I need:

Lee Classic 4 hole Turret Press
Large and Small Safety Prime
Auto disk Powder Measure Riser
Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure
Safety Scale
Couple of reloading manuals

10mm carbide 3 die set

223 full length Die set

Questions:
Considering the turret system - Is this the right set up to do all the functions - deprime, resize, prime, charge, seat/crimp bullet?

Only other things I can think of after reading many many posts on this would be
a)caliper to measure overall length and case length
b)some sort of trimmer set up for the .223 cases.
c)deburring tool
d)Tumbler?
e)lube pad / lube
 
Your list looks good, I only have two suggestions. First I would recommend getting a RCBS-X die instead of standard full length resize die for your .223. I reload a lot of .223 and I hate trimming so I trim once and use the X-die which prevents the case from growing. Later on if you start loading other rife cartridges and only shoot them in one gun and it is a bolt action I would recommend getting neck sizer die instead of a full length that way you don't have to lube otherwise stick with the X-die. The second thing I recommend is buying a cookie sheet with good sides and using Hornady 1-shot lube, it is clean, easy to use, doesn't cause lube dents on the neck, and is relatively inexpensive (about $7 a can and I have loaded over 10K on my current can). I have used it for years and never stuck a case. lay your cases down in the cookie sheet and spray them all with the Hornady 1-shot and roll them back and forth to evenly distribute the lube. Any one who sticks a case using Hornady 1-shot didn't get any lube on the case.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I read somewhere that I should use a full length case die for semi-autos. ie an AR15. Not true?
I like the idea of spray-on lube. As a kid my job was to roll the cases back and forth on the pad for my dad - messy stuff ;-)
 
I prefer to seat and crimp in separate steps so I have the four die set with the FCD. Not a must but most people prefer to load pistol that way from what I have read.
Idano, thanks for the tip on the RCBS X die. I am going to start loading 223 soon and will have to look into that.
Rusty
 
JonB yes you can use the full length die and most people do, but if you do, your cases will stretch more and you have to trim them. The whole purpose of the X-Die is to prevent the case from stretching during resizing so you don't have to trim it.

RustyFN you will definitely want the X-Die when reloading for an AR or any automatic or lever action gun. Otherwise, for bolt actions and when you only have one gun in that caliber I strongly recommend only neck resizing.
 
Strongly recommend the Lee Factory Crimp Die with your pistol ammo. It gets the crimp set correctly very easily and the best part is you don't have to worry about case length variation. Trimming pistol brass could be a real pain--we all shoot so darned much of it! With the FCD you don't need to worry--you'll get great crimps and post sizing which pretty much guarantees the round will chamber.
 
+1 what benedict said about the Lee factory crimp die. I recommend picking it up in the Lee Deluxe 4-die pistol set. I've been very happy with my 4-die sets in 9MM. So happy, I'm switching over to the 4-die Lees in .45ACP and letting go of my Hornady .45ACP sets.

Dave
 
I have the exact same setup, and realized within 15 mins of trying to load my .357 rounds that the priming arm of the lee turret press would not work for me. It means manually handling primers, which is not good for either the primer or myself :rolleyes: Also, I would drop 1 primer for every two that I managed to place correctly

So I invested in the Lee hand primer tool, very inexpensive and lets me prime very cleanly. The only thing you have to do is disassemble your sizer die and remove the primer punch from it. So I usually deprime and prime brass in a separate step, then I size, load powder, seat bullet and then crimp using the lee factory crimp die.
 
No it doesn't. I experimented with depriming using the lee sizing/depriming die and then removing the shell to prime, and the rhythm of the work didn't seem right to me. Plus I like to tumble and clean my brass, which It's much better to do so after depriming. So I bought a cheap lee hand press with a depriming die. I deprime a big batch of brass using it, tumble & clean them, then prime them. Then I use the turret press for the rest of the steps for each cartridge.
 
Cabelas has a great deal on the RCBS tumbler, you get a good discount and a Cabelas gift card. If you get a tumbler a rotary media separator is VERY nice to have.

Also the RCBS Primer pocket cleaning brush comes in pretty handy.
 
If the safety prime is adjusted properly, which means lined up with the lever prime arm on the RAM of the classic turret press, one should have zero problems using the safety prime with the press. I"ve used both versions now and all it takes is a simple push of the "button" on the arm until it clicks and you have a primer on the lever prime ready to load. Simple as pie. Of course, if you don't or can't get the safety prime aligned properly, you're not going to get this to work.

To me, while the Lee Auto Prime is an excellent tool that I own two of for single stage reloading, but it's not needed and slows down the loading process considerably for the Classic Turret, thereby defeating the purpose of buying an automated advance turret in the first place, which is to reduce time spent reloading per week to a level that fits in with one's schedule. The busier the schedule, the faster a press you need to reduce that time. Of course, you can also factor in shooting quantity needs, etc.

The Safety Prime works as well as the Auto Prime. You just have to get it lined up out of the box with the lever prime arm. You do this and you've got a setup designed to provide you 200 rounds plus an hour. Put on a clean case, operate the machine, pull off a loaded round. No other off press operations necessary.

Just my .02,

Dave
 
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one thng you missed.

You should get a bullet puller. I've made a few mistake loads, and just set them aside because I didn't have a puller. Finally I picked up the Hornaday Cam-Lock Bullet Puller (#050095)from Midway. It's sized and threaded to fit the Lee press, and you just slip in a different collet for a different caliber. It also takes only a little pressure on the handle to grip the bullet enough to extract it, leaving almost no marks on the projectile. It'll run you a little over $25 for the puller and one collet, but it's helpful.
 
JonB if you'll check out Cabela's Classic Cast Turret Press kit for 149.00 it comes with just about every thing you should need to start and you have a better press than their aluminum turret. It's worth the extra money. I also would like to say I agree with the other guys who have recomended the 4 die set with the FCD. Thats a purchase that I believe you won't regret. Happy reloading.
 
One thing I would not be without is a QUALTIY powder scale, be it electronic or balence. Spend the money and get a good one.

I also stopped using a lube pad a long time ago and bought a cheap cookie sheet and use Midways Minute Spray Lube for lubing my cases that need it.
 
Don't forget the auto-disk riser ....needed to clear the safety primer.

I got the Lee scale and was actually impressed by it's design and quality of manufacture.

I also got the Lee zip trim and it's pretty darn handy. I mounted it to an old cutting board and just clamp it to my bench with a woodworkers spring clamp.

get a powder funnel .... for re-filling a case after you check your charge on the scale.

the Cabella's package was THE best deal going two weeks ago....I think it may be on back order now.

F&M Reloading and Wideners are also very good.

F&M orders are drop shipped from Lee....so have them check stock status at Lee so you get it all in one box (mine did) and don't pay shipping twice.
 
JonB,

I may get flamed on this post but the only crimp you should ever use on your 10 mm is a taper crimp because automatics require the case for head-spacing.

http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/crimp.cfm
Taper crimping is the best choice for any firearm which headspaces on the case mouth. Cartridges intended for use in self-loading pistols, such as the .45 ACP, should never be given any type of crimp other than a taper crimp. Because of the method of headspacing on the case mouth, a slight ledge must be left to provide positive positioning of a chambered round.


The purpose of crimping is to prevent the bullets of any rounds in the magazine from moving when you fire off a round. Your .223 doesn't need to be crimped either because the bullets do not weigh enough to reposition in case and the recoil. I never crimp mine for my AR nor do I crimp 22-250.
 
Idano,

No flame here, but the Lee Factory Crimp Die is a taper crimp for the 10MM. It's just a "better" mousetrap than the standard taper crimp and is included with the deluxe four die set, so it'x very affordable as well. You should check these FCD's out. You may find they're pretty nifty like I did.

Regards,

Dave
 
Another Classic Turret Kit Supplier--Kempf Gun Shop

There are other dealers offering a Classic Turret Kit now--this one is a better deal IMHO--

http://www.kempfgunshop.com/products/reloading/leeprecision/kits/KempfKit.html

The Kempf family are all shooters--cowboy action types--and they all reload. They are most helpful and their prices are great. It's also nice to help a small gunshop stay in business. The business is over 50 years old. We need to support folks like this.
FWIW
 
benedict,

I agree it's a Kempf kit is a better deal, with the caveat you make sure and click the button to upgrade to the Pro Auto Disk powder measure and add the safety prime large/small primer kit as well.

While the auto disk is "ok," it just isn't as nice a powder measure as the Pro and for the 10 bucks more, the Pro Auto Disk will do a better job. I wish they'd decided to include the Pro Auto Disk to start with.

I am also disappointed to see they don't offer the large/small primer combination kit on the page with the press kit. The way they've got it setup on that page, you end up paying $32.00 for what is basically a $23.95 safety prime kit combination (on their website in another location) if you're not paying attention to details.

Were I ordering from them, I'd go to the primer page and get the combination safety prime large/small kit with my order instead of just the single primer setup and save myself $8.00, which is about enough to pay for shipping.

I'm also glad to see other retailers stepping up to offer this setup as a kit with options that beat the standard Lee kits.

Dave
 
Dave in Georgia

I agree totally--I have sent your message on to them. I only point them out because they are trying to compete with the big guys--my guess is that your comments will trigger some positive response from them.:cool:

Yesterday I set my Classic Turret up single stage--I had loaded a bunch of .45 ACP that were a tad too long for a new gun we have. I reset all the bullets and then ran 'em through the FCD again. It was kind of fun--crank up the radio and get everything the way it should have been in the first place.

My point? The Classic Turret is very versatile--run it auto-index or single stage, your preference.:D
 
Dave,

If the Lee Factory Crimp Die does a taper crimp how can it be any better then the Hornady or for that matter any other taper crimp die? Also, does the Lee Factory Crimp Die clear the ejector wire on your Hornady AP or did you have to grind them down a little?
 
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To answer the last question--Lee FCD will taper crimp or roll crimp for pistol, and post size the round so it will always chamber. I don't know what the Hornady does. The Lee die is standard size and should fit any press with standard threads.

The FCD for rifle is different, as I understand it. It only works on the neck of the cartridge with kind of a collet-style action. Others will have to comment on the rifle aspect.

As to pistol, I wouldn't be without it because you just plain ignore case length variation--seat the bullet and then run it through the FCD and shoot it! I have shot thousands of rounds in 9mm, .38 Spec., .357 Mag. and .45 ACP, all crimped as appropriate with the FCD.
 
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