Just got a used Smith 637 with a TON of lead build up in barrel. So after much Hoppes 9 and elbow grease its all clean. However, the Hoppes got onto the clear (lacquer?) finish and ate it up! So I removed all of the finish. Since its an Airweight (aluminum alloy) should I worry about rust?
Aaaahhh! Removed finish from SW 637
- Thread starter jkcal436
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If the aluminum was properly made, no. The only annoyance will be getting aluminum oxide on your hands during extended use but the gun isn't going to dissolve on you. Aluminum oxide is a lot like gun bluing in terms of protection except for the fact that it is self replacing. If you want to replace the finish, spray on polyurethane will do the trick just fine since you're just trying to protect the passivation layer.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
S&W will not replace the coating on their Airweight revolvers for free and the cost to re-coat the revolver is WAY too much to bother.
BTW, from what I'm told it really isn't the Hoppe's #9 that removes the clear coat, it's the combination of Hoppe's #9 and the brass brush. I removed some of the clear coat on my M638 that way but so far none of the finish has come off my M642 since I switched over to using a hard nylon brush with Hoppe's #9 on that revolver.
BTW, from what I'm told it really isn't the Hoppe's #9 that removes the clear coat, it's the combination of Hoppe's #9 and the brass brush. I removed some of the clear coat on my M638 that way but so far none of the finish has come off my M642 since I switched over to using a hard nylon brush with Hoppe's #9 on that revolver.
In my case, it was Hoppes only. The entire right side of the revolver's finish came off in sheets. The brush did not touch the outside.
I would prefer to leave it as is. I like the way it looks w/o the finish. But, if I must put some kind of protectant on it...is there some paste or something that can be reapplied after each cleaning?
I would prefer to leave it as is. I like the way it looks w/o the finish. But, if I must put some kind of protectant on it...is there some paste or something that can be reapplied after each cleaning?
Brian Williams
Moderator Emeritus
Try a light application of Johnson's Paste wax.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
jkcal436,
I wasn't talking about a bore brush, I was talking about the brush that looks like a tooth brush. I used one around the forcing cone and took all the finish off in that area. I haven't heard of the finish coming off in a sheet. That really stinks... The cleaner must have gotten under the finish somehow and loosened it all up at ones. Sorry to hear that happened, wow...
I wasn't talking about a bore brush, I was talking about the brush that looks like a tooth brush. I used one around the forcing cone and took all the finish off in that area. I haven't heard of the finish coming off in a sheet. That really stinks... The cleaner must have gotten under the finish somehow and loosened it all up at ones. Sorry to hear that happened, wow...
The ideal finish would be sealed hardcoat anodize. There are two problems I see. First, it would have to be done by an outfit that has an FFL. Second, the pins are a dissimilar metal and I think that would be a problem.
If you are willing to spend for a good finish, I can recommend Black T or one of the Robar finishes. If it just a carry gun it will be fine as is. Just keep the newer detergent type cleaners off it. Aluminum doesn't like caustic stuff or acids.
Use a Lewis lead remover for the barrel and a good synthetic clp like Weapon Shield for the rest.
If you are willing to spend for a good finish, I can recommend Black T or one of the Robar finishes. If it just a carry gun it will be fine as is. Just keep the newer detergent type cleaners off it. Aluminum doesn't like caustic stuff or acids.
Use a Lewis lead remover for the barrel and a good synthetic clp like Weapon Shield for the rest.
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