AAC Blackout reloading?

[prickett]

Hi,
I'm about to buy an AR-15 but shudder at the thought of reloading for it on my progressive press due to the amount of force - and the requirement to lube the inside of the mouth with mica - necessary when reloading .223. So, looking at the very slight shoulder of the AAC Blackout (and thinking its an interesting caliber anyway) would those cases be easier to reload on a progressive press? Would I still need to lube the case mouth?

TIA

 

[cfullgraf]

I load my 300 BLK on a single space press but I could do the following.

I would still resize and load in separate operations which would allow me to trim and clean the cases between resizing and reloading. During resizing, I lubricate the mouth on every third to fifth case.

I trim only the cases that are over 1.368". This is usually about 25 to 30 percent of the total.

Among other reasons, I do not like handling primers and powder with hands sticky and gooey with case lubricant. A personnel idiosyncrasy.

Loading cleaned and prepped cases on a progressive would be a snap.

I do not know what increase in force you are talking about. There is no excessive force required to process 300 BLK cases.

 

[jmorris]

Get a bottle of Dillon lube and a few pumps for each hundred cases is all you need.

The force required is not that much different but you will have to make two passes. You'll have to deprime/size then trim before you can load them up.

 

[prickett]

Sorry Chuck, my original message was unclear/incomplete. I'm wanting a comparison between reloading .223 and 300 Blackout. .223 is a bear to resize. I'm hoping the 300 Blackout, with a MUCH smaller shoulder, is not.

 

[jmorris]

Loading cleaned an prepped cases on a progressive would be a snap.

Yes, with a progressive loading the prep is still have the work, best case and if you don't also prep with a progressive it's more than half the work.

Loading them is all down hill.

 

[cfullgraf]

Sorry Chuck, my original message was unclear/incomplete. I'm wanting a comparison between reloading .223 and 300 Blackout. .223 is a bear to resize. I'm hoping the 300 Blackout, with a MUCH smaller shoulder, is not.

I do not find 223 Remington a "bear to resize". Properly lubricated, inside and out, it is really no more difficult than anything else, slicker than sn*t to use a colloquialism.

I guess I do not understand your issues, sorry.

P.S. I do load handgun and sometimes 223 Remington on a progressive, but i do separate resizing from loading.

 

[rjrivero]

With lube, I have no issues forming 300 BLACKOUT on my Dillon 650. I size the .223 without an expander ball, then cut and trim to final length, then load them as normal with the loading toolhead. Cake.

 

[Walkalong]

I size .300 BLK on my LNL progressive and the sizing force is minimal. It is as easy or easier than .223, and .223 is quite easy.

 

[Elkins45]

I load 300 blackout on a Lee Pro 1000, but I don't always resize on the press. If I'm loading cast (which is usually the case) I size separately and use a neck expanding M die in the first hole. I find it very easy, and the Pro 1000 isn't exactly a powerhouse.

I have loaded many, many .223 rounds on my Pro 1000 and I never found it a bear to resize. That was back when I was still making my own spray on lube consisting of a pump spray bottle filled with the Lee case lube wax diluted with water. If you are finding it to be a real effort then I think you might want to do some troubleshooting to see if there's something adding extra friction to the system.

 

[hentown]

Hi,
I'm about to buy an AR-15 but shudder at the thought of reloading for it on my progressive press due to the amount of force - and the requirement to lube the inside of the mouth with mica - necessary when reloading .223. So, looking at the very slight shoulder of the AAC Blackout (and thinking its an interesting caliber anyway) would those cases be easier to reload on a progressive press? Would I still need to lube the case mouth?

You just need to be better informed. You don't need to lube the inside of the case necks, with mica or anything else!! Just lay the brass down in a box and spray with case lube (the spray bottles, not the aerosol). The lube will migrate around the case.

Get an RCBS X die for sizing. You only trim the first time, to 1.740", then trimming's a thing of the past.

A lot of force is NOT needed.

What is needed is for you to get a better source of information!!

 

[Walkalong]

If .223 is a bear for the OP to load, my first thought would be lube related. Proper lube in the right place and it should be easy. Not enough lube can truly make sizing a bear, or stick a case.

 

[highlander 5]

Depending on the die set your using you can get a carbide expander ball for RCBS and Redding dies,other companies may offer the same item but I'm not sure of that. As far as resizing sound like you need to lube the cases better or try a different lube.

 

[Jeff H]

If .223 is a bear for the OP to load, my first thought would be lube related. Proper lube in the right place and it should be easy. Not enough lube can truly make sizing a bear, or stick a case.

+1. I would also add that the inside of the cases don't need to be lubed with mica or anything else exotic. If you are using a spray lube, plenty will get inside the neck just by spraying the brass. If you are using Imperial wax or other similar lube, just scrape a tad off your finger with the edge of the case every 3-4 cases and you will be fine. To be honest, I never noticed issues in 223 with neck lube, I see that more with 30 cal brass with long necks like the 30-06. .

 

[Hondo 60]

I, too, don't understand how 223 is difficult to size.

I use a mix of lanolin & rubbing alcohol.
It makes for very easy resizing/depriming.

After they're sized, I trim if necessary & tumble a 2nd time to remove the lube.
I use tiny sized corn cob to prevent the flash hole from getting plugged.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/521055/econoline_526040g-40_40_lbs_blast_media

Then load on my progressive press.

 

[bluetopper]

Non-stick cooking spray is what I use for case lube for both .223 and necking up 223 cases up to 7mm TCU. I can't see where 300 Blackout would be any different.
Loading is a breeze on my Hordady LNL.

 

[rg1]

I'd say yes you need to lube the necks of 300 BLK brass especially when forming your cases from .223 brass. It takes more force to pull the expander back through the .30 caliber necks than .223 necks but with the small shoulder of the 300 BLK brass I don't think the chance of pulling the shoulder forward is as great as with .223 and the brass is thicker at the shoulder area. I've only used .223 brass to form my .300 BLK brass. I use Hornady's 300 BLK die with an eliptical expander and lube inside the neck with Dillon lube applied with a nylon brush.

 

[3006mv]

if you use an aerosol or alchohol base lube or even the Lee stuff you have to let it dry first. I use Imperial sizing wax and about every third case i wipe the inside case mouth a bit and that is enough to lube the expander ball I use both Redding and Hornady die sets (300 Whisper) and have never had any issues. I use single stage presses, not hard to do at all.