Added LnL; what to order besides press?
- Thread starter Bang!
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I used the plain old grease that came with the el cheapo Harbor Freight grease gun (or was it a Walmart grease gun that came with the grease?). I don't think it matters. My press is around 7 years old and I load about 10-12,000 per year and I've regreased it maybe once or twice just because that grease ring on the piston started looking pretty dark but the press still moved smoothly.
thomas15
Member
I waited 9 months after the box appeared under the tree. During that time I accumulated everything I needed to have a workspace that is humble yet highly functional. Prior to that I had a bench that left a lot to be desired.
Yes it was strange at times to be sputtering along on a turret press while a progressive sat in a box only feet away. I'm glad I did it the way I did though because if I had set it up at a temporary home it probably would have stayed there for years.
Yes it was strange at times to be sputtering along on a turret press while a progressive sat in a box only feet away. I'm glad I did it the way I did though because if I had set it up at a temporary home it probably would have stayed there for years.
bbqreloader
Member
very jealous!! Didn't have the finances to buy this last sale, hopefully another sale soon.. Add a post on how your set up goes, in the mean time i'll just keep buying a litte here and there for the press until it goes back on sale
A question. Did I order the wrong stuff--I got "gun cleaner and lube" to clean all the parts as per the Hornady videos. But the guy in the video is using some that said dry lube. Is this the same thing or will it work?
And will other products work as well? I have Ballistol, will that work?
And will other products work as well? I have Ballistol, will that work?
springer99
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thomas15
Member
Is it Hornady one shot gun cleaner/lube? This is the stuff. Also, the powder measure is a bear to clean. I would advise you to get a bottle brush from the dollar store and scrub the dickens out of the measure using hot water and dish soap. Use gun patches to clean the tubes that attach to the powder drop. Rinse and repeat several times. Then finish with the one shot to keep from rusting. Don't use brake cleaner.
One Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube (red cap) is what you should be using to clean your dies...remember to remove rubber O-rings before you clean. When it drys, it leaves a "dry lube" in place.
If you want, you can clean with 95%+ alcohol, but you'll have to apply a separate dry lube. Do not use Ballistol
One Shot Case Lube (black cap) is used to lube your cases before resizing. It also drys to the touch.
It really is important to clean your powder measure thoroughly with something that isn't going to leave a sticky residue on the inside surfaces. I sprayed mine with One Shot cleaner/lube. Don't worry about lubing the parts that come into contact with the powder, the graphite will serve as lubrication for them
If you want, you can clean with 95%+ alcohol, but you'll have to apply a separate dry lube. Do not use Ballistol
One Shot Case Lube (black cap) is used to lube your cases before resizing. It also drys to the touch.
It really is important to clean your powder measure thoroughly with something that isn't going to leave a sticky residue on the inside surfaces. I sprayed mine with One Shot cleaner/lube. Don't worry about lubing the parts that come into contact with the powder, the graphite will serve as lubrication for them
I washed my powder measure, rotor, & powder insert with hot soapy water to clean off the preservative. It worked fine - I didn't quite have it dry enough when I put the insert back together. If you use hot water - make sure it is bone dry before putting it back together.
WOOO HOOO!! It's here. Fed Ex man just left. I've opened it and drooled a little. I'll start cleaning and assembling in a while. My dies won't be here til Monday or Tuesday but that's ok. It will give me time to go slow and set it up properly.
If you're going to add reinforcement under the primer seating punch, I'd recommend a nickel over a washer. It is harder and won't deform as easily
I had to remove material from under the primer seating post. the primer seating punch was coming into contact with the housing and starting to lift the primer before the plate could index. This would basically jam the primer against the bottom of the case before it could index and align with the primer pocket.
In order to get complete indexing I had to pause at the neutral position for a moment before continuing to seat the primer.
By removing about 0.015 from the housing where the primer punch seats it allows the plate to fully index before the primer starts up and I can run a much smoother cycle.
In order to get complete indexing I had to pause at the neutral position for a moment before continuing to seat the primer.
By removing about 0.015 from the housing where the primer punch seats it allows the plate to fully index before the primer starts up and I can run a much smoother cycle.
Usually plate indexing is adjusted with the two screws located on the linkage under the ram...they raise and lower the engagement of the pawls to the rotating star under the ram.
One pawl adjusts plate rotation during the upstroke, the other adjusts it during the downstroke, it is in the instruction manual...also in the highboy Youtube videos
One pawl adjusts plate rotation during the upstroke, the other adjusts it during the downstroke, it is in the instruction manual...also in the highboy Youtube videos
Yes, I know. Adjusted those, could not adjust them to fully index the plate before the primer jammed the case.
I'm sure there is a tolerance stack up that bit me on this press. It runs fine now, no hesitation or pause needed at neutral, no hang up on the primers.
I'm sure there is a tolerance stack up that bit me on this press. It runs fine now, no hesitation or pause needed at neutral, no hang up on the primers.
I haven't started yet, so maybe once I get going I'll see what I want to do, but let me get this straight.
Some need to add something under the punch, some have to take away material from the press body, and some (highboy) say to leave it alone, the dimple doesn't hurt anything.
I'll just have to wait and see....
Some need to add something under the punch, some have to take away material from the press body, and some (highboy) say to leave it alone, the dimple doesn't hurt anything.
I'll just have to wait and see....
Yes, wait and see. I've never heard of anyone else having to remove material under the primer seating post. There is no way you could have added material and had a functioning unit though. I spent a couple hours with a depth micrometer measuring things and trying to diagram where things were before I started grinding things off.
There are videos out there about how to adjust the pawls. Look for them and understand what the pawls do and how to adjust them before you mess with them.
You may not have to touch them from factory.
There are videos out there about how to adjust the pawls. Look for them and understand what the pawls do and how to adjust them before you mess with them.
You may not have to touch them from factory.
thomas15
Member
I have 15K probably more through my LNL since last September and I haven't put anything under the primer punch. I have been aware of that fix but mine works fine. One thing I did do was place a .004 shim under the drive arbor, this helped solve a difficulty with the auto-eject of the finished round.
I used regular grease on the zerk fittings but if I had white lithium lube I think that would be better for me. I have my press in an unheated garage and when it's 20 degrees out there it makes the press a bit stiff. I solve that by placing a small heater next to it for an hour before I load.
As others have said you can adjust the timing of the shell plate by adjusting the prowls. Make very small adjustments, a little goes a long way.
Keep compressed air, a small can or compressor if you have one near by to blow off the lose powder that falls on the shell plate. Place a lock washer on top of the flat washer under the cap screw that holds the shell plate to the arbor.
Never force the press handle. If you meet resistance stop and find out the problem. It is almost always between station #1 and #2. If you don't fully seat your primer then it will bind the shell plate so the only remedy is to unscrew the shell plate until you can remove the offending case.
I had a friend over tonight who loads on a rockchucker and wants to get a progressive and he loved my LnL. It's a great press.
I used regular grease on the zerk fittings but if I had white lithium lube I think that would be better for me. I have my press in an unheated garage and when it's 20 degrees out there it makes the press a bit stiff. I solve that by placing a small heater next to it for an hour before I load.
As others have said you can adjust the timing of the shell plate by adjusting the prowls. Make very small adjustments, a little goes a long way.
Keep compressed air, a small can or compressor if you have one near by to blow off the lose powder that falls on the shell plate. Place a lock washer on top of the flat washer under the cap screw that holds the shell plate to the arbor.
Never force the press handle. If you meet resistance stop and find out the problem. It is almost always between station #1 and #2. If you don't fully seat your primer then it will bind the shell plate so the only remedy is to unscrew the shell plate until you can remove the offending case.
I had a friend over tonight who loads on a rockchucker and wants to get a progressive and he loved my LnL. It's a great press.
Get a few extra decapping pins that are used to push the primers out.
Hornady will send these to you for free. But if you don't have a spare, you're dead in the water unless you can rob one off of another sizing/decapping die.
Get a few extra case retaining springs.
Both of these, don't ask me how I know.
Chip
Hornady will send these to you for free. But if you don't have a spare, you're dead in the water unless you can rob one off of another sizing/decapping die.
Get a few extra case retaining springs.
Both of these, don't ask me how I know.
Chip
Ricochet Rabbit
Member
Good afternoon all. If you purchased a Hornady LnL classic(or regular press), isn't it a single stage press that uses shell holders instead of shell plates like the LnL
AP. Maybe I got my ducks out of whack.
AP. Maybe I got my ducks out of whack.
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