Adding a hammer to Taurus model 85

[94pos]

Before I chuck this thing in the trash...I have a taurus model 85 stainless steel with the concealed hammer. I can't hit anything with it reliably, the combination of the 900,000lb trigger, 4ft of creep and no reset..it sucks. My Colt cobra has a hammer and I am deadly with it.

Does anyone know if I can add a hammer to this taurus? Is the hammer interchangeable with the hammered models??

Someone please help!!!!

This is what it looks like

 

[indie]

before you chuck it in the trash. ill take it!

 

[94pos]

Wow, how ironic. When I lived in Augusta GA I actually purchased this Taurus in Columbia, SC....I was living in Aiken and working in Augusta, thus dual citizenship...

I now in NJ. Armpit of the USA. If you own guns, don't even come in this state. It's sick.

 

[94pos]

Anyone?

 

[Glockman17366]

I think you can, but I'm not sure if it's worth the cost.

Now, you'll have to do some work. Go to www.Taurus.com and look up the model 85. It's been superseded by the 850 and 851 models, but they look pretty much identical. IF you have the manual that came with your's, it'll help. There are links to the manual on the bottom of the page.
Anyway, compare the parts shown in the manuals. I think you'll need item 24 (which is the hammer assembly for the 85).

I'd suggest you get an estimate from a gunsmith. The Tauruses have a hammer lock...so, unless you know what you're doing...it's not a job for an amateur.

It might make more sense just to sell it and buy an 85 with an exposed hammer.

 

[Rube]

Before I chucked it, I would try to purchase a spurred hammer from someone like e-gunparts.com. It appears they are around $30. Maybe a call to Taurus would be in order to help identify the correct replacement part.

 

[joab]

You should be able to but there may be other parts that need replacing
CH85s have no full or half cock like regular 85s have

 

[The_Shootist]

Trigger

I have the Model 85 with hammer in blued version and am surprised at your comment about the heavy trigger pull. While not a Smith trigger pull, it seesm ok.

Mind you, I bought mine used, so possibly somebody already did all the work smoothing it out for me

 

[Old Fuff]

The despurred hammers start life as a conventional one. So yes, you can exchange the present one for a regular one. It may or may not be necessary to change the trigger, depending on what kind of single-action pull you get, and the new hammer may, or may not necessarily drop in.

Hammers and triggers, as well as other parts, may be available from www.e-gunparts.com, and of course Taurus has them.

No model 85 series hammers have a half-cock or safety notch on the hammer face. Only a full-cock notch on the conventional hammer. They eliminate the full-cock notch on despurred hammers to prevent someone from getting the hammer cocked, and then have no safe way to lower it.

Generally speaking, the double-action trigger pulls are these guns are equal to, of better then those on S&W J-frame revolvers. However neither brand is likely to be as good as your Colt Cobra, which has a "V" leaf mainspring, rather then a coil one. If pocket or ankle carry aren't part of your plans, also consider an S&W K-frame snubby. They are much easier to shoot then the smaller J-frame and Taurus models.

 

[joab]

They eliminate the full-cock notch on despurred hammers to prevent someone from getting the hammer cocked, and then have no safe way to lower it.

Cool cause I want to go the other way

 

[Old Fuff]

I think if you go to a hammer with a cocking spur they'll let you have a full-cock notch...

As an aside: I purchased a model 85 Ultra-Lite, with a conventional hammer because at the price offered it was too good of a deal to turn down. I later discovered that it is the only snubby with a regular hammer that I can draw from a pocket holster and not have the hammer get hung up. A first I couldn't believe this, because it went against previous experience. But at this point I've practiced enough to be convinced that it works.

Do not try this with a loaded revolver until you confirm beyond doubt that what worked for me will work for you. A good pocket holster is a MUST!

 

[Glockman17366]

"As an aside: I purchased a model 85 Ultra-Lite, with a conventional hammer because at the price offered it was too good of a deal to turn down. I later discovered that it is the only snubby with a regular hammer that I can draw from a pocket holster and not have the hammer get hung up. A first I couldn't believe this, because it went against previous experience. But at this point I've practiced enough to be convinced that it works.

Do not try this with a loaded revolver until you confirm beyond doubt that what worked for me will work for you. A good pocket holster is a MUST!"

I've had the same experience with the same gun (although mine is called a Multi-Alloy: Aluminum Frame, Titanium Cylinder and barrel shroud)...but I find there is less problem if I use a holster that covers both the trigger and hammer. A Mikas holster does this. A Galco does not cover the hammer spur.
I also have less wear on the cloth of the pocket with the Mikas.

This is a gun I have with me at least 80% of the time...in the house or on the road.

 

[Old Fuff]

My holster also covers the hammer spur and trigger guard. But other S&W and Colt snubbies carried in similar rigs tended to snag the hammer spur in the upper/front cornner of the pocket when the revolver was drawn - which is the reason I used bobbed hammers or guns with enclosed hammers. For some undetected reason the Taurus is different in this respect.

 

[.45Guy]

I have both for Mrs. .45's 85. It's just a matter of pulling the sideplate and throwing it in. Takes about 10 minutes max.

 

[winddummy]

Wolff Springs

Order a set of wolff springs and it will make a world of difference. I changed mine on a taurus ultra-lite titanium and have had no problems.