Adding fire protection?

[rbernie]

There's been a spate of safe/RSC fire protection related threads lately, and it raised a question in my mind. Assuming that I already have a gun safe with an intrinsic heat transfer and smoke barrier capability, how would I go about modifying the safe and setting up the environment around the safe to make the overall package as fire-proof as possible?

 

[CB900F]

Rbernie;

Thermal protection isn't rocket science. If you put more, denser, or better yet more and denser, material between the heat source and what you want protected, you get better protection. Also, removing any high-energy fuel sources from the immediate area will make the increased protection easier to achieve.

The problem with trying to increase the thermal resistance of an existing container usually lies at the door. It's not too hard to surround the other five sides with cinder block, etc. But that leaves the door in it's original configuration, which may not be the best for your purposes. OTOH, if you do surround the current unit with cinder block, then only a little extra planning & material is required to put a door frame in the block room you've just built and attach an additional door that offers increased thermal resistance.

But, did you just spend more time, effort, and money than it would have cost to sell the current unit & buy a true safe? That's a question only you can answer. Another thought is if you are going to the trouble of building the little room to hold an RSC that you have, why not simply build a bigger room & put a vault door on it? I understand that that's not practical in all cases, but it may be in yours.

I've stated more than once on this site that sheet rock is a good flame barrier, but it's not dense enough to provide good thermal transfer resistance. Personally, I don't recommend going that route, although it's easier & cheaper than cinder block with concrete.

Feel free to PM me with any questions.

900F

 

[Ohio Gun Guy]

You could put it in a closet that you construct with multiple layers of drywall or masonry. In construction terms these create UL tested assemblies, typically rated in 20 min, 30 min, 1 hour, 2 hour, and 3 hour. There are all sorts of ways to accomplish this. For more information google "rated wall assemblies", etc.

Shaft wall assemblies may give you the most usable details, as they typically are geared toward accessing the construciton from 1 side (Work your way out). It's not really that complicated, its basically stacking layers of drywall, an air gap and additional layers. It's important in fireproofing to use "Resistive"/ rated materials and seal all joints, gaps, etc.

 

[a1abdj]

Aside from doing anything fancy, the safe placement itself can make a huge difference.

For example, garages can be a great place from a fire standpoint, but they could also be the worst. Basements rarely get hot (around here), but if they are not a walk out, can fill up with water. First floors are better than second floors. Placing the safe against a concrete wall is better than placing it against a wood wall.

Just like people tend to make safe buying decisions using emotions over reality, they tend to place them in the same fashion. They may place a safe somewhere because it looks good, even though that may not be the best place from a fire or security standpoint.

 

[fatcat4620]

plate it with drywall and then put some more drywall on it.