Advice for cleaning an old stock

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Perhaps I overlooked it, but did anyone point out exactly why a dishwasher harms a stock. Water, mild detergent, and heat??? What is damaging about that?

I have never noticed a problem and I have used that method for about 15 years on 20 + rifles. I just hang the stock in the garage loft for a few weeks to dry, steel wool the whiskers off, and BLO or tung finish it and it looks nice. Steams out minor imperfections too.
 
Perhaps I overlooked it, but did anyone point out exactly why a dishwasher harms a stock. Water, mild detergent, and heat??? What is damaging about that?
My concern is warping from the high heat and humidity. I'm not a wood worker and I imagine it likely doesn't make a difference but I don't like thinking the dimensions of my rifle's stock might be altered.
 
Soy, the heat is only applied for about 10 minutes, using the drying stage of the dishwasher. Guys that are worried about cracking the stock don't use the drying stage, although I never actually met anyone who had one crack by using the drying cycle,(more internet myths, I think). The hot water evaporates out of the stock pretty fast once out of the dishwasher. Like Coyotehitman, I hang mine up for a few weeks to make sure all moisture is gone before sealing it with Tung. One more tip... use a 50/50 mix of Thinner to Tung oil (or BLO)for your first coat or two, as it will soak way down into the grain, effectively sealing it. Then go ahead and use straight Tung oil (or BLO) to fill in the surface pores. I sand lightly with 180 and then 220 grit between coats. Like I said before, I refinish my shooters so they look good, and I actually shoot them. I dont buy collectors, but I still do take it easy sanding around cartouches, as to not remove them.
 
From a purely utilitarian perspective, BLO and plain Tung oil are poor sealants. They're better than nothing, though not that good. More modern products are much better at sealing and protecting the wood.

BLO and Tung oil are the traditional military finishes from the WW-II era and before. This tradition is the only reason they are still used. If you want the original military finish, then use BLO.

An improved finish is BLO and beeswax. This is an old, traditional furniture finish that is only available at specialized woodworking stores. It gives results very close in appearance to plain BLO, though the wax gives more protection from water. It also takes at least as much time & effort as plain BLO.

The more modern finishes (Tru-oil is one) have modern polymers mixed with the Tung oil or Linseed oil (BLO). These finishes do a MUCH better job of sealing and protecting wood, though they were generally not available until after WW-II.

Unless you are doing an original restoration, I recommend one of the modern finishes.
 
Busted!

dfariswheel

I once asked a state forestry wood expert about using oven cleaner to clean wood. He had several Phd degrees on wood.
He gave me a long explanation about how the chemical damages the wood, and why it should never be used.

I also saw several valuable old rifles that were badly corroded by oven cleaner.
Remember, when you put something ON wood, it also goes IN the wood.
What goes IN, eventually leaches back OUT.
The oven cleaner leaches back out of the wood and attacks the metal, corroding it badly.
This may take some time, and the first sign of trouble is when you notice rust working it's way up from the wood line.


As I wrote, this is testable. A difference between science and pontification is leg work and testablilty.

I retrieved a 1945 Long Branch No 4 Mk1* that I cleaned with oven cleaner in 1993. This rifle was a complete glob of grease when I purchased it. This rifle is as close to NRA excellent as I have seen a Lee Enfield. The surface finish is extraordinary for a military rifle; I cannot tell if the finish is matte blue, or a very fine parkerization. Obviously some parts are blued: the clips on the handguards.

All the metal parts that could be removed were taken off, every inch of the wood was sprayed with oven cleaner, every inch coated with oven cleaner brushed with a toothbrush. Before anything dried, the oven cleaner was removed with a garden hose (“hose pipe” in Southern!) . It took several spray, brush, and hose treatments to get to clean wood. I made sure that I thoroughly washed the exterior with water. Might have finished with soap and water. Don't remember.

Please note that metal handguard clips were not removed from the handguard.

The next step was drying. I probably used a blow drier to dry the wood. I also probably went over the wood with a very fine steel wool, avoiding as much as possible stock markings. This is what I typically do, maybe I let the stock dry in the shade, this was 15 years ago.

After that was complete, every wood surface was coated with raw linseed oil. That linseed oil was the only wood protection applied.

The rifle was assembled, taken to the range, zeroed, cleaned, and put in the attic. It has been exposed to the vagaries of an attic envirnoment of hot, cold, moist, dry for 15 years.

I saw no evidence of “leeching” of oven cleaner. I saw no evidence of rust. I saw dried linseed oil on metal parts, I still saw some grease in the corners of the metal clips. And the copper rivets showed a little green corrosion. Which could have been there since 1945.

I conclude that the Forest Ranger, with several Ph’d’s in Woodlogy was totally mistaken. The wood is in great shape, the metal in great shape, but given eternity and beyond, the rifle, he, and all of us, will be ashes.

But until then, I am not worried about oven cleaner residue damaging this stock, or the metal parts.

ReducedLongBranchLeeEnfieldfullleng.jpg

Full length view

ReducedNo4Mk1LongBranchrightreceive.jpg

Lots of finish, no corrosion around receiver

ReducedNo4Mk1LongBranchbreechend.jpg

No corrosion underneath handguards


ReducedNo4Mk1LongBranchInsidelowerh.jpg

No corrosion and the wood looks just fine

ReducedNo4Mk1LongBranchinsideupperb.jpg

Inside of lower band, absolutely no evidence of corrosion due to "leeching"

ReducedHandguardclipinsideNo4Mk1Lon.jpg

Blued metal clips in fine shape

ReducedHandguardupperclip2No4Mk1Lon.jpg

No evidence of corrosion around handguard clip

ReducedMagazineopeningNo4Mk1LongBra.jpg

No corrosion around magazine well, trigger guard taken off later, no corrosion
 
The "glue" that binds the fibers in wood is called lignin and is an organic polymer. It is what causes newspapers to yellow when left in the sun, by the way. The fibers are different in different woods, but in hardwoods are something akin to hollow leggos stacked on each other and bound together. You break down the lignin to get pulp in the kraft method of paper-making (resulting in long, courser fibers and is common in brown paper bags or cardboard).

Ash
 
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