Again black powder conversions (for dummies)

[fosterobe]

OKAY its probably an old question. I want to use converters for two reasons:
1. To shoot my blackpowder revolvers for fun without cleaning up all the time.Cowboy ammo? Is it really black powder?
2. To carry when I'm out in the woods for protection (bear).I like to hike in the wilderness a lot. No I'm not interested in hunting with them. I purchased them all from Cabelas!

I have the following Krist converters:
1. Ruger old army (an excellent pistol)stainless steel purchased about 1998
2. a Uberti colt dragoon (purchased about 1998) 44 cal (It says western arms on the barrel)
3. Pietta 44 Remington stainless steel (purchased about 1998)
4. I have purchased the Krist converters for each. But not the ejector for the Remington.
5. What ammo for each can I use for both of the intended purposes and where can I purchase them (for each pistol)? I guess If they don't work I can club the predator with it. I like their weight!

 

[the Black Spot]

converters are recommended for use with cowboy ammo. doesn't mean it is black powder, although you can get it that way. cowboy ammo is on the low end of the velocity department. wouldn't recommend it for bear, but if that was my only choice, i would get the heaviest bullet available offered in cowboy ammo.
i have read of 45 colt loads with a 255 grain semi wadcutter and 4o grains of black powder, this bullet was shot through a cow with the 40 grains black as propellant.
your ROA would handle this load i am sure.
anyway, for what it is worth.

 

[robhof]

Even with the ROA, which is a tank of a B/p gun, stay away from magnum or hot loads. I've loaded 35gr of tripple 7 and 250 gr bullets and it's plenty hot enough to take deer at bow ranges. The 35 gr 777 is about the same as 40 of real b/p.

 

[unspellable]

The ROA will take any factory load. The rest of them I would hold down to cowboy level loads. I can't speak for the Kirst, but the R&D cylinder is proofed with standard 45 Colt proof loads.