I have found Wonder Wads lacking in lubricant, over the years.
With Wonder Wads and their dry lubricant, the last couple of inches of the bore toward the muzzle are fouled.
With the same wad lubricated with Gatofeo's No. 1 Wad & Bullet Lubricant, the bore is clean all the way to the muzzle.
I started shooting cap and ball revolvers about 1970. Started using greased wads, per Elmer Keith's instructions, in the early 1980s. About five years ago I found the 19th century recipe for what was later dubbed, "Gatofeo's No. 1 Lube ..."
I made up a batch and soon realized I'd blundered onto an exceptional lubricant. It beats anything else I've tried over the years.
The recipe may be found in my post, "How to Best Use a Cap and Ball Revolver."
Stick to the recipe of mutton tallow, canning paraffin and beeswax. No substitutions! Anything else results in a decidedly inferior lubricant and lesser results.
I live in the remote Utah desert, where temperatures can easily reach 110 Fahrenheit (43.5 Celsius). In these conditions, I've had to put a lubricant over the ball, as well as use the wad between ball and powder.
But in most instances, a greased wad works fine.
When it's that hot, the humidity is very low. At such low humidity and in such high heat, the barrel gets very hot in short order. The felt wad doesn't carry enough lubricant to keep fouling soft, in these conditions.
But in conditions up to 100 degrees or so, the greased wad works fine.
What do I use for over-ball grease when needed? I like CVA Grease Patch, in the black and white squeeze tube. Sometimes hard to find but very good. I haven't tried Bore Butter because I have an ample supply of the CVA stuff, but I hear it's good.
Heck, plain ol' Crisco will in a pinch but in that high heat it's messy. It wants to run over everything. Keep a rag handy.
I've found best accuracy with black powder, in FFFG granulation. Pyrodex is okay if you can't get black powder in your area because of shipping limitations. Hodgdon 777 is good but, as has been pointed out, a little more energetic.
Hodgdon recommends no more than 30 grains equivalent in the stout 1858 Remington. I've fired this and it's all you need.
In a Colt 1860 I'd certainly use no more than 25 grains. I've tried a few cylinderfuls of it in my Colts but decided it may be straining the gun. Not worth it, when all I do is perforate paper and tin cans.
Resist the temptation and any advice to use more than 30 grains of 777 in the Remington .44. All things being equal, cap and ball revolvers are weak by design, not by their materials.
If you want a Magnum, buy a modern cartridge gun. Magnumizing cap and ball sixguns is a foolish endeavor.