destroyerbear
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- Jul 14, 2009
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- 30
ive got a s&w .45 colt im lookin to refinish. its blued and has a little bit of rust on it and im wantin to put a bad@$$ finish on it, not blued. any help will be appreciated
any good ways of taking off bluing?
- Thread starter destroyerbear
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patrolman
Member
I'd recommend naval jelly as a chemical remover, or sandblasting as a mechanical remover.
Your refinishing plans may dictate the method of removal....
Your refinishing plans may dictate the method of removal....
mcdonl
Member
I have learned to stay away from chemicals on aluminum unless they are made to work with aluminum. I have also learned as patrolman eluded to... a lot depends on what you plan to do to it. If you are going to use something like gun kote (Guys like RCmodel and SAM1911) indicated that you do not need to remove the blue to get an excellent finish.
I am re-finishing a mossberg 500 and decided not to remove the blue, to just sand it smooth and prep it for paint.
Now, if removing the blue is something you WANT to do. I just removed the blue from a revolver using perma blue's rust and blue remover and it was awesome. $13 got me a kit with the remover, degreaser and enough blue to do a couple handguns.
I am re-finishing a mossberg 500 and decided not to remove the blue, to just sand it smooth and prep it for paint.
Now, if removing the blue is something you WANT to do. I just removed the blue from a revolver using perma blue's rust and blue remover and it was awesome. $13 got me a kit with the remover, degreaser and enough blue to do a couple handguns.
The thought that you might be talking about removing the factory blue from a Model 25 because it has a little rust on it and so you can "put a bad@$$ finish on it" makes me cringe.
I'd try gently rubbing with 0000 steel wool and gun oil first. If that removes the rust, oil the gun and leave it.
Now it's your gun and at the end of the day you're free to do what you want, but what you're describing sounds like a good way to turn a $700 gun into a $200 gun.
mcdonl
Member
That alone does wonders.
Jonah71
Member
When I was a kid, I tried using carburetor cleaner on one of Dad's guns. I got it clean alright. All nice & shiny in places when I got through. So was my a%$ when he got through.
Rex B
Member
I just posted about evaporust. Should be right below this one in the index.
it's The Answer.
it's The Answer.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Pay attention to what Natman told you in post #5.
A bubba refinish on almost any S&W is going to cut it's value a bunch!
IMO: There is no finish you can do at home to a S&W .45 Colt that won't turn out costing you money in the long run!!!
Try nothing stronger then 0000 (Extra Fine) steel wool & oil to remove the rust and get back to us!
Whatever you do, don't dip it in vinegar or anything else that removes bluing.
rc
A bubba refinish on almost any S&W is going to cut it's value a bunch!
IMO: There is no finish you can do at home to a S&W .45 Colt that won't turn out costing you money in the long run!!!
Try nothing stronger then 0000 (Extra Fine) steel wool & oil to remove the rust and get back to us!
Whatever you do, don't dip it in vinegar or anything else that removes bluing.
rc
orionengnr
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- Jan 3, 2005
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- 5,712
Go back and read post #5 carefully.
Then read post #9.
Sleep on it. If you still are bound and determined to destroy your M-25, go to GunBroker, GunsAmerica, S&W Forum and price them.
If you want to turn a $700 revolver into a $200 POS, that is your perogative. Just make sure that you do it with your eyes open.
Then read post #9.
Sleep on it. If you still are bound and determined to destroy your M-25, go to GunBroker, GunsAmerica, S&W Forum and price them.
If you want to turn a $700 revolver into a $200 POS, that is your perogative. Just make sure that you do it with your eyes open.
For Steel -
If thoroughly de-greased first...immersion in dilute ( say, 50/50 with Water - and, add the Acid to the Water very slowly) Muriatic ( Hydrochloric) Acid, will remove all Blueing and all light Rust in about one second.
All usual Acid cautions apply...of course...
Neutralize by agitated immersion in a stout solution of regular Baking Soda and Water...heat and rub dry immediately...only touch with tongs or with Cotton Gloves on, since any finger moisture or ambient humidity will cause fine oxidation very fast.
If thoroughly de-greased first...immersion in dilute ( say, 50/50 with Water - and, add the Acid to the Water very slowly) Muriatic ( Hydrochloric) Acid, will remove all Blueing and all light Rust in about one second.
All usual Acid cautions apply...of course...
Neutralize by agitated immersion in a stout solution of regular Baking Soda and Water...heat and rub dry immediately...only touch with tongs or with Cotton Gloves on, since any finger moisture or ambient humidity will cause fine oxidation very fast.
navyretired 1
Member
Better to mechanically remove rust, then do "Bad@$$" finish that way you have double protection of metal ie. Bad@$$ and blueing.
If finish envolves paint, disassembly and glass beading removes blueing very nicely while leaving impossable to get at areas protected.
If finish envolves paint, disassembly and glass beading removes blueing very nicely while leaving impossable to get at areas protected.
bead blasting? quite simple on a peice like that. Take 20 or 30 mins. I pretty much bead blast before any type of finish. If i blue it then i would run over it with steel wool to polish it but thats it. If you want to parkerize it or put a ceramic coating on it then dont worry about the polishing.
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