Anybody casting 38/44 slugs?

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Walter64

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I've got mostly wheel weights and plumbers lead but can't seem to locate tin.
What would be a good source for tin. Bar solder really went up in price so I'm hunting for a cheaper source. Any help would sure be appreciated.
 
I've got mostly wheel weights and plumbers lead but can't seem to locate tin.
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Wheel weights have enough tin in them to take you to around 1100 fps without excessive leading.

You could cast those and then continue your search for tin to mix with your plumbers lead, unless of course you are going for smoking hot loads.
 
I like straight wheel weights lubed with liquid Alox -- easy to use, and shoots well in everything from my '03A3s to my .45 Colt, .38 Special and .45 ACP loads.
 
I like straight wheel weights lubed with liquid Alox -- easy to use, and shoots well in everything from my '03A3s to my .45 Colt, .38 Special and .45 ACP loads.
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Are you just tumble lubing everything you cast then, Vern?
 
Yep. For rifle rounds, I tumble lube and dry, then apply a press-on gas check and tumble lube again.
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Interesting.

How about pistol rounds. Are you tumble lubing stuff that normally is lubed in the lube rings only?

I ask because I have done just that before and didn't experience any major problems. In fact, I suspect it may be a more superior way to lube a bullet.

I use White Label Lube Co's liquid X-Lox, which is thicker than BBQ sauce. Much cheaper and every bit as effective and definitely thicker than Alox.
 
Are you tumble lubing stuff that normally is lubed in the lube rings only?
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Yep. The only downside I see is the need to frequently clean your bullet seating die -- the Alox rubs off there and accumunlates.

I ask because I have done just that before and didn't experience any major problems. In fact, I suspect it may be a more superior way to lube a bullet.
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Same here. In fact, my double-lubing rifle bullets showed me that by adjusting the lube thickness, you can lube virtually any bullet with Alox.
I use White Label Lube Co's liquid X-Lox, which is thicker than BBQ sauce. Much cheaper and every bit as effective and definitely thicker than Alox.
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I'll have to try some.
 
Yep. The only downside I see is the need to frequently clean your bullet seating die -- the Alox rubs off there and accumunlates.
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Have done many of the Lee tumble lube .45 230 grains. For as fast and easy as they are to cast and lube, they function quite well. It seems to me that some are turned off by them because they don't have neatly filled lube grooves. But for practice inside of 25 yards, I don't see the need for anything fancier.

Same here. In fact, my double-lubing rifle bullets showed me that by adjusting the lube thickness, you can lube virtually any bullet with Alox.
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I think it might actually be superior because the entire bullet is coated from the get go, rather than just sitting in the lube grooves. Why more guys aren't open to this method is beyond me. I think it's a mental thing more than anything. Having a "properly" lubed bullet, shiny brass, etc. Then again they say you have to have faith in your ammo.

I'll have to try some.
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http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/

$10.50 for a 32 ounce bottle. A substantial savings vs. Alox. It's also twice as thick as Alox. Their lube sticks are also very affordable in comparison to other brands.

I have used white label lube products for everything and it seems to be pretty good. Put about 2,000 rounds of .45 LC down the pipe and suffered very little leading at all.
 
Have done many of the Lee tumble lube .45 230 grains. For as fast and easy as they are to cast and lube, they function quite well.
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I have a 6-cavity mould for that bullet and have cast, lubed and shot literally tens of thousands of them.
 
I have a 6-cavity mould for that bullet and have cast, lubed and shot literally tens of thousands of them.
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I have a couple of those molds as well in six cavity. I have never used a Lee, or any other mold for that matter, that will throw bullets as fast as that particular mold. I barely need a wood mallet for those, they just fall right out. Definitely the way to go for high volume casting/shooting.
 
Missouri Bullet Co.

Walt, if you're looking for something to alloy the plumbers lead with, Missouri Bullet Co. http://www.missouribullet.com/index.php has linotype for a very reasonable price plus offers THR members a 5% discount ( http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=481718&highlight=THR+Discount ). I bought a box of it & if I didn't have a hundred pounds or more of it already plus several hundred pounds of wheelweights I'd buy more. You never know how long it will have to last you... :scrutiny:
 
Maj Dad. Thanks much for your input regarding Missouri Bullet Co.

I think I'll just go ahead and place a order with them for some of their bullets
and alloy.

Thanks again,

W.
 
I use wheel weight lead to pour .32s, 9mms, .38s, mild .357s, .44s, and .45s. Most get dropped from the mold into a bucket of water for a little bit of additional hardening. All are Lee Tumble-lube types and get the full recommended Lee tumble-lube treatment.

That White Label stuff sounds interesting, though. I may have to pick up a gallon or so and try it.
 
I agree with Vern. And the White Label Lube is great. I use only wheel weights and have had no problems for over 10 years. Lee dies,bullet moulds are the way to go for me. Had a 22 hornet stick in a sizer and broke the primer end off the case. Sent it to Lee with 4.98 for shipping back and a week later got a new replacement. Pat
 
I cast 180gr, .430 diameter wadcutters using wheel weights and Alox lube. Excellent results and worth the added die cleaning chores due to the Alox.

At mid-range velocities there is enough tin in the wheel weights to leave very, very little leading in my gun.
 
Just pick up a pound of plumbers solder at the supply house. It usually runs App $13 a pound and is 95% tin. Plus most has flux in it. Electrical solder is a little cheaper at abt $8 a pound and is 50% tin
 
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