Anybody shooting their 38 S&Ws?

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SaxonPig

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Not the 38 Special, the older 38 S&W? I found a source for factory ammo at $18 a box but I load my own using .358" lead bullets. Even played with some 125 JHPs in the Terrier getting them up to 975 FPS from the 2" barrel (putting the shine on the wimpy +P in the process- +P goes under 900 in my snubbies).


This Victory Model was used by a German PD after the war. Town was in Saxony meaning it was carried by a... wait for it... Saxon pig. Sorry, had to say it.

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Same year as me...

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Got this at a local show for $100. Way too much fun. But it should say 1943, not 1843.

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Occasionally, and in particular an old Colt Police Positive. Colt called the cartridge the .38 Colt New Police or the .38 Colt Police Positive, but both are in all-important respects identical to the .38 S&W.

What makes the Colt different then other revolvers chambered in .38 S&W is that the barrel and chamber throats were made to .38 Special specifications. This means that if you hand load the round you can use standard .358 diameter bullets rather then the usually called for .361 size. The only requirement is to switch a .358 neck-sizing plug into your .38 S&W loading die.

So all of those 110 to 200 grain high performance bullets that some are so hung up on can find a new home.

Colt's Police Positive (not to be confused with the larger Police Positive Special) are generally not in demand, and can be found at less then reasonable prices. Barrel lengths run 4, 5 and 6 inches as a rule, and the cylinder holds 6, not 5 cartridges.

After World War Two Colt dropped the Police Positive, and offered the Police Positive Special in .38 S&W/Colt New Police. They were not especially in demand and are seldom found. However if you do find one at a reasonable price jump on it.

In both revolvers most D-frame/.38 Special speed loaders work fine.
 
I've shot mine years ago. The grips were way too small for me to shoot accurately with it.
 
I have a merwin & hulbert .38 small frame revolver,
I also have an lgs with .38 S&W rounds on hand.
I've thought briefly about putting the two together, but then I check the lockup on the M&H
nahhhhh, don't think so, lol
 
I shoot mine. Lots of fun.

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I traded this one. It just didn't fit me.
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not me...but I am REALLY happy that the old girls are still being used.

Keep up the good work.

After all, if a gun is not shot, it is no longer a gun.
 
LOL... My Perfected Model Smith was made in 1914. I've owned and carried it since 1982. The Bisley is a custom built "parts gun." Oh well - I got a pre-ban ivory stocked Colt for a fraction of what an original in that condition would have brought.
 

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W.E.G.


Me thinks what you have is a 38/32 Terrier (pre-model 32).

It was likely built on the Improved I frame with a coil mainspring. Earlier pre-war ones had a flat mainspring. Cylinder length = 1.250". Post-war production had a positive hammer block, where pre-war guns didn't. Post a serial number and maybe we can sort things out.
 
I'm loading 38 S&W ammo with a .360" H&G #512 170gr bullet. (sorry for the poor pictures) I also sometimes load some 38/200 rounds with a Lyman #358430 just because I want to. That bullet is also .360" and while both shoot well I really like the 170gr bullet best. The 200gr bullets seat too deep in such a small case while the 170gr bullets have a short base below the crimp groove even though they were not specifically designed for the .38 S&W.

Here are the 170gr bullets:

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Here are the 200gr bullets:

200grLRNFP.jpg
 
W.E.G.:
That should be an I Frame .38/.32 Terrier or Pre-Model 32, Not a pre-Model 36.

Edit: Should have read the whole thread Old Fuff beat me to it.
 
I have a Regulation Police from the mid 20's and a Regulation Police from 1953; "I" frame and "Improved I" frame respectively. I cast .362 dia. bullets from Ideal molds of designs originally for the cartridge. I size them to .361 and load to factory duplication pressures/velocities and have a great time with the beautiful little revolvers. Truly; they don't build 'em like that no more!!!!!!
 
38 s&w

I have several, a Victory like pictured that I shoot the most. Also a newer j-frame 2" Terrier and a Model 31? I believe 4" j-frame that I have shot a bit too.
I like these bullets and find they shoot very well in all I have tried.
I use Trail Boss powder as I find it works great for light loads of lead in every caliber I try it in.
It just does not seem to smoke at all ?
It must not get as hot or something, I know it is mostly just the lube, but it is annoying at the indoor range I shoot at.

Missouri Bullets

38 S&W

.361 Diameter

145 Grain RN
Brinell 12
For .38 S&W

Price per box of 500
Price: $33.00
 
Not really. Wish I had the time to shoot my Webely pocket model and S&W .38 bankers special.

Deaf
 
I shoot an old Webley now and then just for some amusement. The gun is quite roughly done. It's marked "wartime finish." Still it has some character and functions fine. I bought some factory ammo to harvest brass and the thing would hardly hit paper at 10 paces. When I pulled one round down, I found the "factory" had loaded 0.355" bullets. That's right, 9mm. Bought some 0.360" slugs from Matt's bullets and it does much better.
 
Where did you find .38 S&W for $18 a box? That's .38 spl prices around here, with .38 S&W, when you can find it, north of $28 a box.

I have an Enfield Number 2 Mark 1** that I don't shoot as often as I'd like to.

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Is it typical to reload .38 S&W without a crimp? The factory Winchester loads appear to have a crimp, although it is difficult to be sure from the photo.
 
I crimp my cast bullets for both of my revolvers chambered in 38 S&W. The bullets I cast from 4 different Ideal molds designed for the 38 S&W all have a crimp groove and crimping in the groove makes for a cartridge of the original design outside length specifications. A light crimp is all that I use, it makes an attractive, effective cartridge.
 
I am the current "care taker" of my father in-laws Colt Police Positive .38 S&W. I've found factory ammo for it on two different occasions and both occasions a 50 round box went for well over $40. I bought one box to have the brass to reload, then months later I found that I could get brass and bullets from Midaway! Since then we've shot the gun on many occasions and is a jump back in history. This gun originally belonged to my Father in-laws father who carried it back in the 50's and 60's when he was a security guard for a parking lot company here in Seattle. He told me that he bought it used from a shop and paid $20 for the gun, leather holster, and 50 rounds of ammo. My father in-law has no connection with guns so that is why I am the "care taker" ;)
 
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