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Anyone ever have a problem taking their Ruger Mk II Apart?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by coop923, Dec 23, 2009.

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  1. coop923

    coop923 Member

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    I'm not proud of saying it, but I went years without taking my MkII apart mainly because it kept working and I didn't want to mess with it. After literally thousands of rounds I thought I ought to do a good thorough cleaning, but I can't get the mainspring housing out. Actually I thought it was about to free up and pull out, but I was wrong and now I can't get it back together either. Any suggestions?

    -Mark
     
  2. skyflyer

    skyflyer Member

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  3. coop923

    coop923 Member

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    Great video, but the "give the pin a tap with a non-marring dowel" part isn't working for me. It doesn't seem like I should have to use as much force as I'm using. It still isn't moving.
     
  4. wgaynor

    wgaynor Member

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    Aaargh....what painful memories. Mine was a Mrk III 22/45 and it was one of the worse things I've ever had to do. Taking it apart was a pain, but that was because I had to take out the magazine or insert it or something or other... I finally read the manual. Then, when putting it back together, I didn't understand why and how to tip it one way and then another or it wouldn't work. I ended up throwing the pieces in a box, went to bed, woke up the next day and finally figured it out.

    Once you do it once, you will never forget how to do it.

    Check out this site http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/field_strip.htm
     
  5. MICHAEL T

    MICHAEL T Member

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    I can get mine apart but not back together. Ruger could correct this But their nothing for them to copy from
     
  6. Flyboy73

    Flyboy73 Member

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    just got a used Mark II target. Not sure if they ever cleaned it, as it was pretty dirty.

    I have had no luck disassembling it. I can't get the main spring housing out. After taping it repeatedly with a plastic punch, no luck it won't come out.

    Anyone else have some suggestions? Maybe some penetrating oil?

    Brion
     
  7. tekarra

    tekarra Member

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    Taking it apart is easy; putting it back together is an exercise in frustration. Mine will never come apart again.
     
  8. Zilmo

    Zilmo Member

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    My gunsmith laughed when I asked him about it. He told be to just spray the hell out of it, clean the barrel, dry it off, and go shoot it some more.
     
  9. wilkersk

    wilkersk Member

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    AAAAARRRRGHHHHH!

    Fire your gunsmith!

    The only problem with Rugers is that they were actually designed with the idea that they'd OCCASIONALLY be taken apart to be cleaned and yes, they to need quite a bit of force from a non-marring hammer to get them apart!

    They aren't hard to take apart, or re assemble. You just need to sit down and figure out how the insides work in order to figure out how they go together.

    Honestly, They're easy once you've done it a time or 2.

    If I had a dollar for every time I hear or read about someone who's Ruger Mk I/II/III has 1st round FTF, last round FTF, or "shoots like crap" or someone who's friend said never take them apart, I'd be rich.

    .22LR ammo can foul up the pistols designed to shoot it real quick! Its pretty dirty ammo, and the pistol parts are small and light compared to their bigger brothers. .22s have to be cleaned!
     
  10. GunsAreGood

    GunsAreGood Member

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    I believe that is only true with the Mark series. Other Ruger's take for instance the SR9 is VERY easily disassembled and reassembled with no tools what so ever. The reason for the more often FTF is because of the ammunition not the gun. I recently learned that .22 ammo has more FTF than center fire ammunition. It makes perfect sense if you think about it. The volume of ammunition you are shooting is much higher when it is .22 compared to
    .
     
  11. msb45

    msb45 Member

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    Few things come to mind:


    • Be sure the hammer is at rest.
    • I'm assumiong you used the paper clip to release the spring, but you have to really rotate it away from the grip and pull down.
    • I agree with the poster saying you need to have 1-2 cycles to get the method, using some CLP to reduce grit will help.
    • When assembling the housing remember to tip up the barrel and pull the trigger to get the trigger linkage in position to swing the mainsrping housing back in successfully.
     
  12. wilkersk

    wilkersk Member

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    Yeah, I realized I didn't specify "Mk" series pistols and figured someone would call me on that.

    As far as FTF problems in .22LR, I don't think "volume of ammunition" is the whole story.

    Look at the parts on a rimfire semi-auto. the slides are light-weight. The actions are "blowback" with fixed barrels. The magazine springs are very light and the followers have a much higher ratio of "gliding" surface area to load bearing area, compared to larger center-fire pistols. All this means that rimfire pistols are affected to a higher degree by the build up of crud in the moving parts. If you've ever cycled your .22 and wondered why the round just doesn't get stripped off the mag, or the round tips down into the mag tube before the rim gets past the taper of the feed lips, you've seen the proof of this.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2010
  13. John Wayne

    John Wayne Member

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    I have the same difficulty. For the time being I'm doing just fine blasting it out with brake cleaner every now and then...I have never actually taken it apart. It doesn't seem to mind though :D
     
  14. atakawow

    atakawow Member

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    You DO NOT need to field strip your pistol to clean. I had a ton of trouble taking/putting it together. So once I got it together, I vowed to never, ever, take it apart again.

    Now, all you need to do to clean is:

    1) Pull the bolt back and engage the bolt catch.

    2) Give the inside of the pistol (through the ejector) a few blasts of compressed air.

    3) Repeat step 2. This time use a solvent spray can. I use CLP Breakfree with great success. Don't spray too much, 2 should do it. If that stuff is dripping from your magazine well, you used too much.

    4) Optional step. Use a Q-tip dipped in CLP or solvent to clean the hard to reach places inside your pistol. Again, optional.

    5) Run through the bore with a boresnake or boreworm with a bit of CLP or solvent once or twice.

    6) You are done. The whole process takes less than 5 minutes.

    Most important thing is, DO NOT OVER CLEAN. If it ain't broke, it doesn't need fixing. Just shoot the crap out of your Ruger and only clean when it begins to show signs of failure.

    ATK.
     
  15. CZ223

    CZ223 Member

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    Everyone

    who has ever taken one of these apart has had trouble, especially putting it back together.:evil:
     
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