Anyone Refinish a K-31?

[BenW]

I'm in the stock prep phase of refinishing a beech K-31 right now. I can't decide if I need to put a light stain coat on before I start in with the tung oil. I'd like to make the stock look similar to the original finish.

Anyone refinish a beech stock K-31 before that can clue me in? I've done several walnut Mausers in the past and have only applied tung oil, but this beech of a K-31 stock is playing tricks on my old eyes.

 

[joe4702]

Link

Check this link out.

Good luck.

 

[Dave R]

This link doesn't have recipes, but lots of good motivational pictures!

I'm leaving my K-31 stock "as is." I like the character.

 

[BenW]

Thanks guys. I figure I can experiment, and if I screw it up, I have a few more rifles to practice on.

Dave -- I do leave most of my C&Rs alone, but like to practice refinishing on some of my more dinged up specimens. The relaxation and enjoyment I get out of doing the work more than makes up for any value loss for me. I'm definitely leaving the K-31 with the ID tag alone though.

 

[Dave R]

Ben--no problem with refinishing surplus rifles. User's choice. I 'tolerate diversity.'

 

[blfuller]

I refinished my K31's stock that I got for Christmas. I used chestnut ridge military stock stain then I sealed it with several coats of teak oil and finished it off with Minwax neutral finish paste wax. Looks very nice.

 

[Atticus]

I refinished this one. It was REALLY beaten up. I stained it with leather dye and sealed it with a mix of boiled linseed oil, bee's wax, and turpentine (equal parts of each). Is is beech.

 

[Powderman]

Have not worked on a K31 yet, but I did my Swedish Mauser stock.

First, I removed all of the old finish--just used Zip Strip, three go-rounds, and 24 hours of drying between treatments.

Next, I raised the few small dents with a few thicknesses of damp towel and an iron.

After that came hand sanding, starting with 220 grit all the way through 600 grit.

When that was finished, I used Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil. I just used my fingertips and applied one coat to the entire stock, a few drops at a time. Just rub until the coat dries under your fingers.

I dewhiskered after the first two coats with 0000 steel wool; a light wipe across the grain did the trick. Use only new pads for each session.

Then, 8 more coats, hand rubbed, allowing 3 days to dry between coats. After the 4th coat, you will see the stock start to really gleam. By the 8th coat, I had a hard, high gloss finish. What I liked was that the Tru-Oil fills too, eliminating one step in the process. I used a vacuum with a brush to get all the sanding dust off the rifle stock prior to refinishing.

 

[Jake in TX]

Try this link:

http://p077.ezboard.com/fparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforumsfrm34

It is mostly for returning the stock to original condition.

Jake in TX

 

[CentralTexas]

Tactical K-31

The one I got had a really rough stock so......
I got out the spray bedliner and I think it looks great, YMMV.
CT

 

[Shrinkmd]

Anyone use the Miles Gilbert kit?

I got it because it has a little of everything you need, but it says for walnut, and I'm pretty sure my stock is beech. (Take a look at the pics, what do you think?) I know all about the 50-50 amber shellac and BLO for the "correct" finish.

Question is, if I follow the directions in the kit and use it anyway, with the walnut filler and all, will it come out awful looking, or just not authentic?

 

[cracked butt]

If you put wood filler in big gouges they will stand out even if the filler matches the wood fairly well.

I'm another believer in the Shellac/BLO concoction its what I use on my k-31s. I'm more concerned about protecting the stocks than I am about trying to make them look like new- sanding and adding a finish that isn't original to a rifle looks pretty obvious to collectors.

The shellac/BLO finish is actually a somewhat crude version of French Polish which is used to finish stocks on high grade custom guns. The idea is that the BLO lubricates the wood so that the shellac can be applied in a very thin even layer without the bubbling or other flaws that occur with shellac if its simply painted on.

 

[dolanp]

I used amber shellac on mine, I think that's pretty close to the original finish. I didn't sand it too hard though, so most of the dings and dents are still there. I like the character.

 

[-C4-]

I haven't refinished my K-31, but it may makes its way to the list. Right now I am working on my M24/47 and my Ishapore Enfield. Mostly because they were so heavily damaged and cosmoline soaked. So far I have used Bartley's Gel Stain and then Varnish (on the Enfield) and Birchwood Casey TruOil w/ Stain (M24/47). I can post pictures if anyone is interested. The Birchwood is basically Danish Oil which yielded a VERY nice solid as a rock coating. It does look a little glossy, but it also looks good. The Bartley's also came out really well, but required less work. I had to sand a between the TruOil coats which I didn't really have to do with the Bartley's. I plan on trying Lauers as well as a boat varnish on my next ones. I am just curious how well the boat varnish will hold up... Anyways if anyone wants pictures just let me know.

-C4-

 

[Ad Astra]

After seeing Atticus' red stock and that black one, I'm less worried. Planning to steam mine but good, don't want to sand the cartouche off.

My beech stock is orange-y, and I was thinking a walnut stain would change that in a bad way. Seems like beech would take any new color well. But it's not (yet) a collectible, and a color change would get the uglies off. Maybe primer-gray?

Or a snow-white K31?

 

[hayseed]

equal parts boiled linseed oil and Zinsser(sp?) Orange shellac will get you darn close to the original color.

 

[Essex County]

I basicly did what Hayseed did and I an quite pleased. You'll never make a Wheaterby buts that's O.K...........Essex