It's been my experience that once I've zeroed my sights, no matter what the variety, on a .22 RF for the load it likes I seldom need to change it. I choose the range figure where I reckon I'll do most of my shooting with that particular weapon, zero it there, and do enough shooting at intermediate and longer ranges to know approximately where it'll hit and shift my POA to compensate.
I've long since ceased to compete in formal bullseye matches, so the need for frequent minor corrections to compensate for changing range conditions like light shifts or positional issues really doesn't apply.
Target knobs are handy when you anticipate making minor adjustments frequently, but they are also more susceptible to inadvertent change in routine handling, storage and transport.
Micrometer, or "click" adjustments are nice to have too, but not strictly necessary. Again, it's mostly a case of convenience although there are points to be made for relative precision and repeatability of adjustments with them.
The Williams "Guide" series are good, basic receiver sights. I have them on a couple of my rifles and they've given me excellent service. The lack of micrometer adjustment capability has been a non-issue for me, as I haven't needed to rezero any of them as yet. They still hit just where I put them when they were installed many years back. As an alternative to open irons for most hunting and casual shooting needs, they're a good value.
I also have rifles with the excellent "Foolproof" and Lyman 66 on them. FWIW, these are (with the exception of my cherished Marlin M-39M) all in calibers for which I reload and frequently try different components. While the click feature does speed things up somewhat, it really doesn't add anything in the way of precision. I could make an argument that the simpler and less expensive 5-D or Guide actually have a slight edge in absolute precision due to not being constrained by 1/4 minute increments, but it takes enough more trial and error to get that last little bit to make it moot, at best.
IMO, you might be surprised at just how accurate that $150 .22 can be once you find the flavor of ammo it likes best. Almost any modern .22RF is capable of performing beyond the abilities of the vast majority of shooters with at least a load or two. RFs are particularly finicky about what they'll shoot tightest with, and it takes some experimentation to find out what works best in yours. Once you do, it'll still likely take you a while before your skills outpace the rifle's.
Replacing your front sight needn't be expensive. The biggest shortcut you can take is to do precise measurements once you install your rear sight following the drill in the Brownell's chart and calculate how much taller it needs to be. Choice of bead size and material (brass, 'ivory', fiber optic, etc.) are entirely yours. It can be DIY if you're handy, but a 'smith will do it for a small fee over the cost of the part. Some of them will throw in the measurements and calculation as part of the deal. Check around to determine prices in your area.
In most cases, it's just a matter of pushing the old front out of the dovetail in the ramp or barrel and pushing the new one in. This can be done with a non-marring punch and a light hammer, but care must be taken not to damage the ramp and/or new sight in the process. There are special tools made for the job, but unless you're going to be doing a lot of it, they aren't cost-efficient. Due to differences in tolerances, minor filing to the replacement sight (never the dovetail!) might be necessary. This is generally why it is worth the extra cost for a 'smith, as he's already made the most common mistakes and knows how to avoid them. He'll also have the right tools to do it quickly and with the least chance of damage to your rifle.
As I don't know much about you, I can't really speculate on how well or how long you'd be satisfied with a "$31 sight". If you have serious doubts, by all means take the extra time to accumulate enough more cash and buy a more sophisticated item. It will be cheaper than buying twice, even if you find that you never use some of those extra features. Value is both subjective and relative; only you can decide what the term means to you.
