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AR 15 2nd shot not firing

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franpal

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Apr 28, 2011
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Finally I had the chance to fire my new Ar15 and it is not working properly. The rifle is a RRA 5.56mm, 16'' barrel. I put 2 rounds in the ( magpul)magazine ( winchester 55 gr), put one in the chamber and fired.. it ejected the spent round and loaded the second round... pull the trigger and... click! no shot. So I used another mag and same thing, it only fires the first. I don't think that it's the mags or the ammo.. there is no mark on the primer. Checked firing pin, trigger spring and they are fine, it seems that it has something to do with the bolt carrier.!? Can someone help, any input or sugestions on how to fix this problem? Any help is good, thank you! Frank
 
What kind of AR-15 is it, and-- really important-- did you or anyone change anything on it or make any modifications? If yes, what?

Next question, is the bolt carrier fully forward before you pull the trigger the second time?
 
I'd say strip it down, and strip the BCG, clean out the carrier as you see fit, check the lugs for evidence, there is either something blocking the lugs from locking up, (out of battery) or maybe the pin is obstructed some, possibly the operating spring/buffer is not correct.

In general, strip it down, check it out more before making it a warranty issue, and always good to look under the hood :)
 
Sounds like the bolt did not fully close/lockup. As suggested, inspect/clean and lube. I have seen new builds that would not cycle the first few rounds. There is a coating on the carrier and lugs that needs to wear in. I'm surprised a factory build would not be functioning.
But, lube is your friend on an AR and especially on new parts. Lube (CLP is okay) the bolt rings, the cam pin, bolt lugs, and the carrier. You can see the raised rails on the front half of the carrier that are the contact points. Those should be wet. Then, cycle the bolt/carrier by hand 20 times or so then see if it will run.
 
In addition to lube, when you try it again, give the Forward Assist a whack to make sure the bolt is locking fully into battery.

It apparently isn't now.

As others noted, if you can get it to fire a few times it will probably wear off the rough edges and start working.

rc
 
are you sure there's a "click" when you pull the trigger the 2nd time? sounds like hammer follow is the most likely case. do a safety function check
 
Good point, taliv. If the disconnector isn't catching the hammer, the hammer can follow. That usually results in a boom instead of a non-click:uhoh:
A safety function check is a good idea, always.
 
Like my NCOIC said in the army... GOTTA KEEP IT WET!!! He was talking about everything in my life BUT also referring to my M4.

I agree with everyone here especially looking under the hood. I may have missed it but also change out ammo.
 
Did you disassemble the rifle completely before going to the range (remove the trigger/hammer)?
 
also, remove the 2nd round it loaded and inspect the primer. is there a dent? does it look normal?
 
Thank you all for the replies! I will check all parts and oil them pretty good over the weekend, I'll have a chance to test it again on monday and I'll let you know the results. Also, i'm gonna try different ammo just to make sure. I think the bolt carrier may not have been fully foward. When I do the inspenction check the hammer always clicks.. It's almost like the 55 gr is too weak to pull the carrier all the way back so it fully locks for the next round :/ ?? @ Zak - The rifle is a Rock River Arms CAR A4 with Chrome Lined Barrel, no modifications done. Thanks again! Frank
 
Here's a few suggestions:

- Make sure the firing pin retaining pin is installed correctly.
- Check the gas tube (inside the upper receiver for damage)
- Check the carrier key for damage/looseness

Good luck!
 
Here's the results! Same problem after all the oil I put on it. But this time I was able to pay more attention. Chambered the first round and fired, ejected and loaded next round... pull the trigger but this time I heard no hammer click... so I manually eject the unfired round and loading the next one and it fired just fine and the the next one doesn't fire again with no hammer click... but i checked the unfired rounds and they do have a light fire pin mark on thr primer. I don't know what's wrong, I hope I explained it clear enough 'cause this is all new to me. Does anyone have an idea on what's causing this? Thanks
 
Got to be the disconnecter or trigger allowing the hammer to follow the bolt down after the first shot. In other words, it isn't staying cocked when it fires one round.

I'd get on the horn with RRA and have them send you a call tag for warrenty repair & safety checks.

The little primer dents are normal in all AR-15's, and are caused by firing pin bounce when the bolt slams shut.

rc
 
You're right! The hammer gets stuck on the disconnector ( top part ), I have to push the trigger foward to release it and then I can pull the trigger and it goes. Should I file or sand it down a bit to smooth it out? Maybe put some more oil :/ ??? At least I'm in the right direction : )
 
You know your rifle is semi-auto.....????

If you are holding the trigger expecitng it to keep firing that is not going to happen.
 
That would be nice but I do know it's a semi-auto.. trigger is a bit rough. Maybe I should look into stage 2 trigger or something better.. or maybe it's the carpinter not the hammer..lol
 
Do you know how to function check the rifle?
Have you replaced any parts?
As I asked before, did you disassemble the trigger group?
Check tightness of the carrier key?
 
I thing I do and it all seems in working fuction until I fired the rifle. I haven't replaced any parts. I was about to disassemble the lower ( selector, trigger, hammer and disconector) but as I kept checking the fuction of the trigger I noticed that, when I fire the first shot I don't let go of the trigger quick enough so when the hammer comes back and it locks on the disconnector it stays stuck and by pushing the trigger foward it then releases the hammer from the top part of the sear and then I can pull and it clicks. Not exactly like a pistol trigger :l
 
Ok, first thing you said was new... I wouldn't touch a thing or buy **** until I had a working product. First thing you need to do is return it.
I am sure that RRA has a policy where ship for free. I am sure they want to see it first. I have heard about how good they are, well if they sent out a bunk product, I am sure they want to know about it. It may be a recall or a bad piece. Even if you intend on replacing anything, your replaced item will be garbage that one day you may need. Trade, re-replacement, or comparison piece. So like rcmodel said... get on that horn before you do anything past a field strip.

You may breach your warranty. Be careful.
 
You have it narrowed down to a trigger reset problem - disconnector is not releasing the hammer. Not something that breakin or normal maintenance will solve, but a parts problem. RRA should take care of you.
You may eventually want to upgrade the trigger, which would replace the offending part(s), but I would let the factory get the piece running with their setup first.
 
Today I had no problems, I was tapping the trigger and I put some oil on the trigger and disconector... It was dry. Maybe too excited the first time that I was forgeting to let go of the trigger... Good thing its not a full auto..lol! Well, as you can see I'm new at this but always learning. Now I'm sure that nothing is wrong with the rifle, it needs more ammo through it and thats not a problem.. It's a lot of fun. Thanks for the help. But i'm gonna call Rra just to be on the safe side.
 
Today I had no problems, I was tapping the trigger and I put some oil on the trigger and disconector... It was dry. Maybe too excited the first time that I was forgeting to let go of the trigger... Good thing its not a full auto..lol! Well, as you can see I'm new at this but always learning. Now I'm sure that nothing is wrong with the rifle, it needs more ammo through it and thats not a problem.. It's a lot of fun. Thanks for the help. But i'm gonna call Rra just to be on the safe side.
 
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