AR-15 ... finding zero ... 22LR conversion kit

[tluxtele]

I'm not sure this is the right area... and I'm not even sure exactly how to write my question so please be patient with me.

I have an AR-15 in the A2 configuration. I picked it up used and have never really known how to sight it in? So first of all, can someone direct me to a reliable source where I can learn how to sight in the rifle and how to then use the rear sight to adjust for distances? I've seen some videos on youtube about sighting in at something like 50 feet but then how do I adjust when I'm shooting 100 yards?

Next up, I've taken my 10 year old daughter out shooting twice now (today being the second day). Although I have a 10/22 she much prefers shooting the AR with the 22 conversion kit. At this point she's not really all that concerned with accuracy (and I know we won't get tight groups with a conversion kit from an AR). But, as we shoot more I think she would like to be able to know where she's hitting. Is there any sort of rule on how to adjust sites for this? Once I have the rifle sighted in for 223, should I lower or rase the rear sight to compensate?

Again, I don't know if these questions make sense. I mainly shoot pistols and don't really have someone to teach me all the ins and outs of rifles. Any help you can give will be appreciated.

 

[MistWolf]

The simplest method to zero an AR is to first zero it at 25 yards so the bullet strikes approximately 1.5 to 2.0 inches low at 25 yards. Then, move your target back to 100 yards and zero it at 100 yards so that point of impact is the the same as the point of aim. Zeroing at 25 yards will make it easier to get your bullets on target.

This chart, borrowed from Molon, illustrates what I'm talking about

The only way to know how much to readjust the sights when using the 22 adapter is to actully shoot the rifle with the adapter. How much the sight will change is dependent on each individual rifle and adapter

 

[Wisco]

With the AR15 you chase your rounds with the front sight post and traverse with the rear. If you are hitting low, lower your front sight. If you are hitting left, move the rear sight right.

With an A2 you zero at 25 meters for the elevation knob to correspond.

Google Army Field Manual: FM 3.22.9 RIFLE MARKSMANSHIP M16-/M4-SERIES WEAPONS

 

[MistWolf]

Depending on what rear sight you're using, you might find this useful
https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_18/328143_RIBZ_____Revised_Improved_Battlesight_Zero.html

 

[tluxtele]

Alright. Let's take the 22LR out of my question for a second. If I'm understanding things I will get my rifle to mechanical zero at 25 yards. Then that should have me zeroed in at 300 yards. So what do you do if you want to shoot at 100 yards? Is it all just where you hold? I assumed you would raise and lower the rear aperture for various distances. Do people do that? If so, what are the guidelines for that?

@Wisco thanks for the link. I'm a slow reader but I'm trying to make my way through it. Is what I'm asking about in this particular post covered in the manual?

@MistWolf thank you for information. I'm in my late 30's but have cataracts from chemo so the thought of shooting 300 yards with iron sights isn't my idea of a good time. Once I understand this topic a little bit better... I'll probably be following the advice in that post. 100 yards is doable for me

Thank you guys for helping me out. I know I'm going to look back and this is going to seem vary elementary to me one day. Really appreciate your help.

 

[mjsdwash]

you'll get lots of advice on sight in, I put the upper on a ledge, look out the window at a utility pole, and look through the barrel at it, and move the sites to match. I have found an A2 thats made right usually is fine with the site in the middle. Elevation is dependent on range, that said, you can get decent groups with a 22 conversion, though at 1 in 7 twist, it may be harder. The point of aim for M193 ball loads, and run of the mill high velocity 22 bulk is close enough at 40 yards that no adjustment is needed to hit beercans/clay pidgeons. The standard for 22 is usually 50 yards, so you may be fine.

 

[Wisco]

@Wisco thanks for the link. I'm a slow reader but I'm trying to make my way through it. Is what I'm asking about in this particular post covered in the manual?

The army manual will get you zeroed from 25 to 300 meters. That will place the bullet in a man sized target up to 300. I forget exactly, but that's arcing the bullet 6-9 inches high at some point. It will also cover the 300-800 elevation knob.

Also, if you use the large aperture of the A2 after you zero the small aperture at 25, that should zero you at 50 and be no more than 2 inches high out to 200 where it is on again. It should be marked 0-200

Alternatively you can just zero your small aperture at 50 meters or yards and don't use the elevation knob at all. That will give you a good zero, near dead-on hold from 50-200.

I've used 22 kits, and all have been very usable at 15-25 yards with an AR that was zeroed at 50 with 556 ammo.

All in all, the A2 is a very usable combat sight that gets you close enough and is good enough to hit large targets out to 800 yards.

Something else to consider is a inexpensive red dot on a mount. Zero your irons with rifle ammo. Attach and zero the red dot with 22 ammo. Attach and detach as needed. It'll be close enough zeroed for 22 plinking.

Photo is an example of what I mean.

 

[MistWolf]

@MistWolf thank you for information. I'm in my late 30's but have cataracts from chemo so the thought of shooting 300 yards with iron sights isn't my idea of a good time

This being the case, let's keep it simple. Sight in first at 25 yards. Adjust your front sight so that the POI (Point Of Impact which describes where the bullet actually hits the target) is roughly 1.5 to 2.0 inches below the POA (Point Of Aim which describes where your sight is on the target). This will put your bullets somewhere on the paper all the way out to 100 yards.

Now that you've done that, set up your target at 100 yards. Adjust your sights so the POI mtaches your POA. That is, the bullets will hit the target where you place the sights

When looking through the sights, this is the sight picture you want to see

You want the front sight centered in the aperture. Don't try to look at the aperture. Look through it. This is important.

You want to zero your rifle for either the Center Hold

or the 6 o'clock hold

You have to decide for yourself which works better. I suggest starting with a center hold.

Again, start at 25 yards and adjust your sights to POI is about 1.5 to 2.0 inches below POA. Move your target to 100 yards and a adjust your sights so that your POI is the same as your POA