Question re AR15 .22 conversion kit and iron sights

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OK, I slapped my conversion kit into my AR with irons.

My question is, with the standard A2-type adjustable rear sight, and adjustable front peg, is there or is there not enough adjustment range on these to get the .22s zeroed in at 25 yards? That's an awful lot of height-above-bore to overcome in just 25 yards - anyone know? I'm sure 50 wouldn't be a problem but 25 might, and I want to make this is iron-sights-short-range-fun-plinker.
 
I have a dedicated upper, not a conversion.

It has A2 sights.

I sighted it in at 50 with the rear sight knob at "3". If I'm shooting at 25 or 100, I just crank the rear sight to "4". For 200 yards, I went to "5" the other day, but I was shooting a welding tank offhand, so I'm not sure about exact elevation. I just know I heard that satisfying "clink" often enough to keep me interested.:)

The time delay between "bang" and "clink" was surprisingly long.

The fact that I can hit something about a foot wide at 200 yards offhand with A2 sights is a really strong argument for the dedicated upper IMO. Also, .22LR POI won't be the same as .223. If I'm shooting at a 25 yard range, it's only fun if I can hit the bullseye. I'm not into completely re-zeroing a gun every time I shoot it. With the dedicated upper, I can just keep it zeroed.

Consider the dedicated upper, if you don't mind the extra price. Ammo will soon make up for that. Mine's a Model 1 Sales with a Ceiner bolt, and works flawlessly. Cost me $475.

I can't see buying the same thing for $700, but there are people on this forum who do.
 
I think the trajectory at 25 yards will be virtually indistinguishable from the .223. There shouldn't be enough difference in drop to notice.

Nick
 
I think the trajectory at 25 yards will be virtually indistinguishable from the .223. There shouldn't be enough difference in drop to notice.

That's true, though the real-world result still depends on the sight-in distance of the .223.

.223 also shoots low at 25 yards with A2 sights, of course.

Like I said, a dedicated upper with no gas tube to foul up, and proper rifling for a .22LR, kept zeroed the way you like it, is the best option.

Try posting a question about a dedicated upper. I don't think you'll get a single owner who will say anything but "I love the thing!"
 
Question..... Is a deticated .22lr a .22 upper, or is it a .22 made to look like a standard AR-15?

It's a .22 upper, just like a 7.62x39, 6.8SPC or other upper that uses standard AR parts with a few changes for a different caliber.

Standard AR lower, standard AR upper receiver and all other parts. Only the barrel, magazine and bolt assembly are different. It pops on an AR lower like any other AR upper does.

Go here and you will find them mixed in with the others, listed by barrel type, along with .223, 6.8, 7.62x39. They make M4gery, SBR, 16" CAR, 20" rifle and 20" Bull ("Varmint") versions.

http://model1sales.com/
 
The other big thing about the dedicated upper is that the twist will probably be 1/16, which is the most common twist for .22 LR rifles. The faster (1/7 - 1/9) tend to over-stabilize the short, light, .22 bullets and that hurts accuracy. When using a conversion kit with my 1/9 twist barrel I have to be shooting the 60 gr. aquila's to get decent accuracy (ymmv).


Nick
 
True.

The 1/16" twist allows the use of any common .22 ammo, including the cheap stuff.

.22 is dirty, and you don't just shoot 100 rounds of it usually.

The dedicated upper helps keep that from being a problem, since there's no gas tube to foul up with .22 crud.

Some people just blast it out with a couple of .223 rounds when they're done, but I sometimes use the .22 upper at indoor pistol ranges with velocity/energy limits. Shooting .223 rounds isn't an option.
 
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