AR assembly tool print set for home toolmakers?

[Tallbald]

I'm just beginning to get into the AR platform guns. An AR pistol kit is on the way and I've watched a couple assembly videos. I understand there are a few specialized tools that help in assembly. I'm able to make my own in many cases, but don't know what tools are specific to the platform. Is there free site I can get dimensions from perhaps to "roll my own"? Thanks Don.

 

[Varminterror]

Action block
Barrel nut wrench
Castle nut wrench
That’s it.

 

[badkarmamib]

For the lower, you need a hammer, some punches for the bolt catch pin and to guide the other pins, and a center punch to stake the castle nut. A castle nut wrench is NICE, but, my first build was supposed to be my last, so I drifted the castle nut with a pin punch , and staked it. 3 years later, it is still there. If you plan on doing more than one or two, a combo armorers wrench will pay for itself.

For an upper, the action blocks are nice, I stick mine in the vice between two scraps of hardwood floor. Same hammer and punches, and whatever wrench your barrel nut takes. Some rails use a mil-spec nut, some use a proprietary nut, and may or may not included the necessary wrench. And, whatever your muzzle device and gas block need for install (usually a wrench and an allen key).

 

[Tallbald]

Thank you folks. Don

 

[WestKentucky]

Required tools...hammer, punch, Allen wrench (really long for PG screw) and a vice is really nice to help hold stuff.

An AR armorers wrench does everything, is cheap, common, and does all of the turning stuff except the afore mentioned PG bolt.

 

[boom boom]

Avoid the cheapo military barrel wrench. My guess is though you probably have people around that have these specialized tools already and experience in building them. Rather than buying tools for a one off build, you might be able to borrow or rent the tools that you need and even get assistance on the build. Your local gun store or people at the ranges might know some people to help you out on that.

 

[Rottweiler]

I prefer the Geissele reaction rod to the upper receiver blocks. Yes it is more expensive but ZERO chance of twisting an upper receiver with the rod.

 

[Chuck R.]

I prefer the Geissele reaction rod to the upper receiver blocks. Yes it is more expensive but ZERO chance of twisting an upper receiver with the rod.

I use a Magpul Bev Block to pretty much the same effect, plus it will hold both the upper and lower for misc. tasks. I really would like to get a reaction rod though.

There's a decent review of both here:



I also have a standard upper block as neither the Magpul and Geissele type won't work with a 9mm upper......As for tools, I'm kind of a tool junky, it's one of those things I don't mind spending money on, especially for quality as I know it will last. I use a Magpul Armorer's wrench, it's expensive, but is a solid wrench and will last a couple lifetimes. I've also bought complete sets of roll pin punches and starters along with this:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-trigger-guard-roll-pin-pusher-prod55709.aspx

for doing trigger guard roll pins. A lot of guys don't bother, but I also bought a set of Go/No-Go and a Field Gauge. I've had one bolt to date that closed on a field gauge.

Anybody have any thoughts on a dimpling jig??? It's about to be my next tool purchase and right now I'm looking at an SLR.

 

[mcb]

If your going to go the reaction rod route get one with a lug on top that goes into the slot for the charging handle/gas key. A reaction rod without that can still end up letting an upper rotate separate of the barrel damaging the index pin slot.

Midwest Industries makes a proper reaction rod.

 

[Chuck R.]

Update, bought the SLR Dimpling Jig:

https://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=579

and used it last night to dimple my 1st barrel. Worked like a charm! Used a 5/32" drill bit and drill bit stop to limit dimple depth. Took all of 10 minutes to do, 2 perfect dimples and a properly installed gas block.

 

[mjsdwash]

the only unusual tools I have needed are a 2-0 ream, and castle nut wrench. A 1/4 drill bit with a 1/8 transverse hole drilled in it makes fromt take down pins very easy.. Everything else can be found at a hardware store. A good barrel wrench helps a lot, but having a bad barrel wrench that broke teeth, I had to remove nuts with a standard pipe wrench. Found that the wrench was less damaging to barrel than even a good wrench when some heavy rags were used. 30 years of working on cars has convinced me I know what 30-80ft lb feels like.

 

[mjsdwash]

I see a lot of people taking about the Reaction Rod, and while its clearly a useful tool, does it do anything barrel block in a standard vise/receiver block don't? My block does not correctly fit flat top uppers, and the RR may be an easier option.

 

[WestKentucky]

I see a lot of people taking about the Reaction Rod, and while its clearly a useful tool, does it do anything barrel block in a standard vise/receiver block don't? My block does not correctly fit flat top uppers, and the RR may be an easier option.

Clamshell blocks wrap around the aluminum upper allowing torque to transfer from the barrel nut through the whole upper receiver. The receiver and the plastic blocks will flex some. Usually not a big deal to flex a little, but if there’s a tiny imperfection it can crack an upper receiver. It also put all of the force on the barrel index pinwhich can shear under force.

The reaction rod goes straight to the barrel extension so the only thing under pressure while torquing is the barrel extension and threads. The barrel is held, so the index pin is held, and the upper receiver is loose aside from the barrel extension. It controls forces of torque by design and limits them to stronger and more necessary areas. Less chance of flex, less chance of cracking an upper.

If a man were working on multiple uppers it’s also easier to slip multiple uppers over a RR rather than transferring clamshells from upper to upper.

 

[Varminterror]

If you’re damaging uppers in a clamshell block, you’re doing something very wrong. The reaction rods are great until your upper slips off of the rod or the rod slips in the vise and crashes, so they aren’t perfect either. I have both, more often I use blocks. I’ve done somewhere approaching 600 barrels on AR’s in the last ~18yrs, maybe 50 of those with a rod, and the rest with blocks. Never have I warped or cracked an upper.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

I prefer the reaction rod to the clamshell vice block. But Varminterror is correct, you have to make sure to secure it in your vice are things will end up on the floor.

 

[mcb]

Reaction rods are nice because they work with any upper. The clam-shell vice blocks don't fit many of the non-standard uppers. A good reaction rod with the lug in the gas-key/charging-handle slot do protect uppers better than just about any other method. That is less critical putting an upper together as all the parts are usually new and/or good condition. It is tearing down a well used uppers where that lugged reaction rod can be the difference between saving an upper and breaking/damaging an upper.

 

[boom boom]

You can also split the difference with the Bev Block from Magpul. It is similar to a mag block but locks into the barrel extension. I've used a reaction rod, the Wheeler Clamshell, and the BevBlock for various AR tasks. I prefer the BevBlock if I am doing something quick and dirty with barrels and the Clamshell for installing barrels in new uppers. Borrowed a reaction rod for removing a barrel from an upper with a welded muzzle brake that I hated and did not care for how it handled the job.

The reaction wrench is too similar to Mauser action wrenches that insert through the rear of the receiver of which I have one for small ring mausers. I now use it for lapping the action rails on these receivers. I prefer the Brownells action wrench after using one of those one time.