AR Bolt Cleaning

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MtnCreek

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If you have an AR that's used for home defense and gets shot a good bit, how often do you clean it, especially the bolt?

Every time it's shot?
I put ~ 200 rds through it so it has to be cleaned?
Something else?

Thanks.
 
rarely. but i do regularly test the extractor tension and make sure the extractor still feels 'sharp' and hasn't become worn or rounded. and make sure the gas rings still have plenty of friction to seal.

although it's unlikely i would ever see them, i still look at the lugs and cam pin hole area to see if i can see any cracks developing.

don't do anything to the tail that would cause it to seal less well
 
Gas rings are probably getting weak. It seems like carbon buildup on the steel behind the gas rings is worse than it used to be. Could weak gas rings cause this?
 
Before I leave the range**, I've pulled the bolt apart and clean all surfaces
inside/out with carbon remover/breakfree. Doing it that way it's a 5-minute
wipe job. Let it sit/solidify and you're going to be scraping hard carbon for
15-20 minutes.

I leave it WET.** (advice I learned from Bill Alexander)








~~~~~~~
* I've found that bolt function/rotation can/will be impeded to the point of
just-at-the-wrong-moment jam by dried crap in/around the pivot pin. Leaving a bolt
dirty is therefore just not in my nature. Sorry, but I was indoctrinated by Master
Sergeants.
 
You could keep a separate low round count BCG to put in it when it is standing by for home defense; that way you wouldn't need to be inspecting parts with an eagle eye all the time, and/or replacing stuff before it really needs it.
 
The bolt tail seals against nothing. It's no different than having high compression humps on the pistons in your car engine. Those don't get cleaned for hundreds of thousands of miles. Scraping off the carbon is something that drill sergeants and armorers insist be done to use up a soldiers daylight and keep him busy.

IF you can keep a count of how many rounds you've shot, then periodic replacement of the bolt is advised, and since the rings come on it, that detail is taken care of. The AR piston can operate with just 1 - one - ring, and it's been demonstrated. Ring failure is rare, lugs breaking off much more common on high round count bolts.

Just keep it wet and no problems. AR's have been documented and publicized for going in excess of 50,000 round with just one or two cleanings. The majority of the maintenance was oiling the parts and wiping them down with a rag. No scrapers, brushes, nada. But, the extractor was changed, and so was the bolt.

The Army would like to count the rounds, too, but can't. So, they inspect it and look for cracks. That is about as high tech as it can get for the time being.
 
I follow the dictum: "Never let the sun set on a dirty gun."

How much time I spend cleaning and lubing depends on how many rounds I shot. I'm not talking parade ground inspection clean, but functionally clean. Get the main crud off and lube it up. Takes just a few minutes. Once in a while get real thorough.

By all means use that time to eyeball the vitals, as taliv mentioned above. That's the really important part.

The gas rings should be good for 5K. At 2.5K you might inspect and change out, if needed, the extractor spring, insert and o-ring, if so equipped.

Keeping a spare, low round count, BCG on hand is a great idea, as ny32182 said. I also keep a spare charging handle with mine.
 
I have two AR's one .223 and a 9mm, I clean the .223 after each outing and the 9mm once a month, it gets shot a lot more than the .223 Is it necessary to keep an AR that clean? Probably not, but it's such an easy job, why not just clean and lube the thing?
 
The bolt tail seals against nothing. It's no different than having high compression humps on the pistons in your car engine.

we are probably saying the same thing. i didn't advocate cleaning, and in fact warned against harming the bolt by cleaning. perhaps "seal" wasn't precisely the right word, but the tail of the bolt nevertheless plays a role in the operation by holding gas enough for it to move the carrier instead of just letting it slip by

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I've had an AR for ~15yrs and didn't know until now that I didn't understand exactly how they worked. :eek: I was told the carbon behind the rings would stop an AR; I've even told people on this site that. At least I will save time from here on soaking w/ kroil and rubbing w/ 0000 steel wool. :)
 
aside from unstaked screws coming out, i can't remember ever hearing about a carrier failure. and i wouldn't be in a huge hurry to replace your bolt. but having a spare is a good idea
 
Gas ring wear test:
1. Pull the bolt foreword all the way in the carrier.
2. Set it down on the bolt face.
3. If the bolt slides back in the carrier, you need new gas rings.
4. If it stays put, you don't.

rc
 
The AR piston can operate with just 1 - one - ring, and it's been demonstrated. Ring failure is rare, lugs breaking off much more common on high round count bolts.

I still have yet to see a bolt lug break. Between 4 years in the Army, carrying an AR at work for 6 years now and my friends and mine personal guns, you would think I would have seen it by now. We shoot our ARs a decent amount at work too.

However I have seen multiple gas ring failures. My depts old stock of Bushmasters had multiple rifles that would just eat gas rings. I went through 3 sets in my duty Bushmaster in 4 years and probably 6-7 thousand rounds. However they never caused a malfunction with my gun.
 
All my ARs get cleaned before they go back into standby mode. I live in La, a tropical jungle climate most of the time, and I don't trust the combination of humidity and the carbon/soot from firing. Maybe it's not necessary, but I do it anyway.
My cleaning isn't thorough, and I've never removed any carbon that I couldn't just wipe off with WD40. I run a couple WD40 patches through the bbl and follow that with a dry one. (none of my barrels are chrome lined) I disassemble the BCG and wipe out the carrier with a paper towel and WD40, and spray the bolt with the same. The WD40 is not used as a lube, just a solvent. I lube the BCG liberally with Mobil 1 oil and it's ready for storage/standby.
 
I wouldn't over-think this one. Like it was stated thoughtfully above, 'don't let the sun set on a dirty gun'. Said another way, 'shoot it, clean it'. And to be clear, there is cleaning and then there is CLEANING.
After shooting, a spray down the bore with some CLP (or your own favorite blend), let it sit and then bore snake it out (or use those little white things; I think they used to call them patches); ditto the BCG and chamber - pull the BCG, spray it and the chamber area then use a rag to dry off and remove dirt. Elapsed time: 15 minutes. I also put a light coat of oil/preservative on the surfaces before putting away.
A CLEANING involves more disassembly, inspection, carbon removal, maybe a trip through the ultrasound. But that's beyond the scope of the course.
B
 
My armorer's class instructor showed us one that had gone 10K rounds without cleaning and was still functioning fine.

If you do need to remove carbon, Kroil does a great job of softening it to the point where it usually comes off easily with a Scotchbrite pad.
 
armorer's class instructor showed us one that had gone 10K rounds without cleaning and was still functioning
I would ask (the armorer) in what goups (dozens vice 100's) of rounds the firing occurred per session, and how long between those group firings was the weapon left to "concrete up" from the fouling.

Those are two critical questions before I (or my son whose life currently depends on the answers) make a finding one way or the other.
 
I had a carry M4 in Iraq and a "playtime" M4. The playtime M4 got shot once a week with several hundred rounds. I had zero stoppages except one time....dropped the mag...cleared the two rounds out...put in a DIFFERENT mag and kept shooting.

Rifle was run mostly dry with only a drop or two of CLP in the cam pin area. I didn't clean it ever IIRC....it was pretty crusty on the bolt tail but it always worked.
 
I soak my bolts in slip 2000 Carbon Killer once or twice a year. Carbon wipes off with a paper towel.

Laphroaig
 
Put some oil on it.


Wipe the carbon off every few thousand rounds if you want...

But as long as you keep oil on it, it will function provided you use quality magazines and ammunition.
 
Ditto for the Carbon Killer. I use it to clear the carbon out of my P7M8/M13 gas piston and piston cylinder. It really loosens the gunk and can easily be wiped off.
It would doubtlessly work well on the M4 bolt as well.
B
 
An AR15 is a machine. It is designed with liberal tolerances, very liberal tolerances but if it is designed to run, first, when it has no contaminants in it, sooner or later, when there is enough garbage in it, it will stop. Just the law of physics.
 
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