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AR Decision - HELP!

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jAK-47

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May 13, 2004
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If you try to make the same rifle do two very different things, the chances are it won't be the best at both - COMPROMISE.

Having said that, what's the best AR-15 model that is the best of both in terms of 200+ yard accuracy and CQB characteristics? I played with an AR-10 and that is one great gun but the cost of ammo and the extra recoil (over the AR15/I'm a RECOIL WUSS) wasn't worth it.

Another way of asking my question is how short can I go on the barrel length before it won't shoot sub 2" at 300 meters? Also, I know there are a LOT of models/choices on the ARs - is there one where you can add to the weight in order to even further reduce the already mild recoil for quicker follow-up shots? I saw a thread about adding steel shot to the butt of the rifle...

If you tried to "marry" long range accuracy with CQB dexterity, which would you choose? If the carbon shorty shot sub 2" groups at 300 meters, I wouldn't have to post this:rolleyes:

Guess I'll go with a flat top and then I can slap a high power on for long range and a Kobra or other dot for when I do a carbine match.

Thanks for your patience and wisdom,
jAK-47
 
That's a tall order for any rifle.

I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to sniper/precision rifles. I had a Browning BAR Lightweight in .308 that could do 1/2" at 100 yards with a nice Leupold so I was ASSuming here.

What measurement should I be using for comparison/need? Originally, I had put sub 3" in my post but changed it thinking it wasn't demanding enough. I did surf some rifle/AR threads and got it in my head that sub 2" was a possible standard - maybe not.

Thanks for the clarification Mulliga,
jAK-47
 
Barrel length does not affect accuracy directly, it affects velocity. Velocity affects accuracy since a slower bullet has a more arced trajectory at distance and is affected more by wind drift.

MSTN makes what they call "Recce" uppers with 14.5" and 16" barrels that are capable of sub-MOA performance well past 300m. They are not cheap; but they would be the shortest AR15 style rifle you could own without having an NFA weapon (the 14.5" would need a permanent muzzle device) and they would probably meet your goals for 300yds.

They aren't cheap though. You could probably buy two complete ARs from a major manufacturer like Bushmaster just for the cost of one upper.

Is there one where you can add to the weight in order to even further reduce the already mild recoil for quicker follow-up shots?

There are some very good muzzle brakes for the AR that will reduce recoil to nothing without adding further weight. The downside is they tend to be very loud - so if you are actually experience a problem with the blast and noise instead of the physical push, they can make the problem worse. Take a look at JP and MSTN for some effective AR brakes.
 
With AR's it's not really the barrel length that gets you. The AR platform is pretty darn accurate to begin with. The bullet you shoot and conditions ou shoot in make a huge difference. Obviously the heavier the bullet you launch, the better it will carry momentum and buck the wind.

You may want to consider several solutions:

1. 18" barrel with 1/7, 1/8, or 1/9 twist. Shorter than stock, lighter, but still uses the standard gas system. Use a float tube (rail or plain)

2. 16" barrel with 1/7 twist and a Float tube.

You need the faster twists to stabilize the heavier bullets.

On a good day with the right bullets, a good rest, and a shooter that knowes what to do, either of these should do your accuracy requirement.

With the .223 you need to consider barrel length and it's effect on velocity. If you're going to use this as a social rifle and feel the need for longer range effectiveness, go with the longer tube.

I just cut a 20" to 18". You wouldn't think 2" would feel much different, but it really made it into a different rifle.

Hope this helps,

--usp_fan
 
Great Stuff!

I have a lot to think about BUT I know I'm on the right track and at least I know it will be an AR when all the dust settles.

Thanks,
jAK-47
 
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