AR denting/scratching/deforming brass?

[hdwhit]

Mercervillerental wrote:
Would you all reload either or both of the last 2 cases in my original post?

When I begin to prepare by brass, I clean it with a weak acid solution and detergent and after it dries, I make sure to put hands and eyes on every case.

Minor scratches and dents will not stop me from reloading a case.

• A scratch, dent or gouge like that in your case #2 would not stop me from reloading the case as the neck is supported by the chamber during firing and the scratch should not materially impact it's ability to function as a gas seal. The case will probably suffer a premature failure at the scratch, dent, gouge, but neck splits are not a catastrophic failure, plus read more below.
• A nick or chip like in your case #3 would also not stop me from reloading the case for much the same reason as case #2, plus the defect may be smoothed out during the resizing process. Again, read more below.

During my inspection process, any case that is either structurally or cosmetically imperfect is segregated from the remaining cases. I routinely segregate 15%-20% of cases. Both your case #2 and case #3 would qualfy for that segregation. Such segregated cases are inspected a second time using a magnifying glass. If the imperfection gives me any reason to doubt the integrity of the case, I toss it. This is a judgement call based on having reloaded the .223 Remington for close to fourty years, so I can't provide objective criteria. Like Hokie_PhD indicated, .223 brass is cheap enough to give us the luxury of being picky. If I don't think the case has lost integrity, I will keep it with similarly "imperfect" cases and use it for practice "field loads" that are loaded well below maximum and that I will shoot out in the woods where the likelihood of recovering the brass is remote. In other words, such cases would get one more reloading and then be used where they would not be recovered. I would not reload your case #2 or case #3 on a continuous basis.

 

[kwg020]

What hdwhit said ^^^^. Reload it and use it. If the brass does not have a crease that weakens the brass, it's good to go. Your primer pockets will probably get too large to re-use before the brass goes bad as long as you are not loading them to the max every time.

kwg

 

[Walkalong]

I agree, case #1 goes in the scrap bucket, while #2 & #3 look OK.

I do much like hdwhit, if something looks like a potential problem, I set it aside and then examine it closely under magnification. It may still get used, but it might get scrapped, like he posted, a judgment call.

A lens off of an old Projector (Us old guys know what that is) and an objective off of a cheap scope acquired on a gun. You can also buy "loupes" or magnifying glasses, but if you keep your eyes out for stuff, you can find something that will work.

 

[Blue68f100]

Super stupid question here so bear with me, but what sharp edges exactly are you knocking off? The front end of the lugs, or inside the chamber itself?

You are not going to touch the chamber at all. You will be looking at the feed ramp on the barrel extension. A lot of time when they cut the ramp very sharp edges are left behind. Just use you fingers to feel for sharp edges. You will know when you find one. If your getting your brass gouged on feeding it will be the bottom portion of the barrel extension, ramp area. If it's getting gouged on extraction it will be the 2 lugs on the right side.

The picture show by 243winxb is the threaded end that screws on to the barrel. These are torqued on during the mfg process of setting the proper head space. You do not want to remove it, these are on super tight, 150ftlbs torque. Walkalone picture is of a different barrel extension that I have not seen. Most are not make like that one. Most have a very sharp edge where the ramp was cut.

 

[RussellC]

All you need to do is dull the sharp edge so it will not gouge the brass. Normally this is done by lightly running the wheel over the sharp edge. As to size of wheel it depends on what part your trying to get to, and weather or not you have the upper attached. Preferred method is do it before you put the upper together.

Just get the kit with all the sizes and grits, you will find other uses for them

One build isnt done, barrel still uninstalled the other I am removing to square the front of the receiver, so both will be unmounted barrels. I dont need the whole set, but even if I decide to get the whole thing was wondering which one you found easiest to perform this smoothing with? Again, both barrels will not be mounted when this is done, so access should be at its best.

Russellc

 

[Blue68f100]

The 2 I use most is the 1/4" bullet and the short 3/8" bullet. I've used the small wheels some too. This works when you have to deburr the back side edge (gouging brass on extraction). All in very fine grit, finest they have.

 

[RussellC]

The 2 I use most is the 1/4" bullet and the short 3/8" bullet. I've used the small wheels some too. This works when you have to deburr the back side edge (gouging brass on extraction). All in very fine grit, finest they have.

Got it! Thanks for the further explaination, much appreciated.

Russellc