AR Experts: Is this everything I need?

[weirdsexy]

I haven't been interested in the AR platform until recently, so I am not confident in my knowledge. I intend to build off a stripped lower and buy a complete upper plus BCG etc. I will include links to, and descriptions of, all the parts I intend to buy as well as my rationale for buying them. I would very much appreciate it if some community experts would look over my build and make sure I'm not missing anything or that I'm not buying something retarded.

Stripped Lower: Noveske
I know that most lowers are pretty much the same and/or don't make much difference in the quality of the final build. So why pay more for the Noveske? For the awesome rollmark, of course! Besides, this "cosmetic blem" offering is only 50 bucks more than the cheapest lower I can find. For a rifle that I hope to keep many years, I don't really care.

Lower Parts Kit: How about Daniel Defense?
I trust DD as a brand and the trigger in this kit should be pretty decent.
Includes the magpul MOE trigger guard.

Buttstock Kit:
I really have no idea on this one.
I want a fixed A2 stock.
What weight buffer should I get depending on gas length and the bore size of the gas block?
What parts should I make sure the buttstock kit includes so that I can finish assembling my rifle when everything comes in?

Upper Group: BCM 18" 410 Stainless Steel Barrel
410 Stainless Steel; This is for a bench gun, stainless is supposed to be more accurate.
1 in 8" twist; I plan on shooting mostly 55 to 62 grain ammo.

Bolt Carrier Group: BCM BCG
Sticking to BCM

Charging Handle: BCM

Iron Sights: Magpul MBUS 2nd Gen Flip ups
I've actually used a pair of them and really liked them.
I only ever hear good things about them and they are cheap.


Thanks to all that reply!

 

[12131]

Not expert by any means, but, if you're set on the A2 fixed stock, then this is what you need:
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=365

Do not use the carbine buffer in the A2 fixed stock assembly.

Then, you are gtg, with everything else you listed, for functioning rifle.

 

[weirdsexy]

Thanks 12131!
Thats what I was looking at anyway =)

I do have questions though; when looking at other lower parts/stock assemblies I've come across the terms "receiver extension", "castle nut", and "receiver plate".
Is the receiver extension the same thing as a buffer tube?
Is "castle nut" synonymous with the spacer that's included with that stag buttstock assembly?
What's a receiver plate?

 

[benzy2]

The receiver extension is the buffer tube. When you look at a collapsible stock, you have to mount secure it slightly differently. On the fixed stock, you screw the buffer tube/receiver extension into the rifle until tight, then you slide the stock on, then you screw a screw through the stock into the receiver extension. It doesn't matter what side of the buffer tube is facing up or down as it's just a round tube. Here we can screw it down tight and be done with it.

On a collapsible stock, you have to secure the tube, and since you need it to line up vertical with the rifle, it has to have some adjustment built into the system to allow for different starting threads on the receiver. Here, you slide the castle nut (round nut with 4 notches that kinda resembles a castle) onto the buffer tube. The receiver plate is a plate that has an indentation that notches into the back of the receiver. It also has a notch that indexes into the bottom of the buffer tube. This way, you screw the stock on until it is holding the buffer detent down while the tube is aligned vertically. You then push the receiver plate forward so it locks into the receiver, and you screw the castle nut down to make sure nothing moves. Sounds complex, but when you see it, its basically just a fancy lock washer and nut used to keep the stock vertical rather than point any given direction.

 

[68wj]

The DD LPK is a good kit. Also check out Palmetto State Armory's LPKs that are on sale right now. They work well.

If you are making this a bench gun and want better accuracy, I would choose something besides the MBUSs. These are great as a "back up sight" but go with a non-folding metal sight if you will be primarily irons.

Your buffer question looks to be answered. Have fun!

 

[weirdsexy]

benzy2, I thought it probably had to do with using collapsible vs. fixed. Thanks for verifying!

68wj, thanks for the Palmetto armory suggestion; I forget about them!
The price point of their "classic" LPK is certainly attractive and I trust that it is a quality kit. It doesn't include the magpul MOE trigger guard, which I don't care too much about as I seldom shoot with gloves on. In any event, I could buy one elsewhere and still come out cheaper with this kit.
Would there be any difference in quality in the trigger between this and the DD kit? They are both American made standard AR triggers from reputable companies. I know they are not match triggers, but does anyone think the DD would have an edge?

EDIT: Also, about the iron sights. Do you have any recommendations? I rarely get to shoot past 300m and I eventually plan to put some form of optics on it when I've saved up a bit more.
I was just going with the magpuls for now because they work well enough (I'm no competition shooter) they hold a zero well and, of course, they are cheap.

 

[12131]

The Palmetto LPK should do the job just fine.

As for the BUIS, the Troy folding battle sights are high quality stuff that a lot of folks/companies (BCM, Noveske, LWRC, etc.) use.
AIM Surplus has them (set) for cheaper than other vendors I've seen.
http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.a...ttle+Sight+Combo+Standard+M4++REAR&groupid=48
And their shipping is free.

 

[Marty183]

I am by no way an expert but I will share a little knowledge with you...As others have said, the Daniel Defense LPK is good to go. I purchased one from AIMSurplus.com for my build. As you said, it did come with the Magpul Enhanced Polymer Trigger Guard. If you look at Palmetto State Armory's website, they too have a LPK with the same trigger guard for cheaper than the DD one. That LPK comes with the MOE pistol grip and you can also select a color different than black should you choose.

Had I known about the Palmetto LPK when I purchased my DD, I might have chosen the Palmetto in FDE. Oh well, there is always my next build...

Good luck with whatever you choose...

 

[TonyAngel]

weird, it sounds like you have all of the right components. I'd just like to make a suggestion. The first is the trigger. If you are building a precision rig, I'd suggest using a vendor that will assemble a LPK for you to include some form of aftermarket trigger kit. Personally, I like the Geiselle SSA-E trigger for a precision field rig.

This was the last one that I built using an 18" barrel and UBR stock with a Nightforce 2.5-10X32 on top.

 

[sarduy]

tony, i would love to have an AK finished with the color of the background door of your picture, do you know what color (brand/code) did you use for that?

send me a mesage!

 

[weirdsexy]

Wow, thanks for the feedback guys!

I think I'm going to go with the Palmetto State LPK

TonyAngel, I'd like to clarify, I'm a novice shooter. This will be the first real rifle I've owned. I've been told alot that it's better to learn to shoot on a more standard setup. Then once you can "outshoot" your rifle, drop some money on upgrades like a Geiselle or Timney trigger group.

I don't intend for this rifle to compete with something a professional competition shooter would use. I'm just trying to build this using quality components, so I do expect some degree of accuracy out of it.

12131, Thanks for the Troy suggestions. I'm looking at those as well as a few others. I'll worry more about actually buying sights once I'm able to purchase an upper group from BCM, they are overloaded with orders right now and will be out of stock for a bit. I'll keep asking about sights in different places as well as try to get some hands on experience with different sets until then.


As a related note, what about some suggestions on moderately priced, but decent .223/5.56 ammo? You know, not match grade, but not wolf black box. Looking for 55 to 62 grain ammo.

Federal American Eagle/Lake City XM193 or XM855?
Prvi Partizan M193?
PMC M193?
Remmington UMC?

 

[Dimis]

the factory second noveski is still $50 more than a spikes stripped lower

just my 2¢ go with what makes you happy and have fun shooting

as for ammo walmart tends to carry the 55gr remington fairly priced
dicks sporting goods has the UMC stuff
otherwise online stores will provide any brand/weight/projectile you could want for the best prices but the deals vary all the time

 

[TonyAngel]

weirdsexy, I understand what you are trying to do and I understand the philosophy. On the other hand, a crappy trigger is a crappy trigger and shooting a crappy trigger can lead to bad habits. The trigger that I suggested isn't a "match" trigger by any means. It's just a very reliable two stage trigger that breaks cleanly with about a 4.5lb pull. In any case, it isn't a big deal. The only point that I was trying to make was that if you were going to upgrade the trigger, it is more cost effective to get a LPK with the better trigger than to pay for a stock trigger only to quickly replace it. Most of the cost of the LPK is due to the trigger group, the rest of the parts are dirt cheap.

As for ammo, if you're just looking to hone your skills before you fall off of the deep end with the never ending search for the utmost in accuracy, then the likes of all of those that you listed will do fine. Without getting into an argument over steel cased ammo, I would also suggest that you look into Silver Bear ammo. I've burned up 10s of thousands of rounds of that stuff without issues.

 

[weirdsexy]

TonyAngel, when I finish this build I'll buy a couple of boxes of different brands and see what works best. I'll try the bear ammos, I've put a couple hundred rounds of wolf polymer coated .223 (can be had for 21 cents per round) through my friends Sig 556 and never had a single problem. Groups weren't bad either. I'll try various brass cased as well.

As for the two stage trigger deal; From what I've gathered, it's better to get a good consistent single stage trigger and practice with it so that you know where it breaks and how to squeeze it without flinching etc. than to take what many consider to be a "shortcut" in the 2-stage trigger. Many have said learning to shoot on a 2 stage before becoming proficient with a single stage can be worse for developing "bad habits". What do you think of this view?

Thanks for looking out for my wallet but I don't plan to upgrade "quickly". If it comes to it, I'll upgrade down the road when I have more experience under my belt and don't feel the need to ask for advice on a web forum to even put my gun together

 

[benzy2]

I am a big fan of 2 stage triggers for a rifle meant to be shot other than strictly off the bags. A good two stage makes offhand shots much easier as you can have that safe 4.5 lb trigger, yet the break feel like a single pound. When you have to deal with natural wobble rather than a solid sand bag, having the majority of the weight in the first stage is a benefit. I bought a Geissele Hi Speed trigger and while very expensive, it is as good as it gets. Very adjustable, consistent, and clean.

If all you plan to do is run it as fast as you can go or off a rest, a single stage may be better. If you plan to do much else, I'd take a 2 stage. I honestly wish more hunting rifles had a quality 2 stage trigger. Not as nice when sighting in, but in the field, I find them far superior. Either way, I think upgrading to a better trigger is always a good idea, single stage or 2 stage. Proper trigger control is key to either trigger. I find it easier to control a 5lb 2 stage trigger than to control a 5lb single stage.