AR no "perfect" gas block?

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rifleman14

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I like using my green dot sight over the irons for quick acquisition and whatnot but I would also enjoy having the irons available so I can keep my skills with them sharp and also as a back up for if the dot fails...so my question is, are there any truely good gas blocks with either just one top rail or simply a built in flip up sight that is also PINNED? the main concern is the pinning, as all other gas blocks ive seen are either set screw or clamp and I don't believe I would ever fully trust a gas block of this type. I believe pinning it is the only way to go. So are there any pinned gas blocks with either a top rail or simply a built in flip up front sight? I know about VLTOR's, but I was hoping to find something a little more reasonably costing. I don't think it should could two hundred some dollars just to have the proper method of attachment!
 
Why would you not trust something that isn't failing on rifles across the board?
 
I'm not saying that I'm not open to different products, as long as someone can discuss and prove why they are sufficient. I am hoping to learn something that is why i started the thread :)
 
As Birdmang said, there is nothing wrong with non pin on gas blocks. Like anything else, as long as they are properly installed there will be no issue with the block. I run one of these:
http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=45
and have had zero issues with my rifle. Now I know that it is not a sighted or railed block, but it is a screw on. Which has not failed me at all. Good quality parts cost money. Vltor makes good parts.
 
I know that the pinned gas blocks are pretty much universally accepted as being the "best" way to put a gas block on an AR, but "best" is subject to some interpretation.

From an accuracy perspective, I've had more than one guy that builds precision ARs tell me that pinning is not the best for accuracy and that a properly installed clamp on type is the best. Of course, I can't argue with the success of the Noveske products and they use pinned blocks.

On another note, I do know that when Alexander Arms was testing out their clamp on gas block, the upper receiver gave way before they were able to get the gas block to slip or twist on the barrel. I'd say have no fear and just get what suits your needs. There are many nice gas blocks that clamp on and have an integral flip up front sight. I've seen them run from under $100 (Yankee Hill) to over $300.

Personally, I've been running clamp ons for a few years now and have never had one come loose on me. In fact, I find that it takes a bit more effort to get them off than it took to put them on. The clamp ons also make for a pretty tight fit between the barrel and the block. I don't get any evidence of blow by from the block.

In any case, I'm not wild about the set screw types. There's literally nothing but the set screw holding it in place. If you do go the set screw route, be sure to dimple the under side of the barrel for the set screw. I'd say that the set screw type is the least secure and that a good bump could possibly knock it out of whack. I still have to admit that I've used quite a few set screw gas blocks on builds that would be running a full length handguard that would cover the block. In this application, it would be virtually impossible for the block to take a hit and I've never had one come loose on it's own; but I do use a locking compound on the set screws. I can't remember what it's called. It doesn't have as high a shear strength as red loctite, but it is much more heat resistant.
 
Consider what started the pinning - a front sight base that stuck up in the air and that also was the gas block. Soldiers would smack that sight pretty hard in combat drills, against door openings, exiting combat hatches in vehicles, or even against another sight in combative training. The bayonet was also attached, which increased the leverage on it by a multiple factor.

Civilian shooters almost never do any of that. Make it a lo pro gas block under a rail, it's protected and untouched. Clamp on or set screws don't get torqued, twisted, levered, or pried then.

There's a range of options and how extreme it will be used. Select accordingly. I'm using a lopro block with dimple and setscrew, the FSB mounted at rifle length likely, too. I'll be able to change out gas blocks, gas tubes, and mount free floats as I see fit, without constantly unscrewing the barrel nut.

If it was a trunk gun, maybe not, duty, pin it. On a recreational shooter, do what will work.
 
I have five AR's that do not have pinned gas blocks and they work fine. Two are exposed gas blocks with set screws. Two are under handguards and set with screws. One is a clamp-on YHM flip sight. None has failed me, but I do not enter into combat, nor do I overly abuse them.
 
Whoa! I just put a new gas block on my rifle that is pinned low profile to go under a Troy Battlerail. Didnt consider its affect on accuracy but glad to hear some of the points Tirod makes. Thanks for starting the thread rifleman, it is a good consideration. I could see how it would affect accuracy.
 
You can have most styles of gas blocks drilled and reamed for pins. I really don't think you need it unless you are going to be using a bayonet a lot. I have a clamp on YHM that has not moved in five years. I have a set screw type with the barrel drilled for the set screws, rock solid.
 
I've used a couple of the YHM clamp on models without any issues at all. A couple of the ones with the fold down sight, and another with just a rail, to which I mounted one of their rail-mounted front folding sights.

-Matt
 
well i think ive narrowed it down to the yhm gas block with built in flip up sight, OR...has anyone had any positive, or more importantly negative, experience with this product?

http://www.stagarms.com/product_info.php?products_id=366

one last question..is there any difference between how secure the cross bolt style gas block is and the two piece "verticle" style that the yhm gas block/front sight uses? it just seems to me that the crossbolt style that the ARMS sight uses might squeeze the barrel a little tighter. its probably just me but im just wondering

thanks for all your replies everyone, youve helped me in coming closer to finding an answer to my AR-dillemma!
 
Personally I would not give my money to ARMS if they were the last company making AR parts. Some folks love them, but based on their business and shady legal practices I will not support them in anyway.

I'd go with the YHM without hesitation.
 
Chop your pinned gas blocks existing sight down and use rifle length rails instead.

Or send your pinned gas block to Adco and let them chop and refinish it for you. They'll chop it for Larue or DD rails.

All my "serious work" carbines have pinned gas blocks. I'll use nothing less.
 
Zerodefect, that is exactly what my rifle has on it now. I chopped it off myself and rounded the edges then blued it, looks exactly like a low profile gas block from any manufacturer except for the fact that its pinned and they aren't!
I have been going back and forth in my mind trying to figure out what to use as far as irons or red dot, flip up or fixed. being a perfectionist(one of the most agrivating qualities a human can have!), I feel that the best option for me is a standard pinned A2 front sight and some type of fixed rear sight like a Daniel Defense A1.5 or maybe even a carry handle so I can have the elevation adjustment. This way, I'll have peace of mind in two things;one is that my sights are solid, waterproof, shockproof, fogproof, and battle proven. two is that I will become a skilled marksman with the standard iron sights, which is in my opinion a required skill.
 
well im looking for a standard A2 front sight as we speak but....why arent any of them pre drilled? i thought these things were standard??!!
 
I have seen extreme heat cause clamp-on and set-screw gas blocks move.

Since 2005 all I've used are pinned gas blocks.

If the one you want isn't pinned (or set screws RockSett'd into dimples), have it modified to do it that way. Sometimes modifying something will get the best results, if done properly.
 
Noveske.
I have PRI/MSTN gas blocks that are permanently fixed (dimple in barrel, set screw, rocksett).
The old school way to do it is to cut the FST off an A2 gas block.
 
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