Ar Stag Model 3 Loose Hand guard

[mookiie]

All,
I have a stag model 3 that has a loose front hand guard. And what I mean by loose is that if you apply pressure to one side the hand guard will twist a little changing the alignment of the front sight. It is a diamond head 7 inch rail that is locked in place by gas block and retention spring. I am new to ARs so:

My question is how can you make it a tighter fit so it does not twist the front rail when pressure is applied? Can I just loosen the gas block and clamp it down before I screw it tight to squeeze the hand guard? or do I run the risk of pushing the Gas block out of alignment with the gas hole in the barrel?

Thanks

 

[Rail Driver]

What type of handguard? Is it a free floated rail handguard or the standard plastic 2 piece handguard? A picture would help some.

 

[mookiie]

Here is what it looks like:
http://www.store-diamondhead-usa.com/Diamondhead_Reduced_Height_Gas_Block_0_750_p/31021.htm

and here is another view:

 

[Welding Rod]

That doesn't look like a floated handgaurd... it is retained at the rear and at the front right?

If that is the case it will move a little. Even floated handguards may bend a little when slung up tight.

In either case the front sight should be mounted to the gas block. You want the sights pointed where the barrel is pointed, not there the handguard is pointed.

 

[rcmodel]

+1

A front sight on that handguard rail is not going to work because the handguard is not fixed to the upper like a free-float would be.

Put it on the gas block rail.

rc

 

[mookiie]

Well I took two clamps used for woodworking and clamped the gas block on both sides squeezing it at the back of the receiver and back of the pistol grip for the other, then I loosened the gas block screws and squeezed it as tight as I could get it and than tightened the screws. It now has a lot less movement but still moves. I will have to take your guys advice and get a new front sight post, but I am all tapped out right now so it will have to wait. thanks for the help!

Also does anyone know if the gas blocks have small holes to trap the gas from the barrel or is it a larger hole? I am wondering if I could have moved the gas block from over the barrel gas hole and the rifle will not longer function. Is this a concern I should be worried about? Anyone know any easy way to check?

 

[Rail Driver]

Probably shouldn't have moved the gas block. The easiest way to test it is to fire the rifle. If your weapon fires but doesn't cycle the bolt, you're not getting enough gas. If it does cycle the bolt, does it seem sluggish compared to before?

 

[mookiie]

I will have to test fire it next time I get to the range to find out. hopefully it is fine because it had a metal hanguard piece that was sandwiched between the end of the gas block and a ridge on the barrel.

 

[wingman]

I have the same model 3 the hand guard is super tight personally I would give Stag a call.

 

[Rail Driver]

I will have to test fire it next time I get to the range to find out. hopefully it is fine because it had a metal hanguard piece that was sandwiched between the end of the gas block and a ridge on the barrel.

That piece is supposed to be there. By "had" did you mean to say you removed it?

 

[matrem]

I am wondering if I could have moved the gas block from over the barrel gas hole and the rifle will not longer function. Is this a concern I should be worried about? Anyone know any easy way to check?

If you did that it will function.. but only as a straight pull bolt rifle!
Unless/until you "fix" your handguard situation, I'd suggest you just make sure your gas block port matches your bbl port and mount your front sight on the gas block.

 

[mookiie]

Rail driver - i did not remove it. I was just saying that it could only move so far in that direction.