Ar Stripped lower
- Thread starter chaddy
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tommy.duncan
Member
Yes, That is how I built my last 3 lowers.
Be careful with the take down pin springs though!!!
Be careful with the take down pin springs though!!!
LUCKYDAWG13
Member
you don't need a vise to build a lower but when you put the trigger guard in
just support it so you don't break off in ear on it
Tape off the area near the mag catch roll pin hole and use a dull razor blade to compress the front detent and spring while you slide the takedown pin in, then slide out the blade.
just support it so you don't break off in ear on it
Tape off the area near the mag catch roll pin hole and use a dull razor blade to compress the front detent and spring while you slide the takedown pin in, then slide out the blade.
jdh
Member
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Lower just takes some pin punches, hammer, screw driver. The upper will take receiver vice block, a vice to put it in, and an armorer's tool at minimum. There will be people tell you you can install and torque the barrel with out them. It can be done but it is super easy screw up your receiver.
1911 guy
Member
I built my first lower without a vise. As I built a few more, I acquired tools then built a few uppers.
A small hammer, roll pin punches, screwdriver or allen key (depending on head of pistol grip screw supplied in parts kit) and patience is all that is required.
Tape is helpful to avoid scratches on your first few. Familiarity and patience is good, too, and helps when tape isn't handy.
Heed the advice of luckydawg13. Support the opposite side of the trigger guard ears when driving the roll pin. Broken receivers make people unhappy. There is a specific bench block made for this, but it is not required. A piece of wood works just fine. So would the corner of the dining room table, but your wife may object. Strike that. She will probably object.
A small hammer, roll pin punches, screwdriver or allen key (depending on head of pistol grip screw supplied in parts kit) and patience is all that is required.
Tape is helpful to avoid scratches on your first few. Familiarity and patience is good, too, and helps when tape isn't handy.
Heed the advice of luckydawg13. Support the opposite side of the trigger guard ears when driving the roll pin. Broken receivers make people unhappy. There is a specific bench block made for this, but it is not required. A piece of wood works just fine. So would the corner of the dining room table, but your wife may object. Strike that. She will probably object.
burrhead
Member
Why not just buy a cheap vise? You can get one for $20 that will work. It's not like you have to throw it away when you're done.
It isn't that hard.
If you get a standard AR stripped lower then it won't have a trigger guard, you have to install it. The basic trigger guard is a straight piece, and to install it you place it between two holes on the stripped lower. There is a channel on the trigger guard and you will bang a roll pin through the two holes in the lower and into the trigger guard channel. If you don't support the metal around the holes on the stripped lower, they can break. The magazine well flares out and when you put it on a flat surface, the trigger guard area is not supported.
All I did to support mine was wrap some duct tape around enough pieces of wooden shim to support the trigger guard area on a work bench.
If you get a standard AR stripped lower then it won't have a trigger guard, you have to install it. The basic trigger guard is a straight piece, and to install it you place it between two holes on the stripped lower. There is a channel on the trigger guard and you will bang a roll pin through the two holes in the lower and into the trigger guard channel. If you don't support the metal around the holes on the stripped lower, they can break. The magazine well flares out and when you put it on a flat surface, the trigger guard area is not supported.
All I did to support mine was wrap some duct tape around enough pieces of wooden shim to support the trigger guard area on a work bench.
LUCKYDAWG13
Member
You don't need fancy tools the first time around. You do need some experience using them.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/22...__GAS_BLOCK___Step_by_step_instructions_.html
Using pin punches is a higher level skill, someone new to building AR's will risk less by using taped Vice Grip type pliers to insert pins. You do NOT need a torque wrench to tighten the barrel nut, it's a minimum 30 foot pounds, which is hand tight. The maximum is 80 foot pounds to prevent stripping the aluminum threads on the upper's nose, which is lug nut tight. What you are attempting to do is tighten the nut enough so that the gas tube passes between the teeth. Nut shims are now sold which can make the process more precise at the expense of time and money.
The all in one AR15 builders tool - which was never issue as an "armorer's tool," is a great asset for handling the flash hider, barrel nut, etc. That and an inexpensive vice to hold the upper are the most helpful, all the other stuff is sold because it can be.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/22...__GAS_BLOCK___Step_by_step_instructions_.html
Using pin punches is a higher level skill, someone new to building AR's will risk less by using taped Vice Grip type pliers to insert pins. You do NOT need a torque wrench to tighten the barrel nut, it's a minimum 30 foot pounds, which is hand tight. The maximum is 80 foot pounds to prevent stripping the aluminum threads on the upper's nose, which is lug nut tight. What you are attempting to do is tighten the nut enough so that the gas tube passes between the teeth. Nut shims are now sold which can make the process more precise at the expense of time and money.
The all in one AR15 builders tool - which was never issue as an "armorer's tool," is a great asset for handling the flash hider, barrel nut, etc. That and an inexpensive vice to hold the upper are the most helpful, all the other stuff is sold because it can be.
To do an barrel mount safely I disagree with the advice about "no vice" - a vice and proper vice-block is important.
If you run in to a problem where you can't get the holes to line up in the gas tube when you are tightening the barrel (I had 3 of those out of 7.. sigh, bad luck), there's a trick... sort of. Tigthen as far as it will go. Loosen. Retigthen. Loosen. 3rd or 4th time in, you can USUALLY get the notches to line up with the gas hole properly (if they are close). Failing that, you'll need a shim. (I've never needed a shim)
I got this one so I could do uppers, AND flip it over to align freefloat tubes properly (and precisely). When aligning free float tubes with the upper you flip it, and slide receiver rails and freefloat tube rails in, aligning them. Tighten the thumbscrew. Then secure the freefloat tube according to manufacturer's directions. When you're done, loosen the thumb screw, and "whallah"... perfectly aligned freefloat tube.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/87...ny-rail-vise-block-ar-15?cm_vc=ProductFinding
(I use that for WAY more than just upper receiver installs, BTW! Heck I used the rail assembly part to hold my SCAR (on the lower rail) to remove the muzzle brake just the other day)
I also use this; it's handy to have the barrel, stock, and both 308 and 223 flash suppressor sizes all on one tool. The 1/2" square hole is for a breaker bar, for those barrel installs that need some leverage....
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/885858/dpms-multi-tool-ar-15-steel?cm_vc=sugv1885858
If you run in to a problem where you can't get the holes to line up in the gas tube when you are tightening the barrel (I had 3 of those out of 7.. sigh, bad luck), there's a trick... sort of. Tigthen as far as it will go. Loosen. Retigthen. Loosen. 3rd or 4th time in, you can USUALLY get the notches to line up with the gas hole properly (if they are close). Failing that, you'll need a shim. (I've never needed a shim)
I got this one so I could do uppers, AND flip it over to align freefloat tubes properly (and precisely). When aligning free float tubes with the upper you flip it, and slide receiver rails and freefloat tube rails in, aligning them. Tighten the thumbscrew. Then secure the freefloat tube according to manufacturer's directions. When you're done, loosen the thumb screw, and "whallah"... perfectly aligned freefloat tube.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/87...ny-rail-vise-block-ar-15?cm_vc=ProductFinding
(I use that for WAY more than just upper receiver installs, BTW! Heck I used the rail assembly part to hold my SCAR (on the lower rail) to remove the muzzle brake just the other day)
I also use this; it's handy to have the barrel, stock, and both 308 and 223 flash suppressor sizes all on one tool. The 1/2" square hole is for a breaker bar, for those barrel installs that need some leverage....
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/885858/dpms-multi-tool-ar-15-steel?cm_vc=sugv1885858
Also an often overlooked bit;
Your barrel extension is steel, your receiver aluminum (or magnesium, or whatever; if you're building something a little more exotic).
Aeroshell Grease 33MS is the milspec grease to put between your receiver extension and upper receiver, to prevent electron migration corrosion.
One tube will last you a lifetime, even if you're an armorer.
http://www.amazon.com/AeroShell-Extreme-Pressure-Grease-MIL-21164D/dp/B00FSD37CM
I wouldn't bother with one rifle, but if you plan on building more down the road.... might as well...
Your barrel extension is steel, your receiver aluminum (or magnesium, or whatever; if you're building something a little more exotic).
Aeroshell Grease 33MS is the milspec grease to put between your receiver extension and upper receiver, to prevent electron migration corrosion.
One tube will last you a lifetime, even if you're an armorer.
http://www.amazon.com/AeroShell-Extreme-Pressure-Grease-MIL-21164D/dp/B00FSD37CM
I wouldn't bother with one rifle, but if you plan on building more down the road.... might as well...
MachIVshooter
Member
Yes on the vise, but a "proper block" is not necessary. Two small chunks of soft pine 2x4 works just fine. You just drill two 1/2" holes for the pin blocks to squish into, then tighten the vise until the upper starts to dig into the wood. I've built/rebuilt many, many uppers this way.
Depending on the skill level of the user, a vice for the upper may be entirely unnecessary.
One method that is repeatedly pictured over at arfcom is to mount the upper on the lower, then have the lower held with a block of wood inserted in the mag well. Said block securely fastened to a larger item that won't move.
It's done all the time - what the builder does not want to do is exceed the 80 foot pounds of torque the Army specified as the upper limit for tightening a steel barrel nut onto the aluminum nose of the upper. The other point is that tightening a flash hider onto the barrel can do even worse, by stripping the slot in the upper as the barrel pin rips out. Clamping a the pinned front sight helps there, but a set screw gas block base is less trust worthy.
The Army did specify a grease to help prevent some corrosion, in the larger scheme of things it's overkill considering the abuse we dish out to the average set of forged aluminum wheels torqued down with steel lugs onto cast iron brake hats. Ten to fifteen years of exposure to salty slush every winter and those cars aren't suffering major problems due to that connection. Economic point of repair issues with the drivetrain junk them out.
Someone experienced in using hand tools can read the specs and torques knowing what they need to accomplish to assemble an AR15. Those with no previous skills at all, take heed, as they are well rounded instructions written with the young and inexperienced in mind - the average armorer in a military unit. Most of what is described even they don't do, as it's required to ship the weapon to a higher unit for any significant repair. Also, lets not forget that if that armorer does scratch the upper or lower, it's not a deadlining item. The weapon goes right into the rack at end of day and it's merely gained more patina from service. Your disaster is not their concern.
One method that is repeatedly pictured over at arfcom is to mount the upper on the lower, then have the lower held with a block of wood inserted in the mag well. Said block securely fastened to a larger item that won't move.
It's done all the time - what the builder does not want to do is exceed the 80 foot pounds of torque the Army specified as the upper limit for tightening a steel barrel nut onto the aluminum nose of the upper. The other point is that tightening a flash hider onto the barrel can do even worse, by stripping the slot in the upper as the barrel pin rips out. Clamping a the pinned front sight helps there, but a set screw gas block base is less trust worthy.
The Army did specify a grease to help prevent some corrosion, in the larger scheme of things it's overkill considering the abuse we dish out to the average set of forged aluminum wheels torqued down with steel lugs onto cast iron brake hats. Ten to fifteen years of exposure to salty slush every winter and those cars aren't suffering major problems due to that connection. Economic point of repair issues with the drivetrain junk them out.
Someone experienced in using hand tools can read the specs and torques knowing what they need to accomplish to assemble an AR15. Those with no previous skills at all, take heed, as they are well rounded instructions written with the young and inexperienced in mind - the average armorer in a military unit. Most of what is described even they don't do, as it's required to ship the weapon to a higher unit for any significant repair. Also, lets not forget that if that armorer does scratch the upper or lower, it's not a deadlining item. The weapon goes right into the rack at end of day and it's merely gained more patina from service. Your disaster is not their concern.
Outlaw Man
Member
Only time I've used a vice on a lower is to remove a castle nut on an already assembled lower. I think I might have used it to install the new buffer tube and stock, but that would only have been because it was already in the vice.
Barrel/handguard work is really the only thing you need a vice for.
Barrel/handguard work is really the only thing you need a vice for.
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