AR trigger DIY?

[brighamr]

Hello,

I have a factory S&W AR15. The trigger has a strong pull and isn't very smooth. What I'd like to know is if I can change the springs to lessen the pull, and polish the trigger/sear/hammer to smooth things out? Has anyone done this? can you provide some guidance?

I just can't see spending $200+ for a new trigger assembly.

 

[grendelbane]

If you shoot it some more, it may polish itself. I had the same situation with the last AR I assembled, and it smoothed itself out in a couple of range sessions.

If you do try polishing, be very gentle.

 

[rcmodel]

Get yourself a tube of Outers GunSlick grease, and lube the hammer hooks, sear, etc. with it.
Then shoot it.

Stoning on an AR trigger is not good JUJU.
They have sort of a case-hardened surface finish, and if you go through it, you will soon be needing new trigger parts to replace your worn-out ones.

rcmodel

 

[Riss]

As with most triggers use it first to break it in and lube later. Need some of the initial unlubed working to wear it in, so to speak. Not sure if you could try "boosting" it like a 1911 trigger. Would need 3 or 4 hands to do it though.

 

[brighamr]

How much is break in? I've shot 900 rounds thus far...

I'll try the lube, and maybe a drop in trigger later on. I just hoped there were some springs I could change or something (along with lightly polishing some surfaces)

 

[Onmilo]

Wolff Gunspring produces lighter than average trigger and hammer springs in music wire.
ISMI gunspring produces lighter springs using chrome silicone wire, this is my choice but be advised the felt pull weight will not be greatly reduced, maybe one or two pounds, at the most, off the pull scale weight.
Most people notice that the rifle seems to cycle faster rather than noticing any great reduction of the pull weight.

Always grease the surface contact areas as this does improve perceived pull weight by reducing surface friction.

Stoning is the only real way to reduce the actual pull weight and as stated, this is best left to a gunsmith with knowledge of the trigger/hammer interface.
Too many people try this trick and end up trashing the components.

 

[hdbiker1]

Boosting your hammer at this point isn't going to help. Google "The 15 minute trigger job". I've done it to two of my ARs and works good. Some people would advise against because you cut one leg of the hammer spring and bend both trigger spring legs. The only problem I've had is misfires with mil-surp ammo, all commercial has been fine. Replacements are only a couple of bucks. Or buy JP's lighter spring kit. Also make sure you have some grease on the sear and hammer contact pionts. Ar trigger parts aren't just case hardened any more. For about $40, a guy named Springfield out of Colorado does a good job.

 

[DBR]

The stock AR trigger has a fairly deep sear engagement and like many military triggers the sear lifts the hammer before it releases.

Lighter springs can reduce the pull weight but they affect the cycling because the hammer cocking action is part of what retards the bolt. Light strikes are likely to be a problem with milspec ammo.

The only effective way to lighten the trigger pull without other compromises is to change the engagement angles so the hammer isn't lifted by the sear and reduce the sear engagement.

Do a search of AR15.com for "trigger jobs". There is a guy a lot of folks have used that does work for around $50 and seems to be well regarded. You only have to send him the parts not the whole gun. I think his name is Bill.

I put JP Rifles hammer and trigger groups in my rifles and have been very happy with them. I use stock spring weights and have pulls of about 5#. They can be setup as low as 3#.

 

[DnPRK]

RRA 2-stage for $88.00
Click and scroll to the bottom

 

[BBBBill]

...RRA 2-stage for $88.00...

I agree. Best all round deal out there. There are some better ones (pure competition gun might justify it), but much more expensive. I've installed several of these for friends. No one has been anything other than pleased with the results.