AR15 Beginner

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FlyingKiwi

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Eventually I would like to add an AR to my collection and have never owned one. My question is: where the hell do I even start? I have thrown around the idea of building one. I thought I'd start with the lower receiver and after looking at a few manufacturers websites, I dont see a bit of difference between any of them. I know Rock River, S&W, Bushmaster, Colt are great companys but only because thats what "they say". I understand the difference between Mil spec and Commercial and I guess I lean towards Mil Spec, but that could just be because it sounds cool :D So... Where do I start?
 
There are slight differences. Between mil specs its primarily in fit and finish. Rough edges and a less-than-stallar finish coating can be expected from some cheaper models.

However these days for <$100 you can get a good quality stripped lower from plenty of manufacturers.
 
AR15.com can answer all your questions.

Milspec is much more functional then looking cool. Mil spec includes dimensions, materials, finish, etc. Materials can get you in trouble. Ex, some buffer tubes are made of weaker metals and can break.

The receivers are mostly all the same as fas as milspec, the issue with receivers is the quality control.
 
Ok, I just set up a list of parts neede to complete a full AR15. Where will I have issues with compatibility?

-Hand Guard and Barrel Length?
-Mil spec vs Commercial buffer tube and Stock?

Im going to order tese parts over a long period of time and dont want to find out down the road that it doesnt all go together.
Thanks.
 
I would refer you back to Kwelz's reply. You can't go wrong there, and you can modify it as you're needs change.
 
Hand Guard and Barrel Length?

Hand guard and length of gas system, rifle, mid-length or carbine. Will you opt for the front site post or gas block? Having a FSP will limit your choice of hand guards as will having a delta ring or a free float setup. Watch some of the build videos available on Youtube.

Keep reading everything you can find and then form an opinion because you're going to get hundreds of ideas from other members.

I like BCM, Spikes and Rainier. I like mid-length gas systems and flat top uppers.

kwelz suggested the 6920, I will vote for the 6940 just because I like flat tops.
 
Are you trying to spread the cost over a period of time? And that is the reason for building? If so, follow Kwelz advice. If you like building things with reasonable abilities then build.

My advice is to buy quality parts. You have a better chance of all the parts being in spec making building easier.

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A 6920 is a flattop. A 6940 is a monolithic type upper which integrates the quad rail on the forearm and will be heavier. I'd suggest the 6920 as you can always add a quad rail if you need one, but you cannot remove the quad rail from the 6940.
 
The 6920 is - look for the knobs to remove the carry handle.

What will you do with it. What range, what target? What's pictured in the 6920 is a 5-300m infantry assault rifle, just semi auto for civilian sale. In 5.56, ammo will be cheap, but not necessarily adequate or even legal for hunting.

Not saying you can't, just pointing out what it is and isn't. It's not optimal for much in the way of hunting OR precision shooting. It's an M4gery, and in real life around the house or ranch, a lever .30-30 would suffice.

First decision - paper, live targets, or both? How much ammo for each annually? If it's a dirt blaster, stick with 5.56. Live game with a trip to the range to sight in, then a larger alternative caliber, which might be a mandatory choice.

The question "Which AR?" is answered "What range, what target?" Then the cartridge and barrel length is settled, and that specifies the gas. An A3 flattop allows any sights or optic, then the stock becomes obvious - and lots of us like fixed stocks on hunting, varmint, and long range rifles. The adjustable M4 is just the current fad - the AR15 has sold more fixed stocks, and the M16 has millions more fixed than adjustable.

Since the accuracy question was answered up front, then anything over 1MOA -hunting, dirt blasting, etc only needs common handguards. A CNC railed free float is a $300 light mount, an institutional compromise to accomodate the Army inventory of SOPMOD gear. It's not going to improve a milspec standard 2MOA issue barrel any, just keep hand or sling tension pushing it off the POI. And 2MOA is a ten inch circle at 500m, about half the size of the lethal hit zone on 150 pound live targets.

Analyze it, there really is very little return for the cost of a quadrail. Even KAC - the contract supplier - has said it's not the best choice for civilians. Why some can't accept that as an insider's honest opinion, from a knowledgeable issue supplier, I don't know. Agenda I guess.

Same for triggers - lots of noise about great triggers, but almost no documentation they can actually do any good on a 2MOA gun. What I think gets in the way is typical male enhancement therapy, I've got one and you don't. A trigger adjustment screw will do 80% of what a $250 trigger does, eliminate a lot of slack in the trigger pull, and because it doesn't scrape over it, a lot of grit, too. Most triggers sold as target models also have light pulls - which are oversold. A short, smooth 6 pound trigger has advantages in safety in the field that a 2 1/2 pound target trigger can't offer. Hunters get tired, drop guns, have them fall over, haul them up ropes into trees, etc. No place for light triggers, and the milspec standard is 6-8 pounds. Soldiers shoot each other as it is.

What range, what target? After that, there's usually just two or three that offer the particular combination, and the list of features optimum for that kind of shooting. We do the same thing buying a car - how many will we need to seat, how far will we drive, what kind of weather, what kind of road. A mom hauling her four kids to the bus stop in front of the ranch in 12" of snow during a South Dakota winter would choose a different car than a young guy commuting an hour across town in a Florida metro.

What's funny to see is either obstinately sticking to the other car when it's obvious they don't have a clue.
 
I wouldn't pay extra for the Colt 6940. I'd stick to the 6920. The 6920 is a flat top.

Whatever you do. Just get a quality AR to start with. That way you have a nice base line to learn with. Too many newbs buy a really cheap AR and then end up chasing all kinds of problems they aren't ready for. Some will even think it's normal, which IMO, is the source of much internet mythology.

Why? The 6940 rail isn't long enough. I have a 6920. I plan on cutting the front sight off and install a Larue 13" rail. I plan to cut the barrel down to 14.5" with a PWS 556 compensator pinned on. I am really big on using long rails. I like to customize my rails with specific handstops, rail covers, sling mounts, QR light mounts, flip front sight, IR illuminator, IR laser etc.etc. The heavy stuff has to have a QR lever.

You could just order any complete lower you want or can find locally. Then just order a bolt carrier group and complete upper online. Snap it all together in 30 seconds and you have a complete rifle. I prefer BCM for my uppers.


For a better rec we need to know:
Usage: range, terrain, weather, etc.
Target: people, paper, animals
Possibly Defensive use?: yes or no.

Colt is an excellent company. Also look at Noveske, BCM USA, LMT, Larue, Rainier Arms, and KAC.

Nothing wrong with Spikes, Stag, Palmetto, DD either.
 
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I agree with Zero. I had a 6940 and I traded the upper for a BCM. The monolithic Rail is a pain, the front sight is annoying and it has a proprietary barrel extension so you can't replace the barrel.
 
I would recommend the S&W M&P 15 sport. It is about $500 cheaper than the Colt, and has everything you would need for a starter AR-15. They are the best deal going on turnkey AR carbines right now if you ask me. They are a real bargain at just over $500, if you run a Google Shopping search.
 
I want to build for a few reasons, #1 I like to build things #2 I wont have the money to buy a complete rifle for some time and #3 I curently live over seas and will for about another year and hope to have a fun building project when I get home. So for now I have a lot of time to research parts and have them sent to a friend in the states (except the lower of course).

As for what range/target? I would like to find a good enough combo between long range target shooting and a defense weapon. I have pretty much been a dirt shooter all my life so it does not need to be an all-out sniper rifle. I was thinking an 18" barrel would be a good comprimise???
 
I would recommend the S&W M&P 15 sport. It is about $500 cheaper than the Colt, and has everything you would need for a starter AR-15. They are the best deal going on turnkey AR carbines right now if you ask me. They are a real bargain at just over $500, if you run a Google Shopping search.
+1
I bought one at the local hardware store for $599.00 + tax including the standard Magpul 30 rd PMag. It lacks the dust cover and forward assist, but has decent adjustable rear sight on a rail, an A-2 front sight and a medium weight barrel. For my first AR, I don't think it can be beat. After I told my buddies about it, one of them also went and got one, too. It doesn't have the chrome lined barrel, but I think it is a quality gun for the money.
 
Are you able to get AR parts overseas?

I read the rest of your post. It looks like a friend will collect the parts for you as you buy them.

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It doesn't have the chrome lined barrel, but I think it is a quality gun for the money.
The Sport does have a black nitride (Melonite) bbl. LWRC says their testing shows black nitride to be more durable than hard chrome lining in AR-15 bbls. S&W and LWRC use the same contractor for their black nitride. Since black nitride is a chemical surface hardening process the potential accuracy loss caused by adding material to the surface (as in chrome lining) isn't there. The Sport bbl is 1:8 gain twist 5R rifled, and made by T/C Arms. Time will tell, but the ingredients are there for that bbl (also used on the M&P-15T) to be one of the best on the market in terms of combined durability & accuracy.

If you find that you need the dust cover & forward assist, a new upper plus gunsmith fees to swap it out is less than $150. Add a set of heat shielded handguards for $20, and you're still easily under $800. Dustcover & FA or not, there are few sub $800 ARs that offer anywhere near the build & parts quality you get in the Sport.
 
Yup my friend will store them for me untill I get back. Also I think I could get a much higher quality rifle if I spend more time and money on each individual part. No I dont think I can get parts here. But I dont want them here anyway. Then I would just have to drag them back to the US.
 
OP - the Colt 6920 is an excellent option, and at $990 is a terrific deal. If you want a shooter that would be hard to beat.

As for building, there is so much to research. I would do searches here and at m4carbine.net and ar15.com (the former is more likely to be accurate, the latter will cover a broader range of options). Just be aware that at present time it's unlikely you can build anything significantly, if any, nicer than a Colt 6920 for less than the $990 current price of that 6920.

The Sport bbl is 1:8 gain twist 5R rifled

While I know its barrel is 1/8 twist and 5R rifled, I do not believe it is gain twist rifled. I have not seen that claim in any reliable source, only on forums. Gain twist rifling is hardly ever seen today, with the S&W X-frame revolvers (.500 S&W and .460 S&W) being the only gain twist barrels I'm aware of being made today. But if I'm wrong, I'd like to know.
 
Building one is a great way to spread the cost over a period of time. It also lets you choose the parts you want the first time. Post pics when its done.

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