Are “Corporate Safe Services” manufactured safes any good?

[Dan Forrester]

I picked up three safes manufactured by Corporate Safe Services today. I can’t find any information on the larger white ones, but found the exact specs for the small black on their web site:

http://www.corporatesafe.com/store/item.asp?ITEM_ID=13

It claims they are B rated safes. The door does appear to be ½” thick but the safe body doesn’t sound (from knocking on it) much heavier that a regular RSC. However once you own a TL15 rated safe it seems nothing can compare. From what I can guess by trying to determine the thickness of the steel in the safe’s floor bolt down holes I figured its about 1/8” thick steel in both the large white ones and the small black one.

So is this company just inflating their numbers? How would you figure this would compare to a higher end RSC like a “Sturdy Safe”? I only paid $150 for all three of them and am only thinking of putting ammo and magazines in them but might put some guns into one of them since the electronic lock is very convenient. So how do you guys think I did?

Thanks, Dan

 

[a1abdj]

For operating safes, you got a good deal. In our area, they are worth a few hundred dollars each.

They are very popular at mall and chain stores, but tend to be very entry level construction wise. Many of them do not even have simple hard plate protecting the locks. The bodies do not always have to be a full 1/4" to meet insurance standards, and so you caught another way that they cut corners.

They should be more than fine for what you're wanting to do. The other downside is that the combinations set to these safes are not always the master code which would allow you to change the combination on your own. If you do not have the master code, CSS either likes to charge way too much money for it, or not give it to you at all. We replace a lot of locks on these safes for that reason alone.

 

[Dan Forrester]

Thanks for the information on the safes. About how much is the going price to put a new electronic or dial lock into one of these? I have the combo on the two white ones but the small black safe is just 123456# so that can’t be the master code.

How would you say one of these CSS safes compares to a RSC? Is it closer to a Sam’s Club Winchester safe, or more along the lines of a Sturdy Safe? I know the door is thicker than any RSC but the safe body is disappointing. But I knew that when I bought them.

Thank you again for the information. I really appreciate it.

Dan

 

[a1abdj]

The master code can be changed, so it is possible that the 123456 code could be the master. The best way to find out is to attempt a combination change using the numbers that you have for each.

They all look to be older safes, so the combination sequence should be:

74*, existing six digit combination (assumed to be the master code)#, 1*, new six digit combination #, repeat new six digit combination #.

If the working combos you have are the master code, you will get 5 beeps after you enter the existing combination, then #. If the combos you have are not the master code, you'll get a series of multiple fast beeps, and you can go ahead and stop there.

Even though these aren't the Cadillac of B rates, they are commercial safes with UL rated locks. Against a pry or beating attack, they should hold up well. I would hate to compare them to a Sturdy, because if anything, the gun safe should be compared to the commercial unit. If the safe does not have hardplate, it would be at risk from a drill attack, but that's a fairly low risk.

 

[Dan Forrester]

Awesome! I’ve printed out this post and will give it a try this Saturday when I’m back down there. I’ve got the safes at a new house I bought a couple weeks ago.

Thanks for the help. I’ll let you know how it works out.

Dan

 

[CB900F]

Dan;

I'd also say that at $150.00 for all three you did very well. If you do need to replace an electronic lock, I'd suggest going to the LaGard Basic. It's very reliable, has external batterys, and can hold two combinations. That way if she can't remember your combo, she can have one of her own.

900F

 

[Dan Forrester]

That LaGard Basic doesn’t look too badly priced. If I need to install new locks on these safes is that something that I can do myself or do I need to get a professional? How about a biometric lock? Would any of those work with one of these safes. I’d like to turn one into a small safe I could keep my 10.5 inch AR15 with a couple spare mags in. When I leave for the day I can quickly put it in there and when my wife or I get home quickly take it back out.

Any reason why I can’t bolt one safe right on top of the other to save space and save me from bending down? I’d use 4 bolts with fender washers to bolt the safes together, then tapcons with fender washers in to the concrete foundation.

Thanks, Dan

 

[CB900F]

Dan;

I don't know your mechanical skill set. As a locksmith I'm going to suggest that you use a locksmith for the installation. I don't consider it to be too difficult, but there are some considerations that have to be addressed if the installation is to be successful.

The LaGard will have a U.L. bolt pattern, does the safe door match? If not things can get pretty hairy in a hurry. I'm going to presume the door does have the correct bolt pattern, but that's something you want to be sure of before starting. The electronic locks have a small motor in them that retracts the bolt. Therefore, if there's any bind between the bolt & the lockworks, either the motor can't provide the force to retract the bolt against the friction, or the motor burns out in fairly short order. This is also why you keep the boogerhooks off the L-handle when running the combo. If you have to do some precision filing to get the clearance, do it on the lockworks, not the bolt.

Bolting the safes together isn't a bad idea. Just use heavier bolts on the bottom to floor junction as the increased height of the assembly provides greater leverage against them.

Stay away from the biometrics.

900F

 

[Dan Forrester]

a1abdj: That combination sequence worked on the two larger safes! So I guess the old combination must be the master code. I’ll keep a copy of it in case I need it someday. Thank you so much for your help.

CB900F: I guess I’ll take that small safe into a locksmith and get the lock changed out to that LaGard basic you recommend. The combination reset didn’t work on the small safe. No big deal though. It sounds like I got a good deal on these.

Thank you both for your help!

Dan

 

[a1abdj]

The master code, and master reset code are two different things. The master reset code allows you to reboot the lock back to its factory default settings. The master code allows you to program the lock.

Since it worked, whatever you changed it to, is the new master code. The lock will only retain the one in current use. Once you program a new code, the old one is gone.

If you're going to take the other safe to a local tech, save yourself some effort. That door should lift off of its hinges. No need to haul the entire safe in.

 

[CB900F]

Dan;

Glad to help.

900F