HOME DEPOT GEORGE
Member
For a revolver why would anyone need snapcaps when you could just use empty brass. From what I've seen the little b******* are pretty expensive.
Are snapcaps really necessary?
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The Annoyed Man
Member
I've been told that they aren't necessary on modern firearms, but when you have a $800-$900 dollars in a rifle, a set of two snap caps for $8.99 seems like pretty cheap insurance. I keep one in my Remington 700.
The primers on fired brass are only going to absorb the firing-pin impact a few times before the impact-crater becomes big enough to be useless. I'd rather (and do) have the snap-caps - they last for thousands of impacts 
Edit: They're also a good training-aid for a newbie
Edit: They're also a good training-aid for a newbie
HOME DEPOT GEORGE
Member
I noticed the dimples on the brass got real deep especially on the alaskan. Are snap caps recommended for revolvers? If so I'll buy them in a second.
hexidismal
Member
Short answer.. Yes. Are they necessary ? Well perhaps not. Recommended ? Yes, always. Why not cheaply protect your investment and tool when protection is readily available. It's almost funny what people will spend on a gun, but then say $9-$12 for a set of snapcaps is too much for some insurance.
Long answer.. It depends on the revolver. Modern designs without hammer mounted firing pins are fairly well protected from any possible dry-firing damage. Older guns with hammer mounted pins can occasionally develop issues from excessive dry firing.Why not cheaply protect your investment and tool.
HOME DEPOT GEORGE
Member
Its funny how they get you at cabelas, the 45 colt snap caps are sold in packs of 5. Is there anyone else who might sell them in packs of 6.
jmt1271
Member
Doesnt S&W say they are not needed on their revolvers?
This is a never ending debate. I've read, and been told. that pretty much any quality revolver made after the mid-eighties can be dry fired without snap caps. Ruger has it in writing (in the manuals) that their revolvers can be dry fired without any damage being caused.
However I've never had anyone tell me that dry firing with Snap Caps will damage a revolver. Therefore I have purchased snap caps for my shotgun, rifles and revolvers. As a result the amount of dry firing I now do has at least quadrupled. Consequently my skill level with my DA revolvers, semi-auto handguns, rifle and shotguns have gone up.
I own an older Colt OP and Smith M&P ( pre-1950 ) and in the case of those older models the Snap Caps are essential. You absolutely should only dry fire the older models with Snap Caps.
Hope this helped.
However I've never had anyone tell me that dry firing with Snap Caps will damage a revolver. Therefore I have purchased snap caps for my shotgun, rifles and revolvers. As a result the amount of dry firing I now do has at least quadrupled. Consequently my skill level with my DA revolvers, semi-auto handguns, rifle and shotguns have gone up.
I own an older Colt OP and Smith M&P ( pre-1950 ) and in the case of those older models the Snap Caps are essential. You absolutely should only dry fire the older models with Snap Caps.
Hope this helped.
Wildfire
Member
Snap Caps.
Hey there:
The old styled revolvers had their firing pins Made onto the hammer. The later versions started making hammers that had a loose fit firing pin. One that was not part of the hammer. The old style hammers did not always tolerate dry firing. The newer styled firing pins were pinned to the hammer and would take some dry firing. The modern revolvers that have a cross bar that lays between the hammer and the firing pin no longer require snap caps. Like the Ruger. New models. Most modern manufactures have done away with the old style. Therefore eliminating the need for a snap cap.
You do not have to take my word for it. Just call the maker and ask. Most have 800 numbers. But if you plan on a lot of snapping just for the fun of it, what could it hurt to use them.
Rim fires can leave a nasty dent in that chamber that is not very easy to fix.
Hey there:
The old styled revolvers had their firing pins Made onto the hammer. The later versions started making hammers that had a loose fit firing pin. One that was not part of the hammer. The old style hammers did not always tolerate dry firing. The newer styled firing pins were pinned to the hammer and would take some dry firing. The modern revolvers that have a cross bar that lays between the hammer and the firing pin no longer require snap caps. Like the Ruger. New models. Most modern manufactures have done away with the old style. Therefore eliminating the need for a snap cap.
You do not have to take my word for it. Just call the maker and ask. Most have 800 numbers. But if you plan on a lot of snapping just for the fun of it, what could it hurt to use them.
Rim fires can leave a nasty dent in that chamber that is not very easy to fix.
steveno
Member
snaps caps in the gun also means that you can't put real ammo in the gun and keeps you from shooting the tv or other embarrassing things.
pinkymingeo
Member
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Shooting the tv sounds like a good plan.
22-rimfire
Member
It is good to avoid those embarrassing moments that we all have once in a while when we let down our guard. I always did things the same way without deviation.... load, shoot, eject empties, wipe or clean gun, and put away. The problem comes in when something happens that causes you to deviate from the norm. Danger is lurking!
Keeping snap caps in a revolver is not a bad idea except the one you use for personal protection.
Almost everytime I have locked my car keys inside my vehicle have been where I deviated with my usual routine. It happens.
I believe you can dry fire (almost) any centerfire revolver without causing any problems. The exception is the Colt Trooper Mark III or any gun using the Mark III design.
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This is nothing but my opinion from experience. Take it for what it is worth.
I do not dry fire rimfire handguns or rifles. I have personally had to repair a a springfield .22Lr/.410 shotgun Scout. The rim of the chamber of the .22 had a burr created by the firing pin that was so flared out that I could not put a round in the chamber without a lot of force. The firing pin was not damaged, and I fixed the chamber with a dremmel tool.
I dry fire the hell out of the Glocks I've used for IDPA and SEPSA matches. Probably thousands of times practicing draw-first shot on a G34 without any problem.
All of my S&W have the firing pin in the hammer. The pin, even if it did get damaged, is easily replaceable and I cannot see where there'd be any damage to the frame. I dry fire them to smooth the action hundreds if not thousands of times sitting in my easy chair (drives the wife nuts: Click! Click! Click! ...) I do the same with my Rugers, even the Single Six (my only exception to never a .22).
I'll dry fire all of the AR15s without hesitation and have not had a problem. Also the Garand and M1 Carbine I'll drop the hammer on an empty chamber and not give it a second thought. I would guess that any military firearm made in the last 75 years or so will not be harmed by dry fire exercises.
On my Good rifles, the Weatherbys, Rem 700s etc., they only get dry fired after I'm finished cleaning them and putting them in the safe to release the firing pin spring. Not sure it makes a difference, but a trusted gun smith/mentor when I was very young told me to do it so I do just because.
Not sayin' there aren't exceptions or other anecdotal stories that differ, but from my personnal experience from the last 30+ years, this is what I do.
I do not dry fire rimfire handguns or rifles. I have personally had to repair a a springfield .22Lr/.410 shotgun Scout. The rim of the chamber of the .22 had a burr created by the firing pin that was so flared out that I could not put a round in the chamber without a lot of force. The firing pin was not damaged, and I fixed the chamber with a dremmel tool.
I dry fire the hell out of the Glocks I've used for IDPA and SEPSA matches. Probably thousands of times practicing draw-first shot on a G34 without any problem.
All of my S&W have the firing pin in the hammer. The pin, even if it did get damaged, is easily replaceable and I cannot see where there'd be any damage to the frame. I dry fire them to smooth the action hundreds if not thousands of times sitting in my easy chair (drives the wife nuts: Click! Click! Click! ...) I do the same with my Rugers, even the Single Six (my only exception to never a .22).
I'll dry fire all of the AR15s without hesitation and have not had a problem. Also the Garand and M1 Carbine I'll drop the hammer on an empty chamber and not give it a second thought. I would guess that any military firearm made in the last 75 years or so will not be harmed by dry fire exercises.
On my Good rifles, the Weatherbys, Rem 700s etc., they only get dry fired after I'm finished cleaning them and putting them in the safe to release the firing pin spring. Not sure it makes a difference, but a trusted gun smith/mentor when I was very young told me to do it so I do just because.
Not sayin' there aren't exceptions or other anecdotal stories that differ, but from my personnal experience from the last 30+ years, this is what I do.
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jack the toad
Member
I personally don't use them but they're cheap so if there's any question in your mind, use 'em.
I don't intentionally dry fire my rimfires though any more than I have to.
I don't intentionally dry fire my rimfires though any more than I have to.
If you dry fire alot, even though S&W and Ruger say they're not necessary, it would probably be a good idea.
I would definitely use them for any Colt revolver. I believe that Colt manuals for the King Cobra and Python say that dry firing without them can damage or break the firing pin, which means the gun goes back to the factory.
I would definitely use them for any Colt revolver. I believe that Colt manuals for the King Cobra and Python say that dry firing without them can damage or break the firing pin, which means the gun goes back to the factory.
Colin Doyle
Member
I learned my lesson dry-firing my Taurus M85. I repaired the firing pin and bought snap caps. No problems since.
BlindJustice
Member
I'm switching the firing pin in a 1911 to a Titanium
replacement - it warns against dry firing without a Snap
Cap. Must be something about Ti. So, I ordered the
SNap Caps, 5 in .45 ACP, and 2 x 6 in .357 Mag. After
using them in my 625, I want 5 more so it will have
all 6 chambers filled. The 12 in .357 Mag fill up the 686P
7 shooter, and Mod. 60 5 shooter.
Are there any .22 LR snap caps ?
replacement - it warns against dry firing without a Snap
Cap. Must be something about Ti. So, I ordered the
SNap Caps, 5 in .45 ACP, and 2 x 6 in .357 Mag. After
using them in my 625, I want 5 more so it will have
all 6 chambers filled. The 12 in .357 Mag fill up the 686P
7 shooter, and Mod. 60 5 shooter.
Are there any .22 LR snap caps ?
possum
Member
i do thousands of dry firing drills on my guns and have no issues, everytime i am at a place that has sap caps i pick em up with the intintions of buying them and the price is crazy high and i am like no i'm good and put them back i see no real need for em.
Sport45
Member
Empty brass looks too much like live rounds when viewed from the side or back of a revolver cylinder for my taste. I dry fire all of my handguns except the .22's with empty chambers and no worries.
CAnnoneer
Member
I always use snap caps for dry firing. They are certainly cheap considering they last forever and protect hundreds of dollars of a gun.
Two points I did not see mentioned above:
1) snap caps in autoloaders help protect the extractor. I used to loose the slide on an empty magazine, and so slammed the extractor with larger force than intended with live rounds going into battery. Eventually even a Ruger extractor got damaged enough to produce FTEs. Then I wizened up.
2) snap caps in revolvers help balance the gun towards the normal loaded weight. An empty gun weighs less and has a different center of gravity, which may interfere with the mechanics of proper finger-trigger work.
Two points I did not see mentioned above:
1) snap caps in autoloaders help protect the extractor. I used to loose the slide on an empty magazine, and so slammed the extractor with larger force than intended with live rounds going into battery. Eventually even a Ruger extractor got damaged enough to produce FTEs. Then I wizened up.
2) snap caps in revolvers help balance the gun towards the normal loaded weight. An empty gun weighs less and has a different center of gravity, which may interfere with the mechanics of proper finger-trigger work.
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