MachIVshooter
Member
I had ordered one of these awhile ago, but been busy with my 1/2 scale and couldn't afford the upper right now anyway, so I hadn't got around to finishing it until today. No need to chronicle the process, as I think everyone here who cares A) knows I can do it right and B) knows what a finished lower looks like. The reason for this post is just in case anyone else has bought one and intends to finish it without a jig. There are some conflicting specs on .308 lowers, but the consensus is that the DPMS prints are what should be used. I'm going to tell you right now, do not go to town on one of these based on those numbers unless you want your selector to end up somewhere around 30* on safe and 120* on fire, and a wafer thin wall between the FCG pocket and the BHO cut - possibly even getting into the mag release bore.
Instead, what you need to do is grab a set of AR-15 prints and re-work all the numbers to be based on the selector hole. Then, find center of the selector detent hole already drilled in the 80% lower and go from there.
I imagine most folks buying these are using the jig, and I have to assume it's worked out. But for those who choose to skip the jig and do it the old fashioned way, be aware that using any of the prints that pop up on Google will leave you with a jacked up $160 lower.
Instead, what you need to do is grab a set of AR-15 prints and re-work all the numbers to be based on the selector hole. Then, find center of the selector detent hole already drilled in the 80% lower and go from there.
I imagine most folks buying these are using the jig, and I have to assume it's worked out. But for those who choose to skip the jig and do it the old fashioned way, be aware that using any of the prints that pop up on Google will leave you with a jacked up $160 lower.
